My Enelx Juicebox died. Questions on warranty turnaround and slow L1

[sethinGR]

After 2 years and two months, my Juicebox 48A died on Thanksgiving (one beep error code, then after a restart a two beep error code, tech said "Diode check failed") Did the "accelerated warranty replacement" option, so now am waiting for a tracking number. Anyone know how fast they are at sending our replacements?

So back to L1 at home until then, and L1 is only going at 6A (starts at 9A then drops to 6A/5A after short while). Forum search says voltage fluctuations will cause a current rollback, I wondered if the furnace blower starting would do it?

I know the circuit is not dedicated, but there isn't really anything else drawing power from it. I had the "don't try this at home kids" idea of using the 120v 30A adapter I got for car camping and making a short adapter cable from 15A to 30A and using that to tell the car "its 30A, but use 15A" and override and see what happens (CB is 20A). I'm just a bit annoyed at the 6A.

edit: in case anyone is wondering, the Juicebox is hardwired, and I could change it to be a NEMA 14-50 temporarily and use the 14-50 mobile adapter but not really wanting to go through the hassle

 

[beatle]

A 5-15P adapter on your UMC should start you at 12A and then drop to 9A if the voltage drops significantly. I'd unplug and make sure your charging amps on the car's screen are set to 12A. If it's already dropping at 9A, however, it's likely to drop from 12A as well, but you should at least end up at 9A. Since the circuit isn't dedicated, it is probably dropping voltage from the collective resistance on one or more of the junction points at the other outlets on the circuit.

Your furnace blower shouldn't affect the voltage on a different circuit. Blowers don't draw that much relative to a microwave, toaster, hair dryer, or space heater. It would be easy to check to see the effect of other appliances' use on the voltage you get at the car. Just turn one on and monitor the voltage on the car.

 

[sethinGR]

A 5-15P adapter on your UMC should start you at 12A and then drop to 9A if the voltage drops significantly. I'd unplug and make sure your charging amps on the car's screen are set to 12A. If it's already dropping at 9A, however, it's likely to drop from 12A as well, but you should at least end up at 9A. Since the circuit isn't dedicated, it is probably dropping voltage from the collective resistance on one or more of the junction points at the other outlets on the circuit.

Your furnace blower shouldn't affect the voltage on a different circuit. Blowers don't draw that much relative to a microwave, toaster, hair dryer, or space heater. It would be easy to check to see the effect of other appliances' use on the voltage you get at the car. Just turn one on and monitor the voltage on the car.

You are right. I checked the receptacle voltage with and without the charging load, and it dropped from 121v to 114v at 7A. The garage is 80ft from the service entrance, but as you say, it has to be the receptacle daisy chains that are adding resistance, b/c 80 ft of 12GA at 7A is not 7v.

 

[sethinGR]

And to wrap my findings:
The outlets in the garage which gave 5/6A are on the (original) GFCI circuit, which has a 15A breaker and goes all around the house. (house built in 1986)
Another outlet in hall from the garage gives me 8A.
And a new circuit in the basement right below the garage hallway gives the full 12A even with a long extension cord, at 12A it is dropping 3V at the receptacle.

 

[Supcom]

And to wrap my findings:
The outlets in the garage which gave 5/6A are on the (original) GFCI circuit, which has a 15A breaker and goes all around the house. (house built in 1986)
Another outlet in hall from the garage gives me 8A.
And a new circuit in the basement right below the garage hallway gives the full 12A even with a long extension cord, at 12A it is dropping 3V at the receptacle.

Your mobile connector may be trying to tell you that you have a bad outlet that needs attention.

If you are getting significant voltage drop that does not appear to be due to the wire alone, it would be a good idea to check the outlet connections for this circuit. If they were installed using the quick push in terminals, you might consider replacing them using the screw terminal connections instead.

I replaced almost all the outlets in my house after one of the original outlets, installed using push in terminals, became intermittent. It was scary how many wires simply pulled free of the outlets.

 

[sethinGR]

I'm going to make a few more posts on this thread as my situation continues:
It turns out the Enelx may not be bad after all. A few days after this post I was continuing to charge L1 using the UMC and got a CP_a151 error on the car after disconnecting one morning. That error states that L1/L2 charging with non-Tesla or older Tesla equipment won't work. And that proved to be the case, I tried the car at another non-Tesla L2 and no charge, but the UMC keeps working.

I got my replacement JuiceBox but probably don't need it, I will be able to answer that next week after the car is serviced.

The Enelx troubleshooting process asked me to charge at another L2 location, but I blew that off, as I thought the UMC was basically equivalent. But now I know that Tesla EVSEs must use a different type of comms / checks than the std. The troubleshooting could have made that more clear (like you must test with another non Tesla EVSE)

 

[sethinGR]

and to wrap this up:

Telsa replaced the charging ECU. As a nice side effect now I have CCS DC fast charge ability.

I can charge fine on the Enelx EVSE so likely I will send the replacement unit they sent me back to them unopened. It is a shame the Tesla didn't throw any sort of error for several days which led to much confusion.