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My Model 3 Audio SQ Build Log (Helix, Audiofrog, HAT)

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I learned by lesson too. Always do the proper shut down! Those warnings freaked me out the first time around!
So, just to be clear , it looks like your amp/xover power comes from the regular 12 battery not the main car's battery like Travis (guy who hook his audio equipment via the "penthouse" 12v under the seat). I am assuming that if you were to do that (use the penthouse main battery) then you need to create a relay/resistor combo? Otherwise, the easiest way (which I like easy) for power is directly connecting to the 12v regular battery, correct (do a proper shutdown first before connecting)? Thank you.
 
You thread from shows a connection to the 12V battery. Was there any issue(s) with hooking up to the 12V battery? Another guy hook up his amps to the car's main battery (under the rear seat of his model 3). I'm trying to figure out the best way for power connection.
So I've actually done both methods of powering things, but I've pretty much refused to do the resistor/relay due to safety concerns. I don't like having a part that's sitting there always on emitting heat, and if fails causes a fire. Resistors have a tendency to go up in flames.. not a risk I wanted to take.

The penthouse itself is fine if you have amps that don't have a lot of internal capacitance, like my Helix V Eight was fine. The M one, was not.

I've run everything off the 12V battery under the hood now for months with absolutely zero issues. I personally think its a good solution. In fact, my next goal is honestly to move the amps to the frunk. There's a lot of advantages to that.. shorter wires for everything!
 
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So I've actually done both methods of powering things, but I've pretty much refused to do the resistor/relay due to safety concerns. I don't like having a part that's sitting there always on emitting heat, and if fails causes a fire. Resistors have a tendency to go up in flames.. not a risk I wanted to take.

The penthouse itself is fine if you have amps that don't have a lot of internal capacitance, like my Helix V Eight was fine. The M one, was not.

I've run everything off the 12V battery under the hood now for months with absolutely zero issues. I personally think its a good solution. In fact, my next goal is honestly to move the amps to the frunk. There's a lot of advantages to that.. shorter wires for everything!
Thank you !!!
 
So a bit of an update.. I really wanted to try out some 8" midbass up front. I got a great deal on a used set of AD W800Neo's. These are a shallow mount 8" midbass. It took some serious work to actually get these in, as their shallow design actually made it more challenging. I ended up designing a 3D printed mount and revising it about 5 times to squeeze every millimeter I could. I also ended up shaving down plastic inside the door panel and then adding a lot more dampening. These things seriously crank the midbass, and almost are like having subs up front. They blend wonderfully with the Audiofrogs and the SQL-12 sub.

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So a bit of an update.. I really wanted to try out some 8" midbass up front. I got a great deal on a used set of AD W800Neo's. These are a shallow mount 8" midbass. It took some serious work to actually get these in, as their shallow design actually made it more challenging. I ended up designing a 3D printed mount and revising it about 5 times to squeeze every millimeter I could. I also ended up shaving down plastic inside the door panel and then adding a lot more dampening. These things seriously crank the midbass, and almost are like having subs up front. They blend wonderfully with the Audiofrogs and the SQL-12 sub.

View attachment 756544

View attachment 756545
Awesome sauce!!! I've got a set of W800NEO's and would love to get them into my M3P -- can you share the CAD file with me?