No subwoofer in '23 Model 3 standard range?

[FilchMedia]

Both a friend of mine and I got a standard model 3 RWD I Jan '23. We relaxed the speakers on the cabin and are just now looking to swap the subwoofer. My friend opened his truck and there's no subwoofer, amp, or enclosure where we would expect one to be.

I haven't checked mine yet, but we're these not included in this year's standard models? I can't find anywhere where anyone is mentioning this.

 

[FilchMedia]

Both a friend of mine and I got a standard model 3 RWD I Jan '23. We replaced the speakers in the cabin and are just now looking to swap the subwoofer. My friend opened his trunk and there's no subwoofer, amp, or enclosure where we would expect one to be.

I haven't checked mine yet, but we're these not included in this year's standard models? I can't find anywhere where anyone is mentioning this.

I can't find an edit in the mobile web version, but there are a few obvious typos. Fixed here.

 

[MP3Mike]

No, the RWD Model 3 does not come with a subwoofer. (That is part of the "premium audio system" that comes on the LR and Performance variants.)

It comes with the "partial premium interior":

vs. the full "premium interior":

But they don't really make that obvious unless you look for it.

 

[FilchMedia]

Is it possible to just drop in the enclosure and amp from 2nd hand market? Or is there wiring/splicing needed?

 

[jjrandorin]

Is it possible to just drop in the enclosure and amp from 2nd hand market? Or is there wiring/splicing needed?

I would imagine that someone like @RWAudio , might know the answer to your question. They have previously given lots of advise to people on the topic of audio work in model 3s.

 

[Soul Surfer]

I can't find an edit in the mobile web version, but there are a few obvious typos. Fixed here.

Sad but true. You would think that Tesla would make this point on the website or somewhere. Then people buying the RWD SR+ sometimes end up spending more money just to redo the ICE (in-car-entertainment) system.

 

[todd2fst4u]

Is it possible to just drop in the enclosure and amp from 2nd hand market? Or is there wiring/splicing needed?

It’s not possible to use the factory amp.

 

[RWAudio]

I would imagine that someone like @RWAudio , might know the answer to your question. They have previously given lots of advise to people on the topic of audio work in model 3s.

Thanks for the tag @jjrandorin

The SR+ and RWD lack all supporting hardware for the premium system with the exception of door tweeters, pillar speakers and in older cars the rear deck mids. The aftermarket harnesses from Hansshow and others often referred to as speaker activation harnesses power the door tweeters and pillar speakers by paralleling them with the left/right dash midrange, and likely the rear deck speakers with the rear door mids on older cars. (As a '23 RWD you won't have the rear deck speakers anyway)

I also have a '23 model 3 RWD and have done many audio upgrades including adding the factory subwoofer enclosure with an aftermarket subwoofer and amp. The factory wiring for the rear amp simply doesn't exist as far as I know, and even if it did it likely wouldn't simply work as the audio software running on a RWD is slightly different than the Premium system.

The factory premium subwoofer enclosure will bolt into a RWD (You can buy this from Tesla, or from Ebay/Salvage yard etc. just watch out for broken mounting tabs). You could then use the factory woofer, or use an adapter to bolt in an aftermarket subwoofer. You will need an aftermarket amp, I've designed a bracket that bolts onto the factory enclosure to mount the Kicker key 500.1 I also have subwoofer adapters for the Kicker L7T8 and Alpine 8". You can download the files for free from my website and 3D print them. www.rwaudio.com

I used the hansshow speaker activation harness mentioned above to get the signal for the door mids, which is what I used to feed the signal into the Kicker amp that powers the sub. Power and ground for the amp are available under the rear seat on the passenger side. There is no easily available remote turn on (switched ignition) wire in the Tesla so using an amp like the Kicker with signal sensing to turn on saves you some headaches, also be aware the car has a 16v electrical system, not 12v as is typical so be careful what amp you use. The kicker is rated up to 16v making that part easy too.

Adding the subwoofer is a worthy upgrade, what kind of speakers did you use in the cabin?

 

[thesuffering]

To add to what RWAudio said, if you dont want to try to deal with signal sense you can improvise your own switched 12v that works with the seat sensor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModel3/comments/13h16ed

i have info and a diagram on reddit, and there is a similar thread also here on TMC. Definitely more involved but this would allow more amp options. As RWAudio said, post refresh models have 16V low voltage, not 12v, so you'll need to ensure your hardware will accept 16v input.

 

[RWAudio]

To add to what RWAudio said, if you dont want to try to deal with signal sense you can improvise your own switched 12v that works with the seat sensor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModel3/comments/13h16ed

i have info and a diagram on reddit, and there is a similar thread also here on TMC. Definitely more involved but this would allow more amp options. As RWAudio said, post refresh models have 16V low voltage, not 12v, so you'll need to ensure your hardware will accept 16v input.

That's a great option!

I haven't tried it myself, but a less intrusive option might be one of these: Stereo Line Out Converter - KISLOC2 | KICKER®
Now there's always a chance it won't work with all amps. I'm sure there are other brands, a device like this wouldn't be rocket science to create.

