Not production issues.
Alpharex just couldn't make them in time before the spring festival. Production started in mid-Feb and we expect to have the first allocation in mid-April.
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Vendor New Refresh Headlights & Taillights for Tesla Model S 2012-2020 | T Sportline x Alpharex collab NOVA Headlights and Pro Series Taillights
- Thread starter TSportline
- Start date
Alpharex just couldn't make them in time before the spring festival. Production started in mid-Feb and we expect to have the first allocation in mid-April.
Daytonaviolet
Member
Initial release was Dec 23. 3mo nothing. What’s the delay ?
Initial release was Dec 23 = inaccurate
What’s the delay ? = see above
Daytonaviolet
Member
I’ve been following this product before you had it on your site
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
I couldn't wait until this weekend to install these and it's supposed to rain here this weekend. Today it was 64 degrees and beautiful in Virginia, so I went ahead and installed the AR NOVA's, took me about 30 minutes to dig though my disorganized garage and tools to find a 10mm socket and 3/8 inch driver for my drill. Also needed a T25 Torx Driver and I needed a small pick to pry out the fasteners under to release the front bumper from the car. I didnt jack the car up, just set it on high suspension and used a 10mm socket with a shorty driver to reach under the car verses jacking it up.
There were no instructions in the box, but it's pretty easy.
I used this video as a reference video to remove the bumper -
I used this video as a reference video to remove the headlight housings -
While I had the front bumper cover removed I vacuumed out the radiators, the ones with the louvers that open and close in front of each wheel, they were jammed packed with detritus (leaves, sand, a cigarette butt, freaking face diaper (I'm not kidding). I was an about 8 to 12 ounces of crap in there on each side. (120K+ miles) never been cleaned.
Before you reinstall the bumper cover adjust the headlights. (I didnt do this step, but will later). You will need a long handled #4 Phillips screw driver or use an 8mm socket....
It finally got dark here and I did a test drive with my son, the lights are beautiful on the car, but candidly I don't really care about the automations. Compared to the OEM LED Tesla lights these rock. They do throw a huge amount of light close to the car and it has really sharp cutoffs, I didnt adjust these yet, but will have to figure that out tomorrow night. No one flashed me on the test drive, but the seem to be throwing a lot of light low down in front of the car and the intensity drops off as they go further out. On high beam they CRUSHED the old Tesla OEM LEDs on my 2016.
I will also compare these to my Morimoto HID's with Lexus lenses on my FJ, which seem to throw a more uniform. light pattern, without the intensity close to the front of the car.
I son snapped so pics, I just need to get those from him to post later.
There were no instructions in the box, but it's pretty easy.
I used this video as a reference video to remove the bumper -
I used this video as a reference video to remove the headlight housings -
While I had the front bumper cover removed I vacuumed out the radiators, the ones with the louvers that open and close in front of each wheel, they were jammed packed with detritus (leaves, sand, a cigarette butt, freaking face diaper (I'm not kidding). I was an about 8 to 12 ounces of crap in there on each side. (120K+ miles) never been cleaned.
Before you reinstall the bumper cover adjust the headlights. (I didnt do this step, but will later). You will need a long handled #4 Phillips screw driver or use an 8mm socket....
It finally got dark here and I did a test drive with my son, the lights are beautiful on the car, but candidly I don't really care about the automations. Compared to the OEM LED Tesla lights these rock. They do throw a huge amount of light close to the car and it has really sharp cutoffs, I didnt adjust these yet, but will have to figure that out tomorrow night. No one flashed me on the test drive, but the seem to be throwing a lot of light low down in front of the car and the intensity drops off as they go further out. On high beam they CRUSHED the old Tesla OEM LEDs on my 2016.
I will also compare these to my Morimoto HID's with Lexus lenses on my FJ, which seem to throw a more uniform. light pattern, without the intensity close to the front of the car.
I son snapped so pics, I just need to get those from him to post later.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Ignore the post above and see this updated one, it timed out before I could update it.....
I couldn't wait until this weekend to install the AR NOVA's and it's supposed to rain here this weekend. Work was light, then exploded late afternoon. Today it was 64 degrees and beautiful in Virginia, so I went ahead and installed the AR NOVA's, took me about 30 minutes to dig though my disorganized garage and tools to find a 10mm socket and 3/8 inch driver for my drill. Also needed a T25 Torx Driver and I needed a small pick to pry out the fasteners on the belly pan to release the front bumper from the car. I didnt jack the car up, just set it on high suspension and used a 10mm socket with a shorty driver to reach under the car verses jacking it up. Took me about 60 minutes to install and clean the radiators.
There were no instructions in the box, but it's pretty easy.
