Preventive eMMC replacement on MCU1

[dogphlap]

After 2 weeks of faultless operation approximately 6 hours after I posed the question "is it possible what I was attributing to a failing eMMC was just a symptom of a failing 12V battery ?" I could say that no, the 12V battery was not the cause of my problem since it was roughly then that the car refused to display a 'P' on the driver's display on 2 separate occasions after commencing to press the brake pedal after entering the car (I had to leave my foot on that pedal for a full 15 seconds before the 'P' was displayed). So changing the 12V battery had not in some miraculous way fixed my delay to show 'P' fault.

 

[Slexs]

Hello TMC!
This is my first post here, although i've been lurking here for quite some time trying to soak up all the useful information in this and other threads regarding eMMC replacement.

I own a 2014 MS 85, and it's my beautiful prized baby.
I haven't had any black screen issues, but my browser hasn't worked for some time.

As a preemptive measure, i'm planning out to do this replacement myself before the chip dies. Im a electronics engieering student about to do my bachelors degree, and this task seems like a really fun high-risk-high-reward assignment and my mentor was really excited about the idea.

I've plotted out steps to complete the swap, and i'll post it in rough terms here to keep it short.
Please do let me know if i've misunderstood the steps.

1. Unlock funk
2. Lower one window (so i don't get locked out after removing 12v/HV)
3. POWER OFF from MCU menu
4. Remove 12v battery connection
5. Pull HV battery loop connection (frunk)
6. Wedge trim/dashboard
7. Unscrew torx screws holding MCU in place
8. Tilt screen forwards, then remove cables attached to the back
9. Take MCU out of car, put face down on a bench with towels/antistatic
10. Remove plastic border and LCD screen (be careful with ribbon cables)
11. Remove daughter card, remove shroud and heatsink on daughtercard
12. Take a picture of HYNIX placement (id pin 1), and mark placement on board with pen (swissbit may have different size)
13. Attempt connection to HYNIX with prototype PCB board, pins connected directly to pins on HYNIX (BEFORE DESOLDER)
13b. Attempt to wire PCB prototype pins to Allsocket reader, and read with sudo ddrescue the data from HYNIX
14: If PCB prototype idea failed: desolder HYNIX with hot air, protect other components from heat.
15. Put HYNIX in allsocket , attempt data read with sudo ddrescue
16. If all partitions read succsessful, attempt to remount image to new SWISSBIT

I've written a long list of troubleshooting inbetween these steps if anything should fail along the way, but im trying to keep it short here.

Have i understood the procedure correctly?

As mentioned in the steps, i will attempt to mill a prototype PCB board with pins allowing me to connect the allsocket to the HYNIX without desoldering it (attempting to get the data out before desoldering as desoldering might damage/corrupt HYNIX).

 

[widodh]

Hello TMC!
This is my first post here, although i've been lurking here for quite some time trying to soak up all the useful information in this and other threads regarding eMMC replacement.

I own a 2014 MS 85, and it's my beautiful prized baby.
I haven't had any black screen issues, but my browser hasn't worked for some time.

As a preemptive measure, i'm planning out to do this replacement myself before the chip dies. Im a electronics engieering student about to do my bachelors degree, and this task seems like a really fun high-risk-high-reward assignment and my mentor was really excited about the idea.

I've plotted out steps to complete the swap, and i'll post it in rough terms here to keep it short.
Please do let me know if i've misunderstood the steps.

1. Unlock funk
2. Lower one window (so i don't get locked out after removing 12v/HV)
3. POWER OFF from MCU menu
4. Remove 12v battery connection
5. Pull HV battery loop connection (frunk)
6. Wedge trim/dashboard
7. Unscrew torx screws holding MCU in place
8. Tilt screen forwards, then remove cables attached to the back
9. Take MCU out of car, put face down on a bench with towels/antistatic
10. Remove plastic border and LCD screen (be careful with ribbon cables)
11. Remove daughter card, remove shroud and heatsink on daughtercard
12. Take a picture of HYNIX placement (id pin 1), and mark placement on board with pen (swissbit may have different size)
13. Attempt connection to HYNIX with prototype PCB board, pins connected directly to pins on HYNIX (BEFORE DESOLDER)
13b. Attempt to wire PCB prototype pins to Allsocket reader, and read with sudo ddrescue the data from HYNIX
14: If PCB prototype idea failed: desolder HYNIX with hot air, protect other components from heat.
15. Put HYNIX in allsocket , attempt data read with sudo ddrescue
16. If all partitions read succsessful, attempt to remount image to new SWISSBIT

I've written a long list of troubleshooting inbetween these steps if anything should fail along the way, but im trying to keep it short here.

Have i understood the procedure correctly?

