Model S phantom drain

[JimHarris]

To owners of 2016-2018 model s 75D's, I have a question.
It seems I have a lot of phantom drain, making it more expensive than a gas car since I don't drive much.
I have all the energy saving features on, yet I can park my car at 80% charge, never brink a key fob near it
over the weekend, and two days later it is at 76% charge. So basically the car loses 2% a day. That seems excessive to me
for a car that is doing nothing. In 20 days I would lose half my charge. Imagine if an ICE car lost half it's gas in 20 days.
Is this normal for my car (low mileage, perfect condition), or do I have an issue they need to fix (though they say no issue)? Also would doing the MCU1 to MCU2 upgrade give less phantom drain?

 

[ucmndd]

My 2016 S75 loses maybe 1% a day. Sometimes less, sometimes a bit more.

Have you disabled summon standby?

Regardless there is no “issue”, and they won’t fix anything. You could always do a complete power down from the settings if you know you were going to be parked for a while...

 

[murphyS90D]

Connect a smart 12 volt battery charger to the 12 volt battery and there will be no loss of charge from the HVB.
The car is loaded with microprocessors that are never turned off.
Modern ICE cars have the same problem with the 12 volt battery for the exact same reason.

 

[SO16]

Also disable sentry and quick summon (I forget exactly the term for it). That way the cameras are not on all the time.

set energy saver on.

uncheck always connected.

don’t connect to it via any app or teslafi (so it can sleep)


These are the steps I do when I’m not driving it for extended periods. Makes a difference.

 

[quickstrike12]

And in hot climates (sometimes even garages) turn off COP (cabin overheat protection).
Here in Texas outside that’s my biggest loss of energy typically in the daytime

 

[Lasttoy]

It is also keeping batteries around 68. My fan cut on when it passes 90. Your heater would be running all the winter time keeping batteries warm. I have 3 coolant pumps, coolant heater, my AC cooling system keeps batteries cool by routing the coolant thru a tiny metal radiator by the AC pump. My #2 pump went bad. It stopped my car from super charging above 50kw.
The drain is normal unless its spring or fall when temperatures are in a cool range.

 

[Lasttoy]

Here r diagrams of the coolant system

 

[moefit]

2015 85kwh. I lose about 2 to 3 percent on hot days. I keep the cabin overheat feature on, also the car is covered but outside. It's about normal.

 

[Alysashley79]

To the op
You made a comment about losing half the range over a months period of time. I have an 85kw to fill it from zero would cost me $8.50. That will get me 243 rated miles. So if you were to half that $4.25 (your battery is a bit smaller) so really what kind of ICE can you fill half way for $4.25?

for me...the longer my car sits without being touched. Without opening the app the less loss I see. In the beginning I’ll see about 1-2% a day and then after around day 4 no more drain. During covid at the beginning it sat for two weeks and lost 6% total.

 

[BrokerDon]

Connect a smart 12 volt battery charger to the 12 volt battery and there will be no loss of charge from the HVB.
The car is loaded with microprocessors that are never turned off.
Modern ICE cars have the same problem with the 12 volt battery for the exact same reason.

Our 2011 Mercedes Sprinter will drain its LARGE 12V AGM battery in 2 to 3 weeks if is not disconnected by a cable under the dash just above the accelerator. My 2006 Corvette Z06 needed to be on a trickle charger so it's 12V battery wouldn't die. Unfortunately there aren't any "energy conserving" settings on either of these ICE vehicles to keep the vehicles electronics from draining their 12V batteries... so you either need to disconnect the batteries OR use a trickle charger.

Not a "Tesla only" issue. Modern cars with electronics are rough on 12V batteries too.

 

[JimHarris]

Thanks for all the feedback. I leave all those options off. It just seems 2% of that huge battery per day is a lot (not like it is an ICE's tiny battery). I don't have cabin overheat on,, but it has been hot lately. Does the car sitting in a garage at 90F not touched run a battery cooling feature that you can't turn off? If so that would explain it.

 

[beatle]

I lose about 2kwh/day while sitting in my garage and charging to 75% so the coolant pumps don't need to run. That's about 3% total per day. I could probably cut that down by not using TeslaFi and allowing the car to sleep, but I don't like the lag when waking up or missing part of my drive. Not a big deal to me.

 

[CraigE1965]

@beatle, do the coolant pumps run if you are charged to 70 or 80 percent and NOT plugged in?

 

[Grant]

Also disable sentry and quick summon (I forget exactly the term for it). That way the cameras are not on all the time.

set energy saver on.

uncheck always connected.

don’t connect to it via any app or teslafi (so it can sleep)


These are the steps I do when I’m not driving it for extended periods. Makes a difference.

What this person said. Mine went from losing 5 miles per day to about 1 mile per day once I changed energy saver to on and always connected to off.

 

[AjrUleZ]

Same here S75 1% a day.

 

[beatle]

@beatle, do the coolant pumps run if you are charged to 70 or 80 percent and NOT plugged in?

70 percent, no. 80 percent, yes - well, I know 82-83% they run. They did when I drove to work a few months ago.

 

[Lasttoy]

Craig, if it's hot or cold, yes your system will run to keep the battery at a 70 degrees. U would only know if u take frunk out and touch the pumps. I used a digital thermometer to ck the coolant temps. I drove around for month with frunk out to test the system.
I have 3 pumps. New cars only have 2 pumps.

 

[JimHarris]

Well now this is making sense. I lose 2% a day in winter and summer ranges from 30F to 90F. And in spring and fall I only lose 1% a day, so it must be the coolant pump working even when not plugged in or being driven.
Thanks

 

[ucmndd]

Well now this is making sense. I lose 2% a day in winter and summer ranges from 30F to 90F. And in spring and fall I only lose 1% a day, so it must be the coolant pump working even when not plugged in or being driven.
Thanks

Unfortunately all of the sidebar conversation in your thread about extended coolant pump runtimes is completely irrelevant to your 75kwh battery. It’s related to a condition that is currently exclusively (or nearly exclusively) related to older 85kwh cars.

You’d know if the coolant pump was running all the time. You can hear it pretty easily.

 

[Lasttoy]

Pardon me. These pumps make zero noise, the fans running are what u hear. Take your frunk out. U have 2 pumps, 400 volt AC compressor. 400 volt coolant heater. You have 2 coolant fans , one on each side behind the doors. U have air compressor , 3 diverter valves. The only part that makes noise are the fans, 2 of them. Ck out all of the parts in the frunk. Buy a digital thermometer and check the coolant temperatures. The system must maintain coolant temperature within a range, even as u sleep. It was over 90 here this week. When I stopped at a store and got out, both pumps were running, AC compressor was on, trying to get battery temperature down. Battery coolant temperatures are very critical to the longevity of our packs. Look at the diagram. One heating ,, other cooling.
Also, my number 2 pump was bad, it stopped system from fully super charging, Tesla said it needed to keep pack cool during super charging. I could start off at 50. I changed pump and system allowed me to resume my normal rate of charge.
My pack is 8 yrs old and seems to be holding up ok according to Teslafi .