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Phantom Drain > 10% Daily After Accident

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My Y was rear-ended a week ago at low speeds. The car drives and charges fine, with no errors. I will need a new hatch, bumper, and sensors + any internal damage. i have noticed that since the collision, i have phantom drain upwards of 10% daily. My Sentry and Cabin overheat protection is off. All doors lock, including the damaged hatch. Is this common? Has anyone faced this issue before? I do not see where the energy is going in the energy usage app anywhere.
 
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A shot in the dark here, but I believe a recent software update changed how the car monitors the health of the low voltage battery, and if it sees a problem it does not allow the car to go to sleep to ensure the car will "start." Do you see anything in the "alerts" window?
 
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A shot in the dark here, but I believe a recent software update changed how the car monitors the health of the low voltage battery, and if it sees a problem it does not allow the car to go to sleep to ensure the car will "start." Do you see anything in the "alerts" window?
Nothing on the alerts window. I have not updated the software after the accident so nothing apart from the collision has changed.
 
Sounds like something got damaged and it is not allowing the car to go to sleep. I suggest you schedule a service call with Tesla.
Thats exactly whats happened. Now i want to know if something is damaged if hey can just turn it off while the car gets fixed at the body shop or will tesla just waste my time and say use it as is until the collision work is done..
 
Thats exactly whats happened. Now i want to know if something is damaged if hey can just turn it off while the car gets fixed at the body shop or will tesla just waste my time and say use it as is until the collision work is done..
Strange, resolving it is probably gonna depend on the SC and their helpfulness. Having no issues in the log is not going to give them any obvious clues. If you're lucky they'll keep it for a day and acknowledge the not-sleeping thing, if that's what's happening, I assume that would qualify as an issue. I assume you don't have anything like TeslaFi hooked up - that will muddy the waters. And you've tried having sentry mode disabled? Better to do those things, even if they might not be the issue, to deal with the obvious first things to check before bringing it in.

Have you tried powering it totally down and restarting?
 
Strange, resolving it is probably gonna depend on the SC and their helpfulness. Having no issues in the log is not going to give them any obvious clues. If you're lucky they'll keep it for a day and acknowledge the not-sleeping thing, if that's what's happening, I assume that would qualify as an issue. I assume you don't have anything like TeslaFi hooked up - that will muddy the waters. And you've tried having sentry mode disabled? Better to do those things, even if they might not be the issue, to deal with the obvious first things to check before bringing it in.

Have you tried powering it totally down and restarting?

From what it sounds like, the OPs vehicle as not only had an accident, but not been repaired yet. I am going to be very surprised if anyone at tesla says anything other than "Yep, it looks like your car is not operating completely to specifications after the accident, we recommend you check again after the car is repaired to tesla specifications".
 
From what it sounds like, the OPs vehicle as not only had an accident, but not been repaired yet. I am going to be very surprised if anyone at tesla says anything other than "Yep, it looks like your car is not operating completely to specifications after the accident, we recommend you check again after the car is repaired to tesla specifications".
Right, didn't spot they hadn't had it repaired again. Assuming you're dropping it to a Tesla-approved repair place I'd mention this issue then.
 
Would it be worth it to disconnect the HV battery and LV battery? Obviously the car would not be able to be moved around on its own power but I would assume a collision shop is used to moving non-operational vehicles around on dollies.

Edit: I thought the car was sitting at the shop waiting for repair, but that looks not to be correct. I agree Tesla is unlikely to do anything until the rest of the car is repaired.
 
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Would it be worth it to disconnect the HV battery and LV battery? Obviously the car would not be able to be moved around on its own power but I would assume a collision shop is used to moving non-operational vehicles around on dollies.

Im sure any shop would be, but I dont believe that is what this OP is talking about. Since in another thread the OP discusses the accident and "the car drives fine" this isnt about the shop moving a car around, etc.

it appears to me that the OP has had an accident, the OP is still using the car, waiting for their appointment for repair, and since they cant plug it in for some reason or other is wondering why the car is not sleeping / draining power.

I doubt the OP wants to disconnect the battery and have it sit, since they are saying they are still using the the vehicle. I also doubt very very (very) much that any Tesla SC will even agree to look at the car, since the car is damaged, so any idea of something being "not normal" is easily hand waved away by them, saying "yes, its not working properly, it was in an accident, please check back with us after its repaired".

Since the OP appears to not be able to plug it in, they are now having to figure out charging more than they intend to, and are wondering if there is anything they can do.

Thats my reading on this thread, anyway.

I am fairly sure there is nothing Tesla will do, and engaging them will be a futile exercise until the car is repaired. OP could stop drain by doing what you say if they dont intend to drive the car (if I read into this wrong). Otherwise, its just "charge it more than you intended".
 
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Here are a couple of things to try:

  1. Power-off the car using “Safety & Security > Power-off” and see if the car stops losing the charge at an excessive rate. If it does this will give you something you can do every time you park the car - until the car goes to the shop.
  2. If #1 works, as a further test, after starting the car see if the problem has gone away as #1 might have reset the fault.
  3. If still no luck you can do a full shutdown of the car by disconnecting it from both the HV and LV batteries. Look up how to replace the low-voltage battery on YouTube and do everything it says, in the order given, except removing the low-voltage battery. Then give it some time and reconnect and see what happens.
 
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There is also something you can do between #2 and #3, go to “Service > Wheel Configuration” and change the size. The car should reboot, then change it back and it will reboot again. I have heard that changing the wheel size causes a deep reboot of the system. Certainly worth trying before going to step #3 above.

Good luck!
 
If you have rear parking sensors I wonder if they got damaged and might be sending false signals or the car is searching for a sensor and that is essentially keeping it awake all the time. 10% when the car is essentially idle per day seems about right.
 
Update: Tesla was able to remote in and see that a firmware update was pending and that the wifi kept trying to connect. They said the drainage was due to that and that turning off wifi will solve the issue. 🤞 this was the Service centers reply and they able to look at it remotely and even advised on cancelling the service appointment I had setup. I hope the matter resolves soon. Body shops are booked out for weeks and can't even take the car in.