As mentioned in the steps, i will attempt to mill a prototype PCB board with pins allowing me to connect the allsocket to the HYNIX without desoldering it (attempting to get the data out before desoldering as desoldering might damage/corrupt HYNIX).

Yes, you are very close! The only thing is ofcourse: Can you read the chip while it's still on the PCB? That's the main question!

If you put DC on the Tegra board you might wake up the CPU and that will block access to the eMMC.

If you de-solder the Hynix there is a very big chance the eMMC dies and you loose your VPN certificates.

 

[Slexs]

Yes, you are very close! The only thing is ofcourse: Can you read the chip while it's still on the PCB? That's the main question!

If you put DC on the Tegra board you might wake up the CPU and that will block access to the eMMC.

If you de-solder the Hynix there is a very big chance the eMMC dies and you loose your VPN certificates.

Thanks for your reply Widodh! I've followed your progress through these threads and you are a big inspiration for me in doing this

I've picked up info that the tegra will boot just above 2.8v, so with a regulated PS dialed in just below this, i hope to be able to retrieve data without waking up the tegra. Do you know any specs on the min I(DC) the tegra takes to boot?
If i do wake it up, i will increment the PS down until i reach a state where tegra dose not boot, but still enables me to read out data.

Since i'm new here i cant PM yet, but i'd love to discuss further steps with you if you're up for that!

 

[EV-Fixme]

I was under the impression my eMMC chip was starting to fail. The symptom that made me think that was that after entering the car and pressing on the brake pedal the 'P' would not always come up immediately as I'm used to, sometimes a delay would occur of 20 seconds or so (it varied) before the car would display the 'P', after which I could select 'D' or 'R' or 'N'. The whole problem was intermittent although it seemed most likely to occur after the car had sat overnight, plugged in, in my garage. It's summer here, the weather is always mild or hot.
However a fortnight ago I changed the ageing (at least 4.5 years old) 12V battery. I have not had the fault (described above) since.
Question: is it possible what I was attributing to a failing eMMC was just a symptom of a failing 12V battery ?

Do you have power saving features turned on?

 

[EV-Fixme]

Here’s a slightly unusual symptom of emmc failure. Prior to having mine replaced, I would often play 2048 on the mcu while waiting in car line to pick up the kids. Once the line started moving, I quickly exited the game, but it took like what seemed forever before the car would be ready to drive. A huge gap would open in front of me and people would be getting annoyed behind me.

After replacing the emmc, the car is ready to start instantly after quitting the game. Now I’m a good carline citizen.

Was it that game only, or any game? That is pretty werid?

 

[dogphlap]

Do you have power saving features turned on?

Energy saving is OFF, always connected is ticked.

 

[GlmnAlyAirCar]

Was it that game only, or any game? That is pretty werid?

Just one game; I never tried it with any others. So whatever is happening when exiting the game and getting the car ready to drive again is hitting the emmc pretty hard.

 

[dark cloud]

Just one game; I never tried it with any others. So whatever is happening when exiting the game and getting the car ready to drive again is hitting the emmc pretty hard.

And that is the reason I have not played any games in several months. Have not had a sudden crash, it boots up fast, not too much streaming issues, 3G rarely has issues, but after closing the arcade is when I see some issues with responsiveness. Had to reboot once also. It's not worth it; I will try again after upgrading the chip.

 

[widodh]

Thanks for your reply Widodh! I've followed your progress through these threads and you are a big inspiration for me in doing this

I've picked up info that the tegra will boot just above 2.8v, so with a regulated PS dialed in just below this, i hope to be able to retrieve data without waking up the tegra. Do you know any specs on the min I(DC) the tegra takes to boot?
If i do wake it up, i will increment the PS down until i reach a state where tegra dose not boot, but still enables me to read out data.

Since i'm new here i cant PM yet, but i'd love to discuss further steps with you if you're up for that!

I don’t know the exact specs, but I think 2.8V is indeed the limit. If the CPU does not wake up you should be able to read the eMMC that way.

 

[Slexs]

I don’t know the exact specs, but I think 2.8V is indeed the limit. If the CPU does not wake up you should be able to read the eMMC that way.

Have you or anyonr researched the judicial side of this replacement? Im getting anxious that tesla Will some how notice and lock me out or deny me future repair etc.

Do you or anyone else here have experienced with that? I imagine it would be hard to detect, im Just trying to make sure before i open up my MCU and start picking it apart.

 

[EV-Fixme]

Have you or anyonr researched the judicial side of this replacement? Im getting anxious that tesla Will some how notice and lock me out or deny me future repair etc.

Do you or anyone else here have experienced with that? I imagine it would be hard to detect, im Just trying to make sure before i open up my MCU and start picking it apart.