 

[FilchMedia]

Thanks for the tag @jjrandorin

.

Adding the subwoofer is a worthy upgrade, what kind of speakers did you use in the cabin?

Thanks for the details @RWAudio , I was actually following some of your threads a while back.
I put in the Focal ISU 200's and Infinity Ref4032cfx

I used to have a 12" JL Audio W3 in my previous vehicle, so I'm really missing that bottom

 

[FilchMedia]

As RWAudio said, post refresh models have 16V low voltage, not 12v, so you'll need to ensure your hardware will accept 16v input.

I looked at the documentation on the kicker amp, but I don't see where it allows a 16v input? If I were to shop around, what would I look for to determine it was able to accept that high.

 

[RWAudio]

I looked at the documentation on the kicker amp, but I don't see where it allows a 16v input? If I were to shop around, what would I look for to determine it was able to accept that high.

For the Kicker Key 500.1 page 16 of the manual in both the "Green LED off, no output?" and "Red(PRT) LED on, no output?" sections it mentions 16v and the latter calling out 6-16v operating range. https://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/47KEY5001.pdf

Would have been nice if they just put it in the main specs!
The Key 200.4 has the same rating. The CXA400.1 seems to have an 8-16v operating range listed in the same part of the manual (page 6).

 

[FilchMedia]

Any warranty concerns? If i leveraged any of these, what potential issues could I run into when it comes to the warranty?

 

[RWAudio]

No different than modifying any other car/brand/product. I'd suggest doing any modifications non-invasively meaning don't cut wires, don't drill holes. If going with an aftermarket amp don't go crazy, some people have said issues crop up at high power levels. Same with speakers, stock dash speakers are 3 ohm, keep replacements similar, IE 4 ohm, but probably not 2 ohm. Same with Door woofers and the subwoofer, if using factory amplification use 4 ohm door woofers and dual 4 ohm subwoofers. The only real answer is to contact your local service centre as they are the ones that are going to approve/deny a warranty claim. To reach a wider audience on here, make a thread asking about how aftermarket audio and warranty issues turned out.

 

[aranger22]

Thanks for the tag @jjrandorin

The SR+ and RWD lack all supporting hardware for the premium system with the exception of door tweeters, pillar speakers and in older cars the rear deck mids. The aftermarket harnesses from Hansshow and others often referred to as speaker activation harnesses power the door tweeters and pillar speakers by paralleling them with the left/right dash midrange, and likely the rear deck speakers with the rear door mids on older cars. (As a '23 RWD you won't have the rear deck speakers anyway)

I also have a '23 model 3 RWD and have done many audio upgrades including adding the factory subwoofer enclosure with an aftermarket subwoofer and amp. The factory wiring for the rear amp simply doesn't exist as far as I know, and even if it did it likely wouldn't simply work as the audio software running on a RWD is slightly different than the Premium system.

The factory premium subwoofer enclosure will bolt into a RWD (You can buy this from Tesla, or from Ebay/Salvage yard etc. just watch out for broken mounting tabs). You could then use the factory woofer, or use an adapter to bolt in an aftermarket subwoofer. You will need an aftermarket amp, I've designed a bracket that bolts onto the factory enclosure to mount the Kicker key 500.1 I also have subwoofer adapters for the Kicker L7T8 and Alpine 8". You can download the files for free from my website and 3D print them. www.rwaudio.com

I used the hansshow speaker activation harness mentioned above to get the signal for the door mids, which is what I used to feed the signal into the Kicker amp that powers the sub. Power and ground for the amp are available under the rear seat on the passenger side. There is no easily available remote turn on (switched ignition) wire in the Tesla so using an amp like the Kicker with signal sensing to turn on saves you some headaches, also be aware the car has a 16v electrical system, not 12v as is typical so be careful what amp you use. The kicker is rated up to 16v making that part easy too.

Adding the subwoofer is a worthy upgrade, what kind of speakers did you use in the cabin?

Hey thanks for such a detailed response. I was wondering if you have any 3D printer brackets for any of the 8” sub/amp combos. For example the Alpine PWE-S8, Rockville SS8P, Kicker HS8, etc.

I actually have the Hansshow Kit which enables the front 4 speakers and want to add a subwoofer now. Hannshow used to sell a Version A kit which had an 8” Sub/Amp combo with a bracket, but sadly it’s not available anymore.

Would any of the 8” sub/amp combos I listed work for the 2023 RWD with a 3D printed bracket? I think this would be the cheapest and most easiest way to add a sub.

 

[RWAudio]

Hey thanks for such a detailed response. I was wondering if you have any 3D printer brackets for any of the 8” sub/amp combos. For example the Alpine PWE-S8, Rockville SS8P, Kicker HS8, etc.

I actually have the Hansshow Kit which enables the front 4 speakers and want to add a subwoofer now. Hannshow used to sell a Version A kit which had an 8” Sub/Amp combo with a bracket, but sadly it’s not available anymore.

Would any of the 8” sub/amp combos I listed work for the 2023 RWD with a 3D printed bracket? I think this would be the cheapest and most easiest way to add a sub.

