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Model S Refresh Mud/Splash Guards
- Thread starter DJ-3
- Start date
Thanks! Don’t waste your time for now let me first see if the laser can cut this without melting it or smoking the entire neighborhood. Will check tomorrow after I get it and report. Also what about the thermal bending part - is that necessary or just a flat cutout works too?
derichio02
Member
Have you ever thought of using biting clips like these rather than the bolt / clamp. They bite the inner fender and outside of the flap
ZL1 Addons Rock Guard Replacement Clips
Many of our rock guards utilize a custom mounting clip for primary support or secondary support. Sometimes accidents, automated car washes or improper installation can cause these to vanish from your vehicle. This product offering is for a set of replacement clips. Some models like the...
zl1addons.com
M4H4X
Member
Flat works up front, rear must have a bend.
Also ABS emits some pretty toxic vapors when melted -- make sure you have good ventilation setup for that.
M4H4X
Member
They will remove paint. But they will work.Have you ever thought of using biting clips like these rather than the bolt / clamp. They bite the inner fender and outside of the flap
ZL1 Addons Rock Guard Replacement Clips
Many of our rock guards utilize a custom mounting clip for primary support or secondary support. Sometimes accidents, automated car washes or improper installation can cause these to vanish from your vehicle. This product offering is for a set of replacement clips. Some models like the...
M4H4X
Member
Scroll saw works wonders -- but I ran out of plastic. More on order to arrive Monday. Then I can finalize the front templates.
Spyderman09
'22 Model S Plaid - Black/Black/CF
Pretty awesome to see this come to life. Thanks for bringing us along!
M4H4X
Member
For the C-Clips I used 1/4”x20 U-Type Body Fastners (M6 1.0 will work too).
For the corresponding bolts I took 1/4” 20 1/2” Bolts and trimmed them down to about 5.5-6.5mm and also trimmed the neck of the U bolt so it would not exceed the thickness of the material. I then added 2 flat washers to the bolt head.
The reason the bolt has to be shortened is so it does not stick into the inner portion of the c clip which will scratch the fender.
This is not optimal, I’m up for better suggestions.
I would like a better bolt/fastener, but the C Clip must stay unless you want to drill, have to slot/thermoform the plastic (hard), or permanently damage your bumper/fender (aggressive clips with teeth).
This fastener BARES NO LOAD. It is simply there to keep the neck of the flap firm against the fender and orient the flap.
M4H4X
Member
As for the nylon, up front I’m using 2 different fasteners, an 8.7mm fastener that replaces the factory fastener on the corner, and an 8.6mm fastener that goes in the drilled hole. Could probably use the 8.7mm on both.
The back uses 2 of the 8.7mm fasteners; however, there is a LOT of stress on the fastener closest to the center of the car (inner). Thinking about switching this out with the Push “Tree” style fasteners.
The very top of the flaps have small squares of VHB 3M tape where they contact the fender (to prevent movement/scratching/creeking).
The front flaps also have 2 additional squares of tape on the rocker panel where the flap contacts it.
Then there is 20mils of Llumar PPF (1” squares) where the C-Clip contacts the painted surface of the bumper/fender to prevent paint wear.
The back uses 2 of the 8.7mm fasteners; however, there is a LOT of stress on the fastener closest to the center of the car (inner). Thinking about switching this out with the Push “Tree” style fasteners.
The very top of the flaps have small squares of VHB 3M tape where they contact the fender (to prevent movement/scratching/creeking).
The front flaps also have 2 additional squares of tape on the rocker panel where the flap contacts it.
Then there is 20mils of Llumar PPF (1” squares) where the C-Clip contacts the painted surface of the bumper/fender to prevent paint wear.
M4H4X
Member
Material costs to produce a set of 4 flaps is roughly $40. Most of that is the plastic.
Takes roughly 1.5-2hr to cut 1 set of 4 (Straight lines by hand, corners with scroll saw, a lot of edge sanding, drilling, and thermoforming the curve in the rears.
There is no way I could charge what my time is worth on these—so I will lose on each set I produce, but I’m just going to do a limited run for fellow S owners so we can all make it through the winter until someone in China decides to fire up a factory for us.
So my plan for now is this:
I will publish the templates as promised and instructions on how to produce your own.
I will do a limited run (10 sets or so, made to order) for forum members who don’t have the tools or time to make their own.
More to follow in a few days.
Takes roughly 1.5-2hr to cut 1 set of 4 (Straight lines by hand, corners with scroll saw, a lot of edge sanding, drilling, and thermoforming the curve in the rears.
There is no way I could charge what my time is worth on these—so I will lose on each set I produce, but I’m just going to do a limited run for fellow S owners so we can all make it through the winter until someone in China decides to fire up a factory for us.
So my plan for now is this:
I will publish the templates as promised and instructions on how to produce your own.
I will do a limited run (10 sets or so, made to order) for forum members who don’t have the tools or time to make their own.
More to follow in a few days.
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
You are a man among men. What an incredible thing to watch come along. Bravo!
M4H4X
Member
Went through some heavy stuff this morning. Flaps are doing their job.
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
M4H4X
Member
New fastener solution. Puts much less stress on the car. (Road testing now)
1” 10/32 Well Nuts, 2x Wide Washer, 1.5” 10/32 Hex Bolt
Here is how the rear are installed:
Video Link (YouTube)
Front install video coming later this week—-hopefully with a game plan for orders and the templates.
1” 10/32 Well Nuts, 2x Wide Washer, 1.5” 10/32 Hex Bolt
Here is how the rear are installed:
Video Link (YouTube)
Front install video coming later this week—-hopefully with a game plan for orders and the templates.
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
I'm in, will pay the total for materiel, labor and freight.
Awesome work my friend!!
This is incredible work! Please count me in for a set as well. Will gladly pay for this setup!
M4H4X
Member
One small change coming this week.
I’m eliminating the need for the c clip on all 4 panels.
Replacing with an integrated/thermoformed ABS clip molded right into the flap. So 1 less bolt (only 2 per flap now), and now the only painted portion of the car that the flap touches will be with a wide soft plastic vs a small hard clip.
Reallly rough approximation of what I’m talking about here on a scrap test piece (final product will look much better)
Edit: This will also lower material costs by eliminating 4 bolts, 8 washers, and 4 c-clips (u-bolts).
Double Edit: This will also speed up production time as no fabricating of bolt length and c clip metal neck length needed.
I’m eliminating the need for the c clip on all 4 panels.
Replacing with an integrated/thermoformed ABS clip molded right into the flap. So 1 less bolt (only 2 per flap now), and now the only painted portion of the car that the flap touches will be with a wide soft plastic vs a small hard clip.
Reallly rough approximation of what I’m talking about here on a scrap test piece (final product will look much better)
Edit: This will also lower material costs by eliminating 4 bolts, 8 washers, and 4 c-clips (u-bolts).
Double Edit: This will also speed up production time as no fabricating of bolt length and c clip metal neck length needed.
Last edited:
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