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Vendor New Refresh Headlights & Taillights for Tesla Model S 2012-2020 | T Sportline x Alpharex collab NOVA Headlights and Pro Series Taillights

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Posting this here since so many like the smoked look on their taillights.

It took a while but I found some PPF that darkens in the light (UV exposure) and goes clear at night. I like the look on my MSM Plaid but just got good (matrix retrofit) headlights and did not want any light reduction at night. Will go with the darker tails after a while. This photochromic effect doesn't last forever. Only a year or two but it's easy to replace it on the headlights. When it fails it will stay clear and not darken as much or at all. Sorry for the outdoor reflections, it goes clear pretty fast in the shade.

I went through a few orders that were purplish instead of gray. Here is the one I have on the car now that is gray and not purple:
TPU Photochromic Lamp Film Car Headlight Tail Light Fog Lamp Color Changing Film UV Protective Film Self Healing

IMG_9466.jpeg
 
Posting this here since so many like the smoked look on their taillights.

It took a while but I found some PPF that darkens in the light (UV exposure) and goes clear at night. I like the look on my MSM Plaid but just got good (matrix retrofit) headlights and did not want any light reduction at night. Will go with the darker tails after a while. This photochromic effect doesn't last forever. Only a year or two but it's easy to replace it on the headlights. When it fails it will stay clear and not darken as much or at all. Sorry for the outdoor reflections, it goes clear pretty fast in the shade.

I went through a few orders that were purplish instead of gray. Here is the one I have on the car now that is gray and not purple:
TPU Photochromic Lamp Film Car Headlight Tail Light Fog Lamp Color Changing Film UV Protective Film Self Healing

View attachment 1059104
This is really cool!!!
 
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Hi,
Just recieved my my Alpharex tail lights from T-sportline. But no cross trim in the package. It should have been in the bottum in the package lengthwise? Or?
It’s easy to miss. Wrapped in white foam and in the bottom of the box under the lights.

One of my friends is in a similar situation, his was missing from the box and Alpharex said they can’t fulfill the missing part order before July 5th.

You can also possibly source an OEM one via OTC parts from Tesla or cut your existing one to make it fit temporarily.
 
Wow, I was super stoked that UPS delivery was today. Came home and found that it was only the adapter and not the actual lights.

I then see an email pop up from TSportline that the actual lights were just shipped. I’m assuming because they ship out from different warehouses…..but why the long wait to ship out? I should have paid closer attention to the fine print to see what was actually shipped in the first round. Sucks.
 
Hmmm....pretty shiesty that they would ship a kit sans an important part without notification.....sounds like Tesla :-| I believe the OTC one from Tesla is $ 125 (additional) bucks. I would mask and cut off the existing until the new arrives. You would probably not even notice a difference.
Yea since mine just shipped, I bet it’s missing as well. I’ll look up your eBay link.
 
Inner lights completed. Goodness it’s true that the process is NOT A JOKE!

IMG_3767.jpeg

The wiring spaghetti is another monster of its own. The only annoying thing (at times) is that the instructions from Alpharex use photos from a pre-refresh within the middle of the breakdown, which sometimes point to mismatched areas, bur hey, it’s part of the game lol


A few more hours to go…
 
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It’s easy to miss. Wrapped in white foam and in the bottom of the box under the lights.

One of my friends is in a similar situation, his was missing from the box and Alpharex said they can’t fulfill the missing part order before July 5th.

You can also possibly source an OEM one via OTC parts from Tesla or cut your existing one to make it fit temporarily.
I took all out of the box. No trim piece :( T-sportline is not answering neither on mail or chat. Just says offline. I might have to cut the org one and wait or buy a OEM. Thats just ekstra $ to an expensive part. (also paid arround 300$ in tax to my country. But it has to be done ;)
 
OK it is SUPER sheisty that they are shipping these out especially out of the US..... and not even saying anything.....

One observation and curious about feedback. Do your right side inner and outer lights line up perfectly so the turn signal sequence is in a perfect straight line ? Mine was noticeably off so I loosened the inner and outer and used a plastic trim tool to lift one and drop the other before retightening. Now it is close enough that barely noticeable however my observation is that the light assemblies at the top and bottom are in perfect alignment but the internal light pipes are slightly offset. I am going to photograph and measure later so this is an initial observation. Left side is perfect. It is visible in the video link I posted earlier when the right turn signal is on.
 
Wow, I was super stoked that UPS delivery was today. Came home and found that it was only the adapter and not the actual lights.

I then see an email pop up from TSportline that the actual lights were just shipped. I’m assuming because they ship out from different warehouses…..but why the long wait to ship out? I should have paid closer attention to the fine print to see what was actually shipped in the first round. Sucks.
I am curious if the missing trim piece is from orders from TSportline and Alpharex ? I ordered from Alpharex directly and it came with the trim piece and the adapters for the 21+ were in the box with the lights and trim piece.

Side note for the intrepid installers that are going to home brew your harnesses and add resistors (vs the $ 65 bucks from Alpharex) the length of the wires to the harness that goes to the top brake light AND the two wires that have to be fished through the grommet will be too short so you will have to lengthen those wires. If you order the adapter kit, it comes with new harnesses.
 
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View attachment 1051986Finally fitted them.

They forgot to add wiring to pull reversing from right to left and fog. So i soldered sone wires on and they worked on both sides.