The reason I went down the path of using the stock premium subwoofer enclosure is that it makes good use of otherwise wasted space. I didn't want to give up any cargo space. Any of the products you mentioned would probably work great, however I'm not sure if any of them would fit in the side panel where the stock subwoofer lives, these would probably make more sense in the lower trunk compartment. If you want to go down the path of trying to fit one of these systems in the side panel with custom brackets I'm happy to help out with bracket design. I would let you do the leg work of measuring and verifying that the enclosure will fit and where if any mounting locations exist on the sub/amp combo so I can design brackets. Alpine and others have new subwoofer enclosures to mount in place of the stock subwoofer, though I'm sure they cost more as it's a very specific use case.

 

[Prime56]

Hey thanks for such a detailed response. I was wondering if you have any 3D printer brackets for any of the 8” sub/amp combos. For example the Alpine PWE-S8, Rockville SS8P, Kicker HS8, etc.

I actually have the Hansshow Kit which enables the front 4 speakers and want to add a subwoofer now. Hannshow used to sell a Version A kit which had an 8” Sub/Amp combo with a bracket, but sadly it’s not available anymore.

Would any of the 8” sub/amp combos I listed work for the 2023 RWD with a 3D printed bracket? I think this would be the cheapest and most easiest way to add a sub.

I saw a 3d bracket for the Model 3 SR+ and Alpine PWE-S8, I just don't know if that amp will work with 16v. What on the tech spec sheets are we looking for to see if the amp will work with 16v? Input level?

 

[RWAudio]

Hey thanks for such a detailed response. I was wondering if you have any 3D printer brackets for any of the 8” sub/amp combos. For example the Alpine PWE-S8, Rockville SS8P, Kicker HS8, etc.

I actually have the Hansshow Kit which enables the front 4 speakers and want to add a subwoofer now. Hannshow used to sell a Version A kit which had an 8” Sub/Amp combo with a bracket, but sadly it’s not available anymore.

Would any of the 8” sub/amp combos I listed work for the 2023 RWD with a 3D printed bracket? I think this would be the cheapest and most easiest way to add a sub.

The reason I went down the path of using the stock premium subwoofer enclosure is that it makes good use of otherwise wasted space. I didn't want to give up any cargo space. Any of the products you mentioned would probably work great, however I'm not sure if any of them would fit in the side panel where the stock subwoofer lives, these would probably make more sense in the lower trunk compartment. If you want to go down the path of trying to fit one of these systems in the side panel with custom brackets I'm happy to help out with bracket design. I would let you do the leg work of measuring and verifying that the enclosure will fit and where if any mounting locations exist on the sub/amp combo so I can design brackets. Alpine and others have new subwoofer enclosures to mount in place of the stock subwoofer, though I'm sure they cost more as it's a very specific use case.

As for your question about the voltage range, not all companies seem to list this as cars almost always use a 12v lead acid battery so the power source is simply assumed. Some companies call it out specifically, an example is attached of the Helix V Twelve DSP/Amp. The Kicker Key 500.1 is also 16v capable, however they weren't kind enough to just list it in the specs, it's in the troubleshooting section where they want you to check the power voltage is between the 6-16v operating range if the amp doesn't turn on.

I did have a look at the Alpine manual and it doesn't appear to mention the operating voltage range. You could reach out to them and ask, however it's unlikely anyone you could talk to would actually know the answer. Given the possible consequences of damaging the 16v system in the tesla and the likelyhood Tesla would say it's not their problem, I wouldn't risk using any component that isn't rated for 16v.

 

[Prime56]

The reason I went down the path of using the stock premium subwoofer enclosure is that it makes good use of otherwise wasted space. I didn't want to give up any cargo space. Any of the products you mentioned would probably work great, however I'm not sure if any of them would fit in the side panel where the stock subwoofer lives, these would probably make more sense in the lower trunk compartment. If you want to go down the path of trying to fit one of these systems in the side panel with custom brackets I'm happy to help out with bracket design. I would let you do the leg work of measuring and verifying that the enclosure will fit and where if any mounting locations exist on the sub/amp combo so I can design brackets. Alpine and others have new subwoofer enclosures to mount in place of the stock subwoofer, though I'm sure they cost more as it's a very specific use case.

As for your question about the voltage range, not all companies seem to list this as cars almost always use a 12v lead acid battery so the power source is simply assumed. Some companies call it out specifically, an example is attached of the Helix V Twelve DSP/Amp. The Kicker Key 500.1 is also 16v capable, however they weren't kind enough to just list it in the specs, it's in the troubleshooting section where they want you to check the power voltage is between the 6-16v operating range if the amp doesn't turn on.

I did have a look at the Alpine manual and it doesn't appear to mention the operating voltage range. You could reach out to them and ask, however it's unlikely anyone you could talk to would actually know the answer. Given the possible consequences of damaging the 16v system in the tesla and the likelyhood Tesla would say it's not their problem, I wouldn't risk using any component that isn't rated for 16v.

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Thanks for that! It looks like the Kicker HS10 follows the same guidelines?

Edit: It also looks like the Pioneer TS-WH500A might work as well?