PLEASE HELP MODEL S WONT START

[Tre Beasley]

i was driving my 2012 model s around during work and all of these popped up i just recently had the 12v battery replaced so im confused why im getting error codes for it

 

[brainhouston]

Most likely coolant in LDU

 

[Tre Beasley]

Most likely coolant in LDU

what exactly does that mean and what caused that

 

[Tre Beasley]

what exactly does that mean and what caused that

also i just recently had my motor replaced

 

[brainhouston]

what exactly does that mean and what caused that

Large Drive Units are known for leaking coolant seal that destroys the inverter/stator n u get isolation errors

also i just recently had my motor replaced

Check ur invoice, if u got -U version, then u should have rotor coolant bypass version n those are not gonna leak
U might have other issue like bad battery heater

If its any other reman unit, they're not very robust n fail too

if ur curious:

DIY Tesla Drive Unit Repair

Check the youtube channel I started about DIY repair of the Tesla Large Drive Unit (DU). This may benefit those who like to fix their car themselves, epecially if it's out of warranty. Here is the link: https://youtube.com/channel/UCIHg1trfQQTYIA88w-ZcCdw Background: The DU in my 2012 Toyota...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[Tre Beasley]

Most likely coolant in LDU

i also noticed that my ac no longer works found that be related

 

[brainhouston]

i also noticed that my ac no longer works found that be related

with BMS errors, contactors won't close so none of HV components will work
including ur 12v support so u should probably put 12v on charger/trickle if u haven't done it yet, it will die quick

 

[Tre Beasley]

with BMS errors, contactors won't close so none of HV components will work
including ur 12v support so u should probably put 12v on charger/trickle if u haven't done it yet, it will die quick

i’m pretty sure it’s dead and when i spoke to tesla they said i should be using a lead acid battery but when i originally had an issue i had switched to the lithium ion battery bc that’s what i was seeing online from ppl replacing the ones they had

 

[brainhouston]

i’m pretty sure it’s dead and when i spoke to tesla they said i should be using a lead acid battery but when i originally had an issue i had switched to the lithium ion battery bc that’s what i was seeing online from ppl replacing the ones they had

yes officially its lead-acid, ppl been using li-ion but i think software is not properly set up to handle it...

 

[Tre Beasley]

yes officially its lead-acid, ppl been using li-ion but i think software is not properly set up to handle it...

ok that makes sense so i got the car towed home and noticed the battery was loose could tightening it down fix everything or is there lingering issues i should be looking at

 

[brainhouston]

Unfortunately no, 12v has nothing to do with it
U could try to put the car in range mode (it won't use battery heater) n restart, that might be the only low chance possibility for temp fix
U need to find which HV component is shorting to ground...

 

[ATPMSD]

ok that makes sense so i got the car towed home and noticed the battery was loose could tightening it down fix everything or is there lingering issues i should be looking at

Problems with the 12v battery cause all kinds of problems and generate all kind of alerts. If tightening it down solved the problems you should be fine. BUT, you really should be using a 12v lead-acid battery and you should get that from Tesla parts. At the very least it will take the LV battery out of the equation .

Parts Catalog

 

[DerbyDave]

I agree root cause is the 12V battery. How old is it? If it is lithium, contact the manufacturer.

DI_u014_notOkToStartDrive
The Drive Inverter has detected that the 12V battery is not being adequately supported by the vehicle, which means the vehicle might lose 12V power while being driven.

To set this condition, one of the following must occur:

• The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) current is < 0A.
• The IBS voltage is < 12.9V.
• The GTW_12VState signal is in one of the following:
  • DCDC_NOT_ENABLING
  • 12V_NOT_SUPPORTED
  • BMS_MIA
  • FAULT_WAKE
  • DCDC_RETRY

 

[Tre Beasley]

I agree root cause is the 12V battery. How old is it? If it is lithium, contact the manufacturer.

DI_u014_notOkToStartDrive
The Drive Inverter has detected that the 12V battery is not being adequately supported by the vehicle, which means the vehicle might lose 12V power while being driven.

To set this condition, one of the following must occur:

• The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) current is < 0A.
• The IBS voltage is < 12.9V.
• The GTW_12VState signal is in one of the following:
  • DCDC_NOT_ENABLING
  • 12V_NOT_SUPPORTED
  • BMS_MIA
  • FAULT_WAKE
  • DCDC_RETRY

if i were to get all the errors fixed by tesla how much do you think they would quote me since i am out of warranty

 

[Tre Beasley]

if i were to get all the errors fixed by tesla how much do you think they would quote me since i am out of warranty

the 12v is lith-ion it’s less than a year old and the connectors that were sent with it make the car have a loose connection to the positive and negative cables so i’ve also been looking into what i can use to secure that connection as well

 

[Gtech]

if i were to get all the errors fixed by tesla how much do you think they would quote me since i am out of warranty

Like @brainhouston already mentioned a few times the car throws a external isolation fault so at this point any HV component or wire could be faulty except what is behind the contactors in HV batt. Your car need further diagnose about what is causing this ext iso fault.

So I think you need an iso meter and learn some basics on HV diagnosis or bring the car to Tesla or any other EV repair shop.

 

[FatFalcon]

External isolation is the root problem here people. That will kill the 12v and cause lots of other crazy alerts when the low voltage gets low.