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Model Y Suspension and Ride Comfort Options

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I did the Tein shocks on just the rear of the 2020 Model Y, and lowered the PSI to 36 PSI. Wow, it's finally an acceptable ride now. Night and day different. My Tein shocks are set at 1/4 of max stiffness (set with 12 counterclockwise clicks from the max clockwise setting). The total cost was around $330 and the DIY was easy.

Where/how to get the rear Tein shocks only?
 
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Where/how to get the rear Tein shocks only?

I think this company decided to stop selling the rear only because it was very bad for profitability. Of course, they don't say that. Instead they insinuate that your Tesla will do a backflip and leap off a cliff if you only do the rear. I have yet to die by just doing the rear, so they may be exaggerating.

 
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I think this company decided to stop selling the rear only because it was very bad for profitability. Of course, they don't say that. Instead they insinuate that your Tesla will do a backflip and leap off a cliff if you only do the rear. I have yet to die by just doing the rear, so they may be exaggerating.

Well, I think besides the profitability aspect, I would imagine a majority of the customer purchasing a set of adjustable shocks would buy them as a complete set.

It could also be that Tein doesn't sell them separately, and then it would be extremely difficult for vendor to separate them out to sell them individually. They could end up with 2 fronts that no one is buying.

Of course, all a guess from my part.

Or maybe share where you can purchase just a rear set so other member can benefit from your purchasing experience.
 
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Well, I think besides the profitability aspect, I would imagine a majority of the customer purchasing a set of adjustable shocks would buy them as a complete set.

It could also be that Tein doesn't sell them separately, and then it would be extremely difficult for vendor to separate them out to sell them individually. They could end up with 2 fronts that no one is buying.

Of course, all a guess from my part.

Or maybe share where you can purchase just a rear set so other member can benefit from your purchasing experience.

Or maybe did share the company that sold me just the rear and you missed it.
 
Ditto that. If that is Gjeebs, your videos are hysterical in the best way (also very informative).

Good info in this thread and a massive amount of additional opinions and information can be found within this site in other threads. Tire pressure 36-38 is best for comfort and I've run 19's, 20's and 21's they all feel pretty similar to me in that psi range and as long as you have about 4.5" of sidewall. I am on MPP adjustable Comforts and a few of my thoughts can be found here:

Post in thread 'Model Y Suspension Suggestions' Model Y Suspension Suggestions
 
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THIS JUST IN!

For those interested in NOT lowering your Model 3/Y, we now have DAMPER ONLY versions of our FPX and Redwood-Ohlins Long-Stroke kits! These include front spring adapters, instead of front and rear replacement springs, in order to reuse your factory springs in conjunction with the benefits of our custom Redwood-Ohlins and Redwood-FPX adjustable Grand Touring (GT) dampers - for a more affordable price, and more affordable install as it takes less labor to install and setup (no front spring height adjustment, and no removal of the rear spring). Since these use the same components from our FPX and Ohlins Long-Stroke kits, they can also be *upgraded* to full coilovers at a later date!

In addition, all kits (including full coilover kits) come with our *new and improved* one piece FULLY FORGED lower forks - stronger, and lighter than our previous version!







 
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So here's what you're looking at.
Tire pressure alone isn't going to accomplish much but make you feel like you're doing something.
I'll provide more info in the coming day or two, but adding sidewall is a definite improvement. Takes a lot of the jiggle out of the system.

Today I mounted a set of BFG Terra-Terrain 255/55/18 on an 18" Model 3 Aero wheelset and threw them on my MYLR.
Note these are 18, not 19" tires, and you have 19" Gemini wheels. Which I have also, but I chose to get another wheelset because I want mostly to run the Gemini's.
I may re-think that, as the new BFG's definitely smooth things out. Even though they're over-inflated - 46 psi from the shop install right now.
And they're All Terrain tires, not known to be quiet or smooth riding !!!! But they are. I can barely tell any difference, and wouldn't if not listening hard.

A 255/50/19 would provide a very similar tire dimension to what I mounted today - 1/2" less sidewall, but same width and diameter.
And that added sidewall seems to make a substantial difference. You can look at the attachment for the dimensional comparison, and go to that website to play with numbers.
You'll find that going to a wider tire will also get more sidewall, but....the 255/55/18 has just 1/8" clearance at full lock.
Full lock is rarely ever done, and certainly not at speed (Full lock is the steering wheel turned all the way in one direction). But you shouldn't get a 29" diameter tire wider than 10".

In summary, I would suggest that when you wear out your OEM tires (or they wear you out), pick a replacement set that's 255/50/19. Whatever brand you prefer.
Net cost is the tires....maybe $800-1000. You're in the Carolinas so I'm not sure you do snow tires, but that's a thought too. Try that size in snows.
BTW, the BFG's I mounted are 3-Peak Mountain snow-rated too.
Costs - $212 at America's Tire (Discount Tire Shops nationally), and the Aero wheels net cost me $100 each. Unfortunately, the shop demanded I get TPMS sensors - 75 each.

