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Planning to buy an used Model S (2021) & I need your help

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One of the local dealers has listed a 2021 Model S (PRE Refresh) with FSD - 10,500 miles.
I was able to negotiate on the price and arrive at $64K (preTax)

Couple of questions:
- Is this a good deal? I understand similar spec on Tesla's own used inventory goes for 70K+. Is the 7K-8K price difference worth the risk of buying from a third-party dealer?
- Checked the CarFax - the last entry was in July 2022 with 10,300 miles. This raises questions: What happened to the car in the past 10 months / why no history/miles?

First time Tesla buyer; Your guidance will help
Since you’re ready to spend $64k on a 2021 pre-refresh, I would definitely look for a 2021 refresh which shouldn’t be more than $5k-$10k more. Besides being a better car in every way, the refresh will hold its value so much better as well.
** and don’t worry about FSD. Autopilot works great.. I never had FSD (by choice) because it’s not true FSD yet..
When I can read a book or take a nap while my car drives me, then I’ll be happy to purchase FSD at any price.
 
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- Checked the CarFax - the last entry was in July 2022 with 10,300 miles. This raises questions: What happened to the car in the past 10 months / why no history/miles?

First time Tesla buyer; Your guidance will help
A 2021 pre-refresh is a tough sell after the release of the refresh and especially lately with the big price cuts. Why would anyone buy that car for $64k when they can just buy a used 2021 refresh ? And you got the dealer down to $64k so I assume they were asking close to $70k. That’s why it’s probably been on the lot for the past 10 months. It’s just a bad deal.
 
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A 2021 pre-refresh is a tough sell after the release of the refresh and especially lately with the big price cuts. Why would anyone buy that car for $64k when they can just buy a used 2021 refresh ? And you got the dealer down to $64k so I assume they were asking close to $70k. That’s why it’s probably been on the lot for the past 10 months. It’s just a bad deal.
Agreed! Doing a little research on Tesla price history charts will reveal that the sticker price for an LR+ Model S purchased new in December 2020 was only $69,420. So after 30 months of depreciation and 10K miles of use, a discount of only $5K is definitely not a great deal. The private selling dealer probably took this on trade for about $50K so he's looking at a $14K profit!

Note that this does not take into account the optional FSD which I believe was only $8K at that time.
 
//Agreed! Doing a little research on Tesla price history charts will reveal that the sticker price for an LR+ Model S purchased new in December 2020 was only $69,420. So after 30 months of depreciation and 10K miles of use, a discount of only $5K is definitely not a great deal. The private selling dealer probably took this on trade for about $50K so he's looking at a $14K profit!//

Very valid point that I completely missed.
I based my research purely on the price @ Tesla's inventory - which clearly means, Tesla themselves are selling these 2020/21 PRE-Refresh models for a price that is almost equal to the original price those were sold for, years back! Wow
 
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//Agreed! Doing a little research on Tesla price history charts will reveal that the sticker price for an LR+ Model S purchased new in December 2020 was only $69,420. So after 30 months of depreciation and 10K miles of use, a discount of only $5K is definitely not a great deal. The private selling dealer probably took this on trade for about $50K so he's looking at a $14K profit!//

Very valid point that I completely missed.
I based my research purely on the price @ Tesla's inventory - which clearly means, Tesla themselves are selling these 2020/21 PRE-Refresh models for a price that is almost equal to the original price those were sold for, years back! Wow
Never underestimate the power of Tesla to find a way to make the transaction as lopsided to their benefit as possible.

Friends don't let friends buy the last gen unless it is incredibly cheap. ;) For not much more, you'll have a car that looks "fresher" long and easier to resell if you ever want to get out of it. Now if I could buy a 2021 Model S performance, with low miles and very clean for 50k, I'd be a buyer and sell my 3 in a heartbeat.
 
Keep in mind that the latest MS refresh came about for valid business reasons with changes based on real-world owner experiences / feedback, newer technology, and other continuous improvements over its lifecycle. Introduced in 2012, it has endured 11+ years of production experience. There is no question that many changes were based on cost reduction, but overall, the consensus is that the refreshed S is a way better vehicle. That said, I would pass on a 'pre-refresh' if I was looking to buy a used MS even if it could save me a few dollars. That savings is quickly forgotten after ownership for a few weeks / months. Notice that features / technology being introduced in the MS are slowly trickling down to the M3, with only 6 years in production.
 
