Outdoor HPWC Install Atlanta (Pictures)

[spesler]

Had my install done today by TE Certified Electricians, a Tesla recommended installer. They used 3 ga copper on a 60a breaker and included an unused conductor in case I wanted to swap the breaker and install a 14-50 when selling the house.

It came in at $1000 plus the charger and before the GA Power discount. Perhaps a little expensive, but I am very pleased with the quality of work.

 

[MikeATL]

By Georgia Power discount, I assume you mean the $250 rebate? Was it your understanding that if you had just bought an extra mobile connector and installed a NEMA 14-50, that you would not have been eligible for the rebate?

 

[Kermee]

Looks like a nice clean install! Congratulations!

 

[spesler]

By Georgia Power discount, I assume you mean the $250 rebate? Was it your understanding that if you had just bought an extra mobile connector and installed a NEMA 14-50, that you would not have been eligible for the rebate?

I was pretty set on the HPWC - mostly for curb appeal and convenience. I didn’t look into the rebate for a 14-50 at all.

https://www.georgiapower.com/conten...sidential-pdfs/residential_ev_rebate_form.pdf

It is clear from the form that you need to buy some sort of charger, as opposed to just a 14-50. Your comment about buying an extra mobile connector is interesting - I could definitely see it being arguable. Probably best to contact Georgia Power and ask (or just roll the dice).

 

[EnrgyNDpndnce]

@spesler That does look good, congrats!

 

[8cans]

Looks really good!

Which cable length is that? I'm having mine installed next week and have opted for the longer cable but was worried it would look untidy as it needs to be on the front of my house.

 

[spesler]

Looks really good!

Which cable length is that? I'm having mine installed next week and have opted for the longer cable but was worried it would look untidy as it needs to be on the front of my house.

Thank you, and everyone else, for the kind words!

This is a 24’ cable. My driveway is two-wide, and the Connector is in the center. It is long enough to reach both cars, even if they don’t back in (not that the Odyssey will benefit from this!)

 

[8cans]

Thank you, and everyone else, for the kind words!

This is a 24’ cable. My driveway is two-wide, and the Connector is in the center. It is long enough to reach both cars, even if they don’t back in (not that the Odyssey will benefit from this!)

Thank you!

 

[nwdiver]

$1k is a really good deal. I'm a little surprised they used the PVC conduit instead of EMT metallic. I had an electrician friend help install my solar. I used PVC and he used EMT... the difference after ~5 years exposed to the elements is stark. The EMT still looks new while the PVC is discolored and aged... I guess if you paint it that shouldn't matter.

 

[spesler]

$1k is a really good deal. I'm a little surprised they used the PVC conduit instead of EMT metallic. I had an electrician friend help install my solar. I used PVC and he used EMT... the difference after ~5 years exposed to the elements is stark. The EMT still looks new while the PVC is discolored and aged... I guess if you paint it that shouldn't matter.

That makes me feel better. I had a lower number in my head for the cost, but it was without a real basis.

PVC was the electrician’s suggestion. They have Tesla installs streamlined (quote/install in same visit), so didn’t offer an alternative. When I asked why not metal conduit, he said it wasn’t required, but could be quoted if I wanted. I guess I have to paint the plastic now!

 

[eprosenx]

Had my install done today by TE Certified Electricians, a Tesla recommended installer. They used 3 ga copper on a 60a breaker and included an unused conductor in case I wanted to swap the breaker and install a 14-50 when selling the house.

It came in at $1000 plus the charger and before the GA Power discount. Perhaps a little expensive, but I am very pleased with the quality of work.

Odd that they used 3 AWG but only a 60a breaker. 3 AWG in conduit is good for 100a... Maybe your panel could not handle a 100a breaker or did otherwise not have enough service capacity?

Nice install! Though yeah, I like EMT better personally. Seems like a pretty easy job really...

What gauge extra conductor did they run? That is kind of odd though, I don't think you can fit 3 AWG under the terminals of most 14-50 receptacles so you would have to down size it somehow. Also, people always seem to forget that they can just install a 6-50 receptacle. The extra neutral is really and truly a waste for EV's... I guess we are just obsessed with 14-50's since that is what Tesla includes from the factory since they are the most common plug type in the wild.

 

[8cans]

Just had my charger installed. Really pleased with the end result. Just need the car now (arrives Monday)!

 

[MikeATL]

Just had my charger installed. Really pleased with the end result. Just need the car now (arrives Monday)!

Looks like my car will be here sooner than expected, so rushing to get the Wall Connector installed! Connector should be arriving next week and working on lining up an Electrician (probably won’t call TE as those guys seem to be expensive.)

 

[larryj]

Looks like my car will be here sooner than expected, so rushing to get the Wall Connector installed! Connector should be arriving next week and working on lining up an Electrician (probably won’t call TE as those guys seem to be expensive.)

I received estimates from 4 Atlanta area electricians on Tesla's list. TE was by far the cheapest and the most thorough in that they were the only company that did a load calculation up front. They checked out my AC units, dryer, oven, etc. I'm still exploring my options but I would give TE a shot.

 

[MikeATL]

I received estimates from 4 Atlanta area electricians on Tesla's list. TE was by far the cheapest and the most thorough

Hmmm.... I definitely want a quality job, but I've seen other posts that seemed to indicate TE was pricy. Of course, it depends on the scope of the job. My install will be just about as easy as could be.... WC is being installed directly below the Panel. I have free slots in the panel and I believe I have plenty of load free (though I would want them to check.)

