Tesla 940
Member
Strider - thanks for the pictures and instructions. I received my rotors yesterday so it is this weekends project. Hope to go to Willow Springs either 6/20 or 6/28 - it rained after Session #3 on 6/6.
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Tesla 940
Member
Today was the day. Replaced the rotors, new pads, and bled the brakes. From starting to pull out the tools to washing my hands about 4 1/2 hours - this included at least 30 minutes looking up on how to "retract" the rear brake caliper pistons. Tomorrow morning is bedding the pads/rotors. Thanks everyone!
Habious
Member
I don't know if I'm the only one with this issue but, I can't get Tesla to sell me the lift adapters. I've called, several times, about them.
Last time, I talked to a manager. He said "We don't sell them." I said "Yes, you do. The owner's manual specifically says to call Tesla and buy them." He was like "Really? Huh. Let me get back to you."
He didn't.
A tiny bit annoying to have the only people that make a required part...refuse to sell that part to you.
A few people here have made their own and saved a lot of money over Tesla's price (when they sold them). I'm getting ready to make some myself. Check out this thread where Doug_G and spaceballs generously shared their CAD files. Send one of those files to your favorite machine shop (spaceball's are made for emachineshop.com) and they'll give you a quote to make them.
Perhaps we need to start a thread "Group Buy Tesla Roadster Lift Adapters" and see how many people want them and what kind of price we can get.
Habious
Member
Roadrunner13
Member
No mention of that in Strider's post.
Did you run in a problem that forced you to bled the brakes or you just chose to include this in the maintenance?
I think I'll be ok with the rotors but I'm not too keen on adding this part to my 'mechanics' experience!
No mention of that in Strider's post.
Did you run in a problem that forced you to bled the brakes or you just chose to include this in the maintenance?
I think I'll be ok with the rotors but I'm not too keen on adding this part to my 'mechanics' experience!
You have to bleed the brakes to get the air out of the lines. The real question is whether or not you also choose to flush all the brake fluid. That's a job that needs to be done about every 2 years on a Roadster. You might as well do it now because it will be easier. If you don't do it, your fluid will turn to sludge unless you live where it's really dry.
Roadrunner13
Member
My roadster is still being serviced by Tesla, so changing the brake fluid is something I can make sure they do if I time my yearly maintenance just after I replace the rotors. It would be a 'quality control' on my changing the rotors if I ask that from them to make sure all works well!
Now, if I only change the rotors, I don't understand what is the risk of actually getting air into the lines?
As long as I don't disconnect the calipers from the fluid lines, shouldn't I be ok?
My roadster is still being serviced by Tesla, so changing the brake fluid is something I can make sure they do if I time my yearly maintenance just after I replace the rotors. It would be a 'quality control' on my changing the rotors if I ask that from them to make sure all works well!
Now, if I only change the rotors, I don't understand what is the risk of actually getting air into the lines?
As long as I don't disconnect the calipers from the fluid lines, shouldn't I be ok?
You might be right if you're careful. I had to open the bleeders to let fluid out when I pushed the pistons back and somehow got air in there despite using a reservoir and tube to prevent it.
Tesla service has been advising me every other year at my annual to flush my brake fluid. And offering to do it for me. I will probably let them next time because I always make a mess no matter how careful I am.
Tesla 940
Member
Bleeding the brakes was optional. The SC recommended it last year and thought I would do it when I changed pads, then waited longer until I got the rotors. Tesla wanted $120 to do the job. I already had the tool, the fluid was a few bucks, and since I had everything apart it was only a matter of a few additional minutes. Air in the lines make the brake pedal feel "spongy" as a result of the air getting compressed when you step on the brake pedal. Brake fluid absorbs moisture so it needs to be changed every 1-3 years depending on the climate.
strider
Active Member
I think that's a good point, it may vary on whether you're also doing the Carbotech change at the same time. If you are changing the pads, like hcsharp said you'll probably want to bleed the system just to get any bubbles out that may sneak in when you push the pistons into the calipers to make room for the fresh pads. You don't need to flush the system as a result of this - stick w/ the every 2 year cycle for that. In my case I already had done the Carbotechs and so didn't need to push the pistons back into the calipers - I just wiggled the caliper a bit and it dropped onto the new rotor.