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Keep in mind that the latest MS refresh came about for valid business reasons with changes based on real-world owner experiences / feedback, newer technology, and other continuous improvements over its lifecycle. Introduced in 2012, it has endured 11+ years of production experience. There is no question that many changes were based on cost reduction, but overall, the consensus is that the refreshed S is a way better vehicle. That said, I would pass on a 'pre-refresh' if I was looking to buy a used MS even if it could save me a few dollars. That savings is quickly forgotten after ownership for a few weeks / months. Notice that features / technology being introduced in the MS are slowly trickling down to the M3, with only 6 years in production.
As someone who just bought a 'pre-refresh' MSP from Tesla, I'm not entirely sure I'd agree with your last few sentences. For me, I was ready to pull the trigger on the 2023 MS LR, but after a few price hikes and reading about the nerfed acceleration, I decided to focus on a M3P. Though after test driving, it was the S that I wanted.

I "settled" on a 2020 MS Performance from Tesla, with a build date of 3/2020. I've got almost 24 months of factory warranty left, plus battery + drive unit until 2028. I rarely keep cars longer than 2 years, so for me, the $62K (10k miles) I spent on this, I'm fairly confident this will tide me over til whatever is "next".
There are definitely deals to be had on late 20/21s that aren't refreshed, especially for folks who still want a wheel/stalks like I did.
 
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As someone who just bought a 'pre-refresh' MSP from Tesla, I'm not entirely sure I'd agree with your last few sentences. For me, I was ready to pull the trigger on the 2023 MS LR, but after a few price hikes and reading about the nerfed acceleration, I decided to focus on a M3P. Though after test driving, it was the S that I wanted.

I "settled" on a 2020 MS Performance from Tesla, with a build date of 3/2020. I've got almost 24 months of factory warranty left, plus battery + drive unit until 2028. I rarely keep cars longer than 2 years, so for me, the $62K (10k miles) I spent on this, I'm fairly confident this will tide me over til whatever is "next".
There are definitely deals to be had on late 20/21s that aren't refreshed, especially for folks who still want a wheel/stalks like I did.
Sounds like you got a good deal. It’s a tough call whether I’d choose a used 2020 S performance or a used refresh LR. That said, it’s not a tough decision comparing the pre-refresh LR to the refresh LR for a few thousand $ extra.
I loved my P100D so I’m a huge fan of the Model S Performance. Cheers 🍻
 
Sounds like you got a good deal. It’s a tough call whether I’d choose a used 2020 S performance or a used refresh LR. That said, it’s not a tough decision comparing the pre-refresh LR to the refresh LR for a few thousand $ extra.
I loved my P100D so I’m a huge fan of the Model S Performance. Cheers 🍻
Easy call for me on the pre-fresh P or re-fresh LR, LR all day long. Only place where the pre-fresh P is better is 0-60 and if you value performance. Above 40 mph, it is the LR all day long, and never fades. Not to mention all the other upgrades of the LR. The P isn't a bad car but they really got a lot of it right on the re-fresh.
 
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Easy call for me on the pre-fresh P or re-fresh LR, LR all day long. Only place where the pre-fresh P is better is 0-60 and if you value performance. Above 40 mph, it is the LR all day long, and never fades. Not to mention all the other upgrades of the LR. The P isn't a bad car but they really got a lot of it right on the re-fresh.
That’s a fair point. I never drove the refresh LR so I didn’t know it still pulls hard at higher speeds. You’re right about the pre-refresh (P100D/Performance) it’s crazy quick 0-60 but had nothing left above 70-80mph. Also, my P100D was super quick above 70% but noticeably slower at lower soc. I assume the refresh LR is similar to the plaid the way it still pulls hard as low as 20% soc.
 
Yes it maintains performance to a low SoC. The downside is you are looking at low 3's 0-60. But it will still run about that quick no matter even if you don't use the launch gimmicks such as cheetah mode, etc. Pack doesn't need to be warmed up. It is a great run what you brung car as the performance is very consistent across the performance spectrum.

It should be quicker to 60, but it it clearly software limited as 670 HP could easily get it to 60 quicker. From about 40 mph it is 750 super bike quick. It loses to the pre-fresh P to 60 mph by a lot, but by the end of the 1/4 it beats it and easily traps faster. It makes up it all up after 40 mph and has the best top end pull of any Tesla other than a Plaid. Go drive one and you'll see what I mean.
 