Critical dimension guides:
1. Steering knuckle (ball joint centered above the tire on the upper wishbone) is the diameter limiter. You must not rub on that. The 29" tire has 3/8 clearance - very good.
2. Full lock steering wheel rotation provides the width limit info - you don't want to rub the wheel well. The 29" x 10" tire has 1/8" clearance at full lock - good enough.
3. Wheel (rim) width (not diameter) should be compatible with the tire width. Tire specs will guide what wheel size is applicable, +/- 1/2 inch is okay.
4. Wheel offset needs to be compatible with the suspension. This is a bit more nuanced, but if you use the factory wheels, you're good.
5. Any wheel you use must provide clearance for the brake calipers (the M3 18" Aero wheelset does NOT clear the bigger MYP brake calipers).

Finally
I'll check in after a couple more days playing with this setup. But
- I've already run thru severe roadway dips (rain troughs) that used to bounce me like hell. Not any more...
- I've run smooth pavement, looking for increased noise. Nope !!
- I've run uneven pavement, and the jangling has become muted.

There are limits to the MYLR chassis that only a longer wheelbase would help.
There are limits to what the stock dampers / springs can achieve, which can only be improved via UPP, MPP, Redwood suspension kits costing $3-5K.
So taller tires with more sidewall are, so far, looking like a very good approach to the problem.
Wow. Just wow.

Holy crap this is a detailed and informative post. I'm so glad I took the time to search and do some research before I made the plunge, as I'm another tire-newbie.

I do have a hypothetical question. Here's the context, MYLR, wheels. Not OEM Tesla wheels. 18x8. Imagine a 235/60/18 tire on it. When checking tire comparison calculator it puts the total outside diameter at 29.3" so I'm cutting it close, apparently. But my logic was with the smaller width wheel, and the 235/60/18 form factor there would actually be some extra wiggle room to help it clear the inside knuckle.

Thoughts? Would that setup work?

Falken wildpeak at trail if it matters
 
Wow. Just wow.

Holy crap this is a detailed and informative post. I'm so glad I took the time to search and do some research before I made the plunge, as I'm another tire-newbie.

I do have a hypothetical question. Here's the context, MYLR, wheels. Not OEM Tesla wheels. 18x8. Imagine a 235/60/18 tire on it. When checking tire comparison calculator it puts the total outside diameter at 29.3" so I'm cutting it close, apparently. But my logic was with the smaller width wheel, and the 235/60/18 form factor there would actually be some extra wiggle room to help it clear the inside knuckle.

Thoughts? Would that setup work?

Falken wildpeak at trail if it matters
clearance from the knuckle is more about diameter than width.
however, it's important to know what that aftermarket 18x8 wheel OFFSET is - ie, what the rim edge to vertical centerline is. look it up.

to make it more simple, you might do what I did.
do your research and see what the difference in offset, etc is versus factory OEM 18" wheel (using the Model 3 Aero wheel).
then, if it looks like it will work, go to the local tire shop and buy ONE tire to test it. If it fits, buy all FOUR. If not, you're out one tire unless the shop grants a pass.
 
clearance from the knuckle is more about diameter than width.
however, it's important to know what that aftermarket 18x8 wheel OFFSET is - ie, what the rim edge to vertical centerline is. look it up.

to make it more simple, you might do what I did.
do your research and see what the difference in offset, etc is versus factory OEM 18" wheel (using the Model 3 Aero wheel).
then, if it looks like it will work, go to the local tire shop and buy ONE tire to test it. If it fits, buy all FOUR. If not, you're out one tire unless the shop grants a pass.
I'm familiar with offset. OEM offset on 19" Geminis is 45 mm, the various wheels I was looking at are either 45 or 40, so it's been a goal during my search to keep it close to the OEM 45. I haven't done the comparison to OEM 18" wheels though, as my MYLR has 19s. But good point, I can try to double check how everything would fit with the wheels I'm looking at based on their offset instead of wheel width.

Good idea about buying one tire and just trying it for fitment. There's only so much a tire size calculator can tell me online.
 
I'm familiar with offset. OEM offset on 19" Geminis is 45 mm, the various wheels I was looking at are either 45 or 40, so it's been a goal during my search to keep it close to the OEM 45. I haven't done the comparison to OEM 18" wheels though, as my MYLR has 19s. But good point, I can try to double check how everything would fit with the wheels I'm looking at based on their offset instead of wheel width.

Good idea about buying one tire and just trying it for fitment. There's only so much a tire size calculator can tell me online.
don't forget the lock to lock test to make sure there's fender liner clearance.
my 255/55/18 Goodyear Trail Terrain tire on Model 3 Aero wheel showed about 1/2" clearance in static lock to lock, but in real use rubs a 1" square patch on the front liners.
NBD but good to know.
 
don't forget the lock to lock test to make sure there's fender liner clearance.
my 255/55/18 Goodyear Trail Terrain tire on Model 3 Aero wheel showed about 1/2" clearance in static lock to lock, but in real use rubs a 1" square patch on the front liners.
NBD but good to know.
Lock to lock test, gotcha. I'll be googling it. Appreciate the time you're taking to answer.

Any other insights in the process of transitioning from stock 19" to aftermarket 18? In another thread somewhere else (lifted model y owner thread, maybe) someone was mentioning the absolute outside diameter max of the tires was 29.6" but I don't know why my brain is so focused on that as an actual real world fact. Any insights into total outside tire diameter limits?