Hardest really was the side of the chargeport.. i have a motorized port so it was so hard to remove the unit… my charge port i almost totally dismanteled but eventually with some movements i was able to unscrew it from the unit…

And while i tried fitting the Alpharex I broke the side of the unit, i could cry! But glued it on again and it looks fine i guess…
View attachment 1051991

You know, i do retrofits for a living but i can say the charge port side was hard 😂 it needs practice obviously but for a first time i can say it was hard.

Ended up pulling wiring for the center units to the side from the existing harnass, else blinkers will not be full over 2 units but just the side (like oem i guess)

I did everything without removing the battery. Because i was to lazy te remove it. No errors in the end all functions work fine.

I broke mine too!! Sadly the piece flew somewhere in a black hole, and never to be found again...


My tail lights are the smoked ones so i'm going to look around for some small ABS piece that I can trim up and epoxy-glue to it, unless anyone knows a way to address that kind of damage with the missing piece?
 
I am curious if the missing trim piece is from orders from TSportline and Alpharex ? I ordered from Alpharex directly and it came with the trim piece and the adapters for the 21+ were in the box with the lights and trim piece.

Side note for the intrepid installers that are going to home brew your harnesses and add resistors (vs the $ 65 bucks from Alpharex) the length of the wires to the harness that goes to the top brake light AND the two wires that have to be fished through the grommet will be too short so you will have to lengthen those wires. If you order the adapter kit, it comes with new harnesses.
i had mine from T-Sportline and the trim piece was present
 
I broke mine too!! Sadly the piece flew somewhere in a black hole, and never to be found again...


My tail lights are the smoked ones so i'm going to look around for some small ABS piece that I can trim up and epoxy-glue to it, unless anyone knows a way to address that kind of damage with the missing piece?
The charge port side is a major time and effort project. Someone recommended to me to START there when you are fresh and not frustrate by pulling all of the wiring up and through the hatch. Wanting a quick win I started with the left inner but in hindsight, he was spot on.

The charge port outer light is difficult and requires very fine finessing to get the OEM light out and the new assembly in.

NOTE NOTE NOTE : strongly recommend to NOT just power down the car from the screen. Pull the LV battery connection and the first responder loop that is beside it. Takes less than a minute and it will eliminate the possibility of really hurting yourself or worse as you are frustratingly pulling and pushing to install that left outer light. You may grab a tool that swings into the wrong place and the car is not truly asleep and kill yourself or massive burns. This comes directly from a Tesla Engineer I know and my own knowledge as an EE of what lurks within..... removing the power cables from the charge port connector and moving the charge port connector out of the way makes the job about as easiest as it can be. Note that with pre-refresh, the power 'cables' are in fact copper cables so flexible but in the 21+ they are aluminum conduits so you have VERY LITTLE flex to pull them back to get the charge port connector out of there.

FWIW
 
The charge port side is a major time and effort project. Someone recommended to me to START there when you are fresh and not frustrate by pulling all of the wiring up and through the hatch. Wanting a quick win I started with the left inner but in hindsight, he was spot on.

The charge port outer light is difficult and requires very fine finessing to get the OEM light out and the new assembly in.

NOTE NOTE NOTE : strongly recommend to NOT just power down the car from the screen. Pull the LV battery connection and the first responder loop that is beside it. Takes less than a minute and it will eliminate the possibility of really hurting yourself or worse as you are frustratingly pulling and pushing to install that left outer light. You may grab a tool that swings into the wrong place and the car is not truly asleep and kill yourself or massive burns. This comes directly from a Tesla Engineer I know and my own knowledge as an EE of what lurks within..... removing the power cables from the charge port connector and moving the charge port connector out of the way makes the job about as easiest as it can be. Note that with pre-refresh, the power 'cables' are in fact copper cables so flexible but in the 21+ they are aluminum conduits so you have VERY LITTLE flex to pull them back to get the charge port connector out of there.

FWIW


I'd like to emphasize on what was said here. He is 100% right.

I had pulled the LV battery and the first responder loop when deciding to work on the driver side tail light. Prior to that, the car woke up a number of random times. it is possible that just choosing to power down the car does it the 'right' way for pre-refresh, but definitely not for our refresh ones. And since it's always best to play it safe, killing the power completely for pre-refresh is just as recommended.


I did follow your breakdown when working on mine (major thanks btw!), and realized how intimidating those thick pipes can be. The mere idea of possibly getting hit with 400V Direct Current makes me shiver lol
 
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I'd like to emphasize on what was said here. He is 100% right.

I had pulled the LV battery and the first responder loop when deciding to work on the driver side tail light. Prior to that, the car woke up a number of random times. it is possible that just choosing to power down the car does it the 'right' way for pre-refresh, but definitely not for our refresh ones. And since it's always best to play it safe, killing the power completely for pre-refresh is just as recommended.


I did follow your breakdown when working on mine (major thanks btw!), and realized how intimidating those thick pipes can be. The mere idea of possibly getting hit with 400V Direct Current makes me shiver lol
Another SAFETY tip. If/when you remove the conductors from the charge port, you need to re-torque the posts (screws that the nuts go on to) and properly re-torque the nuts you put back on. When you do remove the nuts, the bolts/terminals they are screwed on to will slightly loosen as well. These need to be retorqued first using a proper torque wrench with a hex nut bit. The screws are 2 Nm and the nuts are 9 Nm (thats Newton Meters NOT foot pounds !). SUPER IMPORTANT !
 
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