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Yes it maintains performance to a low SoC. The downside is you are looking at low 3's 0-60. But it will still run about that quick no matter even if you don't use the launch gimmicks such as cheetah mode, etc. Pack doesn't need to be warmed up. It is a great run what you brung car as the performance is very consistent across the performance spectrum.

It should be quicker to 60, but it it clearly software limited as 670 HP could easily get it to 60 quicker. From about 40 mph it is 750 super bike quick. It loses to the pre-fresh P to 60 mph by a lot, but by the end of the 1/4 it beats it and easily traps faster. It makes up it all up after 40 mph and has the best top end pull of any Tesla other than a Plaid. Go drive one and you'll see what I mean.
It looks like you had a LR and then switched to a plaid. Probably a dumb question but did you notice a big difference in performance (not just acceleration) between a LR and plaid ? Do the 2 cars have the same suspension ? Similar handling ? Cheers
 
It looks like you had a LR and then switched to a plaid. Probably a dumb question but did you notice a big difference in performance (not just acceleration) between a LR and plaid ? Do the 2 cars have the same suspension ? Similar handling ? Cheers
Good eye. Yes I did go from LR to Plaid. They are very similar cars as you might expect. Which is good/bad. I thought they should have done more to separate them at a trim level. Basically add a 3rd motor, wrap them all in carbon fiber, add on some minor trim differences like a CF wing, optional CF interior and basically you have the same car.

The one really significant change for me was something that wasn't offered initially on the Plaid when rolled out; track mode. You can read about it below from the owner's manual. Basically you can fine tune things between front and rear power delivery as well as just drive it like a drift car if you want. Nothing is stopping you from using it on the street though most of the benefit will be on the track. If you are canyon carving though I could see some real benefit, especially with torque vectoring.

In general driving, I think the LR handled better as it weighed less. Once playing with the track mode, it makes the Plaid feel like it shed a ton of weight.


I have absolutely no regrets about going with the Plaid. Like everything you get used to the performance. I keep in sport mode a lot which is basically like the LR but a little quicker to 60 when on the highway. When you have the LR in Insane mode or the Plaid in Plaid, it does a lot of stuff that uses up the battery to provide the best performance. On the highway I never had any complaints about the acceleration of the LR so it works out well. Sort of nice to flip between sport (LR's insane mode) and Plaid just to see the difference.
 
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Good eye. Yes I did go from LR to Plaid. They are very similar cars as you might expect. Which is good/bad. I thought they should have done more to separate them at a trim level. Basically add a 3rd motor, wrap them all in carbon fiber, add on some minor trim differences like a CF wing, optional CF interior and basically you have the same car.

The one really significant change for me was something that wasn't offered initially on the Plaid when rolled out; track mode. You can read about it below from the owner's manual. Basically you can fine tune things between front and rear power delivery as well as just drive it like a drift car if you want. Nothing is stopping you from using it on the street though most of the benefit will be on the track. If you are canyon carving though I could see some real benefit, especially with torque vectoring.

In general driving, I think the LR handled better as it weighed less. Once playing with the track mode, it makes the Plaid feel like it shed a ton of weight.


I have absolutely no regrets about going with the Plaid. Like everything you get used to the performance. I keep in sport mode a lot which is basically like the LR but a little quicker to 60 when on the highway. When you have the LR in Insane mode or the Plaid in Plaid, it does a lot of stuff that uses up the battery to provide the best performance. On the highway I never had any complaints about the acceleration of the LR so it works out well. Sort of nice to flip between sport (LR's insane mode) and Plaid just to see the difference.
Yeah I have used track mode on the streets a couple of times and the steering feel and regen are really a huge difference. I’ve never been to a track nor a 1/4 mile dragstrip.
I’ve launched my car only a few times in 28k miles but I drive in plaid mode 100% of the time. I’m more of a highway cruiser and definitely not a red light racer. The LR sounds like a great value IMO especially when there was a $40k price difference. Now it’s only $20k difference so Plaid all day.
 
Hope you find something that ticks all your boxes. The refresh is worth the wait. The S is a pretty amazing car in either variation. I just spent hours in mine and I can't think of many better places to be to eat up the miles. If you get a bit bored and have a little open road, just open it up a bit to get a bit of adrenalin rush.

Rinse and repeat as often as traffic and LEOs allow. Looking at my energy graph curve, there are some straight down areas like a stair step. I could tell it was where I was WFO for a bit. :cool:
 
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