Any guess what TE would price for this? Did they need to come out to give you an estimate? and did they charge for that visit if you declined to proceed? (have run into this problem with larger electrical contractors in the past)

 

[spesler]

@MikeATL

TE doesn’t charge for the estimate, and typically shows up ready to work the same day, if you want. Everything about my experience was positive.

I indicated above that I thought they were a little expensive, but others have said I got a good deal. I did not get multiple quotes (time is valuable!), but was comparing to other prices mentioned on the board - not necessarily apples to apples.

It couldn’t hurt to let them quote it.

 

[larryj]

Hmmm.... I definitely want a quality job, but I've seen other posts that seemed to indicate TE was pricy. Of course, it depends on the scope of the job. My install will be just about as easy as could be.... WC is being installed directly below the Panel. I have free slots in the panel and I believe I have plenty of load free (though I would want them to check.)

Any guess what TE would price for this? Did they need to come out to give you an estimate? and did they charge for that visit if you declined to proceed? (have run into this problem with larger electrical contractors in the past)

My setup is pretty close to yours - the WC will be directly below or right next to the panel. I just realized that one of the four was cheaper than I thought. Missed that somehow. My estimates (I assume it's acceptable to share) -

TE - $686 for a 25amp breaker, based on the load check. Not happy about that.
EnviroSpark - $700.85, 14-50 NEMA outlet. Following up on a direct wiring approach.
Ampt - $1,100, 60amp
ArcAngel - $1,050, 60amp

My concern is that I have a 150 amp panel but have electric HVAC, dryer, oven, dishwasher, etc. We only have gas going to the fireplace and stovetop for some reason. TE told me 25amps is all that should be done and anything beyond that could mean failing the inspection. The others didn't mention that (other than EnviroSpark dropping to 50), so I wonder if they will change their story if they get here for the actual install or if they will move forward and I could get nailed at the inspection.

25 amps = 19 miles of charge per hour. Pretty disappointing.

 

[eprosenx]

My setup is pretty close to yours - the WC will be directly below or right next to the panel. I just realized that one of the four was cheaper than I thought. Missed that somehow. My estimates (I assume it's acceptable to share) -

TE - $686 for a 25amp breaker, based on the load check. Not happy about that.
EnviroSpark - $700.85, 14-50 NEMA outlet. Following up on a direct wiring approach.
Ampt - $1,100, 60amp
ArcAngel - $1,050, 60amp

My concern is that I have a 150 amp panel but have electric HVAC, dryer, oven, dishwasher, etc. We only have gas going to the fireplace and stovetop for some reason. TE told me 25amps is all that should be done and anything beyond that could mean failing the inspection. The others didn't mention that (other than EnviroSpark dropping to 50), so I wonder if they will change their story if they get here for the actual install or if they will move forward and I could get nailed at the inspection.

25 amps = 19 miles of charge per hour. Pretty disappointing.

Can you post picture of your panel? 150amps is a weird number. Usually services are 100, 200, or 400/320 amps. (You might have a panel bus rated for that, but your service may only be 100a)

Doing actual load calcs is beyond most electricians and inspectors from what I can tell.

I personally am a fan of running wire sufficient for a 60a circuit let’s say (6awg in conduit) and putting in a 60a breaker, but then just cranking the wall connector down (with the rotary dial) to whatever setting is appropriate based on the load calcs. I believe this is code compliant. The benefit being that if you change anything (like convert dryer ton gas or something) you can just crank up the amps later.

Also, I probably would monitor my usage with a sense and if nowhere near the limits I might crank it up later myself based on actual real world use patterns.

 

[larryj]

Can you post picture of your panel? 150amps is a weird number. Usually services are 100, 200, or 400/320 amps. (You might have a panel bus rated for that, but your service may only be 100a)

Doing actual load calcs is beyond most electricians and inspectors from what I can tell.

I personally am a fan of running wire sufficient for a 60a circuit let’s say (6awg in conduit) and putting in a 60a breaker, but then just cranking the wall connector down (with the rotary dial) to whatever setting is appropriate based on the load calcs. I believe this is code compliant. The benefit being that if you change anything (like convert dryer ton gas or something) you can just crank up the amps later.

Also, I probably would monitor my usage with a sense and if nowhere near the limits I might crank it up later myself based on actual real world use patterns.

The electrician said 150 was very odd. We're in a townhouse but I don't think that matters. The 100a possibility scares me.

I agree with your approach of going with a higher amp breaker and just dialing the WC down. I was going to start at 40a max.

 

[eprosenx]

The electrician said 150 was very odd. We're in a townhouse but I don't think that matters. The 100a possibility scares me.

I agree with your approach of going with a higher amp breaker and just dialing the WC down. I was going to start at 40a max.

View attachment 330624

Oh wow, you have a very “electric” house. Is your heat resistive electric heating? Or do you have heat pumps?

That looks like a pretty modern panel (with afci breakers) but that is extremely odd that it is only 150 amps.

Can you post pictures of the sticker on the door so we can read specs and also of the panel cover removed if you can do that safely? I am curious what size wires exit the panel and go to the street. I presume this is the only electrical panel in the house? No outside panel or anything also?

Tesla may be very correct in heavily limiting the allowed speed.

Though I still would do a 60a breaker and wire if I could get away with it with the inspector. Then I would get a “sense” unit and monitor my actual usage for a year to see what the House actually draws.

Was natural gas not available when the house was built?