I used this video as a reference to remove the bumper -
I used this video as a reference to remove the headlight housings -
While I had the front bumper cover removed I vacuumed out the radiators, the ones with the louvers that open and close in front of each wheel, they were jammed packed with detritus; leaves, sand, a cigarette butt, freaking face diaper (I'm not kidding). There was an about 8 to 12 ounces of crap in there on each side. (120K+ miles) never been cleaned. Explains why the fans run so hard when I supercharge in the summer.
After you re-install the bumper cover, you can adjust the headlights by removing the frunk covers left and right and you will see the adjuster next to the wiring on the back of the light. You can reach it from the top through a predrilled hole. You will need a T40 Torx driver or use an 8mm socket....
It finally got dark here and I did a test drive with my son, the lights are beautiful on the car, but candidly I don't really care about the automation, my son thought it was cool. Compared to the OEM LED Tesla lights these rock, the AR NOVA's throw a huge amount of light close to the car and it has really sharp cutoffs, I just got back from adjusting these, and they light output is amazing. No one flashed me on the final test drive, so that is a good sign they are adjusted right. On low beam I think these will incinerate bugs before they reach the car compared to the candles on the OEM lights. High beam is also amazing, but around here most of my driving is with low beams, on high beam I can see street signs reflecting back about 500 meters or so down the road.
Video on how to adjust the cutoff correctly:
I will also compare these to my Morimoto HID's with Lexus lenses on my FJ, which seem to throw a more uniform light pattern, without the intensity close to the front of the car. I paid about $500 in parts to do the FJ, with a lot of my labor to modify the headlamp assembly. I may take my old OEM lights apart and retro the same kit into them for another test.
If these hold up longer than the OEM lights, then I would give them five stars... let's wait a year and see. Very happy not to come back with tired eyes tonight!
I couldn't wait until this weekend to install the AR NOVA's and it's supposed to rain here this weekend. Work was light, then exploded late afternoon. Today it was 64 degrees and beautiful in Virginia, so I went ahead and installed the AR NOVA's, took me about 30 minutes to dig though my disorganized garage and tools to find a 10mm socket and 3/8 inch driver for my drill. Also needed a T25 Torx Driver and I needed a small pick to pry out the fasteners on the belly pan to release the front bumper from the car. I didnt jack the car up, just set it on high suspension and used a 10mm socket with a shorty driver to reach under the car verses jacking it up. Took me about 60 minutes to install and clean the radiators.
There were no instructions in the box, but it's pretty easy.
I used this video as a reference to remove the bumper -
I used this video as a reference to remove the headlight housings -
While I had the front bumper cover removed I vacuumed out the radiators, the ones with the louvers that open and close in front of each wheel, they were jammed packed with detritus; leaves, sand, a cigarette butt, freaking face diaper (I'm not kidding). There was an about 8 to 12 ounces of crap in there on each side. (120K+ miles) never been cleaned. Explains why the fans run so hard when I supercharge in the summer.
After you re-install the bumper cover, you can adjust the headlights by removing the frunk covers left and right and you will see the adjuster next to the wiring on the back of the light. You can reach it from the top through a predrilled hole. You will need a T40 Torx driver or use an 8mm socket....
It finally got dark here and I did a test drive with my son, the lights are beautiful on the car, but candidly I don't really care about the automation, my son thought it was cool. Compared to the OEM LED Tesla lights these rock, the AR NOVA's throw a huge amount of light close to the car and it has really sharp cutoffs, I just got back from adjusting these, and they light output is amazing. No one flashed me on the final test drive, so that is a good sign they are adjusted right. On low beam I think these will incinerate bugs before they reach the car compared to the candles on the OEM lights. High beam is also amazing, but around here most of my driving is with low beams, on high beam I can see street signs reflecting back about 500 meters or so down the road.
Video on how to adjust the cutoff correctly:
I will also compare these to my Morimoto HID's with Lexus lenses on my FJ, which seem to throw a more uniform light pattern, without the intensity close to the front of the car. I paid about $500 in parts to do the FJ, with a lot of my labor to modify the headlamp assembly. I may take my old OEM lights apart and retro the same kit into them for another test.
If these hold up longer than the OEM lights, then I would give them five stars... let's wait a year and see. Very happy not to come back with tired eyes tonight!
Last edited:
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Very nice looking after installation! Good job on breaking down the process!
I have a quick question. Does this headlight have good long-distance performance without too much foreground light pattern in low beam?
As a fan of Morimoto headlight, I am also curious about how this performs. Aftermarket headlights usually have a problem of throwing too much light on the foreground instead of focusing on the distance performance like OEM did. When I was a member at HIDplanet, I saw people even putting a foreground limiter on the e46 bosch projector or Morimoto d2s 4.0 on their projector housing to improve the beam pattern for better visibility and ease on the eyes during longer road trips.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
When I first installed the lights and went for a test drive it was very obvious that they needed to be adjusted and yes the foreground was so illuminated that it was hard to tell if the fog lights where on or off...
