So does this twenty clicks also apply to the sport coilover set? And do they have the same Max opening at 14 clicks back from Full stiff? Thanks!
Haha, I like my job so I am not going to answer the first question.
Interesting. I had no idea that that was true. So ballpark if you have the shocks set at like 10 / 8 which means you are a 4/6 clicks from essentially being full soft, what is the relative stiffness and resistance to movement compared with full soft? Obviously. Full soft is still oscillation dampening, don't want you guys to reveal proprietary information but I'm just curious what my seat of the pants impression correlates with in terms of actual resistance to movement between those settings.
Interesting, I haven't experienced the clunking sound at 14 all around, but I'll try to pay better attention next time. Might be because I got these installed when the weather was already around freezing temp, maybe it'll soften up in warmer weather. So are you set at 12 compression and 14 rebound, for both front and rear?
I went with 12/14 all around, then settled on 12/12 all around. Been that way now for many months now, rides fine for me. 12/14 felt a little disconnected, like the car is almost floating-when I hit speed bumps at a certain speed it feels like the car wants to *hop* off the top of the bump.
You don't have to torque it anywhere near spec to get it to hold. That's somebody who didn't even put the nut on or put it on by hand and never torqued it
Very unlikely that the forces applied to that bolt are enough to bend it since it is the lever in a sense the controls camber and the forces applied to that are not huge. Bending it would require tens of thousands of pounds but it is much more likely that the threaded end is partially stripped out/the threads are severely abraded and it may be difficult to get a proper nut on it but that would be easy to determine. It's more likely that the spherical bushing may have sustained enough torque to damage it but even that would require an awful lot of force.
I understand the torque specs on the nut since the MPP installation instructions lists the procedure, just looking for the size on the nut and bolt. I'll have to order from Tesla. I was looking to get it so I can fix it this weekend, but doesn't appear anyone knows the specs on the hardware.
That is an interesting way to approach that problem. What I did (and probably many do) is remove the entire top piece (four bolts total) and disassemble the shock parts after that assembly is taken out. I never thought about removing the black fork from from the KW shock, as that is what it sounds like you did.
100% agree. You're always going to get better service from tuning shops than dealing with larger manufacturers. This is what is makes part of the overall value of the kit, rather than shopping for coilovers at the cheapest price.
I followed your excellent write-up as a basis for what I did, particularly making sure to remove the four bolt plate. That was the piece I struggled to get in/out because of the wheel well lining. (Not blaming you for my struggles!
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I had zero issues with the wheel well lining, and now that you mentioned it, I wonder if there's a wheel well lining difference between the model years? Tesla makes a bajillion changes between the months (weeks) of production and people really don't know or find out until long after they own the car. This could be one of those changes.I struggled to get in/out because of the wheel well lining. (Not blaming you for my struggles!