Bottom line is that if the pedal feels squishy after the change then you should bleed the brakes. If you're paying someone to swap the rotors it's up to you if you want them to bleed the system while they have the wheels off.
Bottom line is that if the pedal feels squishy after the change then you should bleed the brakes. If you're paying someone to swap the rotors it's up to you if you want them to bleed the system while they have the wheels off.
Strider:
No air "sneaks in" when you replace pads.
This is a closed system. All you are doing is forcing fluid back from the piston and into the lines and back to the reservoir.
As an aside, I bleed brakes in ALL my cars every 2 years as DOT 3 and DOT 4 work hard to absorb and scavenge water in order to keep the metal from rusting. It also heats up and degrades. Changing fluid removes water saturated fluid AND removes heat damaged fluid.
Best,
T
No air "sneaks in" when you replace pads.
This is a closed system. All you are doing is forcing fluid back from the piston and into the lines and back to the reservoir.
As an aside, I bleed brakes in ALL my cars every 2 years as DOT 3 and DOT 4 work hard to absorb and scavenge water in order to keep the metal from rusting. It also heats up and degrades. Changing fluid removes water saturated fluid AND removes heat damaged fluid.
Best,
T
Bedding-in procedure?
My new rotors and AX6 pads are now installed on my Roadster.
I have a question for the more experienced performance drivers on the forum. The instructions for the Carbotech AX6 pads include a fairly strict bedding-in procedure:
This is all new to me. I’ve never before (to my knowledge) had brake pads that required a bedding-in procedure.
Is there a safe and appropriate alternative that doesn’t require me to drive down to Laguna Seca for a few laps on the race track? What procedure have other people followed?
I assume a “lap” means about two miles?
What does “normal speed” mean in step 2? Is that “normal” for normal street driving, or “normal” for trying to win a race? Does “normal” mean cruising around Laguna Seca at a comfortable street driving speed, or does “normal” mean thrashing around Laguna Seca trying to get a respectable sub-two-minute lap time, with full acceleration all the way along every straight, and vicious braking at the last possible moment before entering every corner?
What’s the best way to get my new rotors and brake pads working correctly and safely without having to book a track day at Laguna Seca?
My new rotors and AX6 pads are now installed on my Roadster.
I have a question for the more experienced performance drivers on the forum. The instructions for the Carbotech AX6 pads include a fairly strict bedding-in procedure:
This is all new to me. I’ve never before (to my knowledge) had brake pads that required a bedding-in procedure.
Is there a safe and appropriate alternative that doesn’t require me to drive down to Laguna Seca for a few laps on the race track? What procedure have other people followed?
I assume a “lap” means about two miles?
What does “normal speed” mean in step 2? Is that “normal” for normal street driving, or “normal” for trying to win a race? Does “normal” mean cruising around Laguna Seca at a comfortable street driving speed, or does “normal” mean thrashing around Laguna Seca trying to get a respectable sub-two-minute lap time, with full acceleration all the way along every straight, and vicious braking at the last possible moment before entering every corner?
What’s the best way to get my new rotors and brake pads working correctly and safely without having to book a track day at Laguna Seca?
Last edited:
djp
Model 3 Performance
You don't need a track, just find a straight open road and make sure no one is behind you when you're braking.
http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/how-to-bed-in-brake-pads
Try not to engage ABS, and don't set the parking brake afterwards when the brakes are cooling off.
http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/how-to-bed-in-brake-pads
Try not to engage ABS, and don't set the parking brake afterwards when the brakes are cooling off.
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