Most people doing this keep the emmc using the same size. The techs dont really have a tool to detect it, and would doubt if any sc would open you mcu to check before doing any repairs.

 

[widodh]

Have you or anyonr researched the judicial side of this replacement? Im getting anxious that tesla Will some how notice and lock me out or deny me future repair etc.

Do you or anyone else here have experienced with that? I imagine it would be hard to detect, im Just trying to make sure before i open up my MCU and start picking it apart.

They can't lock you out of repair I think. As long as you don't start trying to hack Tesla or anything else I don't think they really care.

I replaced my 8GB with a 64GB just to make sure it never dies on me again, but that's all.

You would need to have somebody from engineering with the right skills to figure this out. At the Service Center they can't see this.

 

[.jg.]

Have you or anyonr researched the judicial side of this replacement? Im getting anxious that tesla Will some how notice and lock me out or deny me future repair etc.

In Europe, anti-competition rules (Block Exemption) mean that a manufacturer could be in difficult legal territory if they "punished" an owner for having a third party repair. They could argue that non-original components are in some way bad - but they might then have to be able to prove this in court.

In fact, there's a fairly strong case that the original component chosen by Tesla/NVIDIA is not suitable for the Tesla application nor for their mode of use e.g. loads of logging. It is a consumer grade 8GB eMMC from Hynix, normally used in TVs e.g. Samsung. Hynix do have eMMCs for automotive use but the one used by Tesla/NVIDOA is not.

 

[Slexs]

Most people doing this keep the emmc using the same size. The techs dont really have a tool to detect it, and would doubt if any sc would open you mcu to check before doing any repairs.

They can't lock you out of repair I think. As long as you don't start trying to hack Tesla or anything else I don't think they really care.

I replaced my 8GB with a 64GB just to make sure it never dies on me again, but that's all.

You would need to have somebody from engineering with the right skills to figure this out. At the Service Center they can't see this.

In Europe, anti-competition rules (Block Exemption) mean that a manufacturer could be in difficult legal territory if they "punished" an owner for having a third party repair. They could argue that non-original components are in some way bad - but they might then have to be able to prove this in court.

In fact, there's a fairly strong case that the original component chosen by Tesla/NVIDIA is not suitable for the Tesla application nor for their mode of use e.g. loads of logging. It is a consumer grade 8GB eMMC from Hynix, normally used in TVs e.g. Samsung. Hynix do have eMMCs for automotive use but the one used by Tesla/NVIDOA is not.

Id have to do some research here, but they could be able to see via diagnostic the size of the flash drive? I doubt they do look for it, but in my eyes it shouldnt be much work. I agree on the 64gb for life time longevity, thats what im aiming for.

Indeed all thats done is copying the data they put in there, and just cloning it over to a New flash with much more room in it. Nothing is modified except the flash size, which wouldnt affect behaviour of the system in any way.

 

[.jg.]

but they could be able to see via diagnostic the size of the flash drive?

They could see the real size of the chip, if they went looking for this information but it would not be immediately obvious, if the partitions are the same sizes as before the eMMC replacement.

 

[X13osx]

I’ve had my MS 85 (End of April 2016 it has 4g Lte) for nearly 4 years 130,000 miles. Is there anyone in the U.K. that that can replace the eMMC chip so that I can save the car’s MCU from failing. I’m in the northeast. I’d travel to wherever is closest to get this issue fixed. Please help. Thank you.

Ps I haven’t read through all 36pages on here, I’m hoping there is somebody in the U.K. who can help.

 

[EV-Fixme]

I’ve had my MS 85 (End of April 2016 it has 4g Lte) for nearly 4 years 130,000 miles. Is there anyone in the U.K. that that can replace the eMMC chip so that I can save the car’s MCU from failing. I’m in the northeast. I’d travel to wherever is closest to get this issue fixed. Please help. Thank you.

Ps I haven’t read through all 36pages on here, I’m hoping there is somebody in the U.K. who can help.

@LuckyLuke is close to you
Consolidated eMMC Thread (MCU repair) here is the info you need

 

[Slexs]

Ive been offered a swapped out MCU from a friend that is close to emmc failure for 1200 bucks.

Im curious if its possible to boot the MCU on a Bech without a IC connected to it?

Has anyone tried supplying +12v to pin 7 and 8 on the Grey x426 connector and GNF to pin 9 and 10 on the x425 connector to boot it?

No point in buying it if it wont boot without IC, but if it Will it would be a nice test station to verify that datatransfer is succsessful.

 

[LuckyLuke]

Yes it can booted standalone: Lunars/tesla
$1200 is a bit overpriced if you ask me, you should be able to get one for half of that. Search ebay or contact salvage yards.