Model Y lift gate sticky issue

[kylinblue]

If I didn’t get rear ended a year ago and had it repaired by third party, I wouldn’t be hesitant right now to contact support for a warranty repair…
About a year ago my Y was rear ended. No significant damage but had to have it repaired by a third party body shop, certified location. They replaced the lift gate, some rear bumper panels.
However I’m starting to notice the rear lift gate doesn’t open normally on its own anymore. 90% of the times it will need a second try.
My concern would be, since the third party repair shop has touched this damaged vehicle before, is Tesla not going to help me? I wouldn’t have too much problem paying out of pocket for a mobile service tech to take a look at it and repair but I’m just worried that they will refuse service or something. AND… I relocated so that original body shop is now hundreds of miles away, I prefer not to go back to them if possible.

 

[Yelobird]

If your asking will they refuse service the answer would be no. If your asking will they do it for free, likely no.

 

[kylinblue]

If your asking will they refuse service the answer would be no. If your asking will they do it for free, likely no.

Excellent summary of what I'm asking. Don't know what I was thinking when I typed all that extra info.

 

[YW555]

When you move the hatch manually do you feel any unusual resistance? Inspect the hinge to see if there's any misalignment. There are 3 possible parts that can malfunction. The hinge, latch or power struts.

 

[Fourdoor]

Similar situation for me, mine operates smoothly by hand when I assist it in opening, and the latch operates normally. Seems like I have a weak power strut or the passive strut is worn out... in either case, an undamaged part shouldn't be a problem for a warranty replacement... but we are talking about Tesla here, so I will probably have to pay. Any company that wants a good customer experience would replace the faulty part under warranty, but Tesla seems to not give a flip about customer experience, and they know we are not going to lawyer up and force them to do the replacement under warranty.

Keith

 

[Brian-MS90D]

This happens for me too! Perhaps not for the same reason, but perhaps 30% of the time the rear hatch unlocks to open but it's as if the rubber seals keep it in position. If I assist it by hand, you can really hear the sound of the seals losing their suction grip.

I've just always assumed it was a reality of the position, size, and weight of the hatch verse affordable / available power strut. I believe most hatches are more of a traditional SUV version with a straighter vertical orientation that is probably easier to open.

For me it's a minor inconvenience and I personally never open the rear hatch without me there to use my hand on the button. I thought I would add my experience for the OP because at least in my experience it is not from an accident.

 

[Yelobird]

Door gaskets can get sticky or dried out (stiff) over time creating a grab. Apply a light oil to the gaskets (even vegetable oil on a paper towel) and it will likely soften up.

 

[kylinblue]

When you move the hatch manually do you feel any unusual resistance? Inspect the hinge to see if there's any misalignment. There are 3 possible parts that can malfunction. The hinge, latch or power struts.

No. I think it was just sticky rubber. I adjusted the four rubber bumpers very slightly today to see if that will help. Things are smooth so far and I’ll see after I leave it sit for 24 hours if it will get stuck again.

 

[dolfs]

This has been happening to my Mar 2021 MYLR, and I have had no damage or repairs in the area. First time around, mobile service replaced the power strut. The problem did go away for quite some time, but eventually recurred. So, more recently, about 1.5 months ago I had them come out again. This time they replaced both struts. Problem went away for... 3 weeks. Now it happens again. (BTW. Both times $0.00 charge).

It is unpredictable when. Hot, cold, recently driven, or parked overnight. I'll have to look into the the greasing the seals approach, because the struts replacement does not seem to do the trick.

 

[Fourdoor]

This happens for me too! Perhaps not for the same reason, but perhaps 30% of the time the rear hatch unlocks to open but it's as if the rubber seals keep it in position. If I assist it by hand, you can really hear the sound of the seals losing their suction grip.

I've just always assumed it was a reality of the position, size, and weight of the hatch verse affordable / available power strut. I believe most hatches are more of a traditional SUV version with a straighter vertical orientation that is probably easier to open.

For me it's a minor inconvenience and I personally never open the rear hatch without me there to use my hand on the button. I thought I would add my experience for the OP because at least in my experience it is not from an accident.

Mine was fine for 35,000+ miles, but "normal" hatch struts on other cars wear out over time, why would Tesla be any different? I suspect that one strut or the other has lost strength over time and now doesn't have the "umph" needed to pull the hatch off of the seal at the initial opening of the day. With mine it is only a problem the first time the hatch is opened after sitting for a day or so. I am close to the end of the bumper to bumper warranty, and that is when things like this fail... either right before or right after the warranty expires

Keith

 

[L1011]

Found this thread as I've got a March 2021 build that also has been having this problem and I think I may have had my big break in getting this fixed after four service appointments. The door opens maybe a quarter inch before it gives up, lowers the door back home, and the latch actuates to close it back up.

It's been in for multiple attempts to fix it:

• First they just adjusted the strike plate to make sure the latch was operating right
• When that didn't fix it, mobile service came out and replaced the latch on the door.
• Next in another appointment they replaced the power struts. They told me they still couldn't reproduce the problem and next time come back with timestamps for when it happened.

I just got back from the service center, this time having opened a case with some timestamps. The service rep told me that the hatch is too heavy and needs replacement; supposedly there is a known issue with certain VINs where there were stamping defects in the production of the rear hatch. Made another appointment where they will sublet all the work out to a body shop and get me a loaner.

Hopefully this will solve it for good, since the hatch is pretty much the only other moving part involved that we haven't replaced already.

 

[C-Bus Y]

I am having this same issue since new. Even had a new hatch installed due to an accident and it still happens. It seems as if the door seals are sticking as mentioned above. Will try some light oil on the seals at some point, or maybe armor all.

 

[DanDi58]

I had the same issue, without the rear-ending. Mobile tech came and replaced the pistons, which he said is a common problem. All good now. It's not the seals, it's the pistons.

 

[Fourdoor]

I am having this same issue since new. Even had a new hatch installed due to an accident and it still happens. It seems as if the door seals are sticking as mentioned above. Will try some light oil on the seals at some point, or maybe armor all.

Silicone spray didn't seem to work for me, Armor all is a great idea!

Keith

 

[chan_man]

I had the same problem with intermittent sticking, looked at the same things like struts, alignment etc. Finally looked at the seals, went and put a thin film of silicone grease that I had from many years ago, used it on door seals on my other vehicles. Had not had a sticking incident for more than 6 months. Here is a link to what i used.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/american-grease-stick-co.-sil-glyde-silicone-lubricant-tube-4-oz.-sg-4/10607939-P