Once I adjusted the beams and aligned the cutoffs correctly at the right height the foreground light much less, but still present. The key difference is I could tell when the fog lights were on and off, when before I couldn't. Don't get me wrong the foreground lighting is stronger than my Morimoto 55 Watt HID's @ 6500 Kelvin. I will head out again tonight and try and shoot some video's or stills, so you can see what it looks like. I'm very happy with the outcome, and the weird animations are starting to grow on me.
I like your idea for foreground limiter, I just don't feel these need that. I also plan to integrate some Diode Dynamics Stage 3 SAE/DOT Pro fog lights, but that will require some custom work with a Dremel. I initially got the Morimoto XB fogs, but they are terrible compared to the DD Stage 3 SAE/Dot Pros, which meet the new DOT F3 Standard for fogs.
www.diodedynamics.com
DD Pros on right and stock on left
Once I adjusted the beams and aligned the cutoffs correctly at the right height the foreground light much less, but still present. The key difference is I could tell when the fog lights were on and off, when before I couldn't. Don't get me wrong the foreground lighting is stronger than my Morimoto 55 Watt HID's @ 6500 Kelvin. I will head out again tonight and try and shoot some video's or stills, so you can see what it looks like. I'm very happy with the outcome, and the weird animations are starting to grow on me.
I like your idea for foreground limiter, I just don't feel these need that. I also plan to integrate some Diode Dynamics Stage 3 SAE/DOT Pro fog lights, but that will require some custom work with a Dremel. I initially got the Morimoto XB fogs, but they are terrible compared to the DD Stage 3 SAE/Dot Pros, which meet the new DOT F3 Standard for fogs.
Stage Series 3" SAE/DOT Type OB Fog Light Kit
<style><!-- .rammobcontainer{ max-width: 400px; margin: auto; text-align: center; } * { box-sizing: border-box; } @media screen and (max-width: 767px) { .ramcontainer{ display: none; } } @media screen and (min-width: 768px) { .rammobcontainer{ display: none; } } --></style> <div...
www.diodedynamics.com
DD Pros on right and stock on left
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Thank you for your write-ups and for being so helpful! I live in Australia, and our RHD OEM lights on each side tend to have a step bias going up to the left (to avoid blinding oncoming and illuminating the shoulder better) instead of the step up towards the right-hand side.
When I contacted the vendor, they claimed these light beams were absolutely flat and, therefore, universal. One would take care of the step by adjusting the level of the flat beam.
However, I saw a previous post of the beam pattern, and it appeared to show that there is a step in the beam pattern (on each side). Can you verify whether the pattern on each side is flat or whether it has that step? Many thanks!
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
It definitely has the step down to the left hand drive side.... you can adjust the beam to your RHD, but it has the step down to the LHD...
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Thank you! The vendor's claim appears to have been erroneous, as this is a deal-breaker for meeting legal (and practical) requirements on our RHD cars. Perhaps they will come out with an RHD version at some point. Will follow your progress nonetheless.
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
Love the laser-sharp beam cutoff, and would love to see a video of that headlight in action
Xenoilphobe
Well-Known Member
To be clearer, each headlight typically has a built-in "step" and it either steps up on the right or left to suit RHD or LHD (picture shows LHD/USA headlight example demonstrating step and overlap). Then you align that step up with the other side's low step and it in turn steps up again. The overall effect is that oncoming drivers will have the lowest part of the beam pattern and the road edge has the highest level. I take it from your previus answer and photo that these lights will have a beam pattern much like the one in the picture? And why they won't be acceptable to RHD markets.(picture from post by Caligula elsewhere)
May I ask what issues are you guys running into using them on a 21–22 plaid with older tail lights? I thought they were interchangeable. I donated money I mean paid for a set back in November for a 21 plaid. Lots of people are counting on me to test these out before they buy. I am supposed to make a YouTube video for everyone to follow. Paid December crickets ever since
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headlight base is slightly different on 06.2021+ P2 chassis vehicles. retooling mold to fit properly. thanks for your patience.
Daytonaviolet
Member
I think he’s asking about the tailsheadlight base is slightly different on 06.2021+ P2 chassis vehicles. retooling mold to fit properly. thanks for your patience.
THX723
Member
I do think @TSportline meant to say 'tail lights'. From what I know the tail lights have completely different base/mount different between the '21-'22 and '22+ MS. The headlights, however, share the same base (would mount w.o. modification), but the wiring harness is different (requires an adapter).
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