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Questions to ask when purchasing a used Model 3

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I found a private seller giving up his 2018 Long Range Model 3 for $44,500.

I'm going to meet up with him and the car (squeal) today, and want to make sure I'm looking for the right things/asking the right questions (other than "Why are you selling your car?!").

Here's what I know:
ENHANCED AUTOPILOT
Black Interior
Midnight Silver Metallic
19″ Sport Wheels
Long Range Battery
Premium Upgrades
RWD
Paint Protection clear coated wrap on the frontend and rear of the vehicle
NO ACCIDENTS
NO PETS
NO SMOKING
VEHICLE IS FINANCED

What else should I be asking? Looking for? Good deal or nah?
 
My personal opinion is the vin. Earlier cars had some issues that can be resolved. The later builds took care of these. Do some research there is information available. Not to say don't buy it but it may help you negotiate the price a little
 
Should add 14,500 miles on the car.

I found a private seller giving up his 2018 Long Range Model 3 for $44,500.

I'm going to meet up with him and the car (squeal) today, and want to make sure I'm looking for the right things/asking the right questions (other than "Why are you selling your car?!").

Here's what I know:
ENHANCED AUTOPILOT
Black Interior
Midnight Silver Metallic
19″ Sport Wheels
Long Range Battery
Premium Upgrades
RWD
Paint Protection clear coated wrap on the frontend and rear of the vehicle
NO ACCIDENTS
NO PETS
NO SMOKING
VEHICLE IS FINANCED

What else should I be asking? Looking for? Good deal or nah?
 
My personal opinion is the vin. Earlier cars had some issues that can be resolved. The later builds took care of these. Do some research there is information available. Not to say don't buy it but it may help you negotiate the price a little

I do have the VIN, not sure what to do with it to find out more information honestly. Any help on where to go with that happily accepted. He purchased January 2018.
 
My personal opinion is the vin. Earlier cars had some issues that can be resolved. The later builds took care of these. Do some research there is information available.
What info? I've been following the forum closely for over a year, and I'm not aware of any specific early VIN problems. I mean other than your standard sort of quality control things (which seem to still be common > 1yr later :rolleyes:).
 
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I would say that’s too expensive. The Tyson’s Corner store has a new 2019 RWD LR for 48k. Considering tax breaks, that would seem like a better deal. No EAP though.
 
I do have the VIN, not sure what to do with it to find out more information honestly. Any help on where to go with that happily accepted. He purchased January 2018.

The last six digits are the build number. For example, I have an 083XXX meaning my car was around the 83000th M3 built. They’re up in the 300 or maybe 400 thousands now. I don’t know the cutoff but maybe somewhere around 030000 and earlier had some issues and real early ones had interior differences, etc.
 
The last six digits are the build number. For example, I have an 083XXX meaning my car was around the 83000th M3 built. They’re up in the 300 or maybe 400 thousands now. I don’t know the cutoff but maybe somewhere around 030000 and earlier had some issues and real early ones had interior differences, etc.

Hmmm interesting. It is 001795, so I guess it is a really early one.
 
Should add 14,500 miles on the car.
- In how many months? not the same daily usage if it's 6 months or 18 months

- Where do you meet? At the owner place (good to check for any garage)? A public place?....

- How does the owner want to get pay? Check, certified check....

- Will the car still be driven by the owner after you saw the car, until you pay for the car, and get the access cards?

- Note: There should be two access cards.

- When do you need to renew the DMV sticker?

- Check the wear and tear of the tires (get a tire tread gauge) and uneven wear.

- Look at the 4 lifting areas under the car to see if there is any scratches or damages from using a jack without putting a hockey puck.

- Get information about maintenance (ever visited a Service Center ?)

- Are they charging at home or work? (Using a wall charger of the portable one?)

- Does the portable charger includes the 120 V and 14-50 adapter?

- How often A Supercharger was used (You can see the amount of dollars spent when clicking on the <> icon [to pop up Charging status]

- Aks then which SuperCharger they used or recommend.

- Is the car parked in a cover garage, open air parking lot, street parking?

- Idem for work location.

- Usage of the car: How many miles for commute, typical weekend activity (driving off road to go to a cabine..)

- Does they have kids, pets...

- Check the wear on the seat, test for all the electric seat motion.
The flat button in the middle (on the side of the seat) is to inflate a small balloon in the back of the seat)

- Check any glass, in particular roof for any cracks, even tiny (which might expand later)

- Check for any scratches on the headlights and fog light

- Does the front license is present? If so how is it attached?

- Test if your phone is detected for proximity to open and lock automatically.

- Does your phone allows you to make or receive phone call (Not working with my Galaxy Note 8)

- Check the original floor mats (they are very skinny) so may be they put some other floor mats.

- Check for scratches in the Frunk side (only the bottom has a floor mat) and check if the tow hook is present below the mat.

- Check if all the panels are correctly aligned: Put your finger at the intersection where panels joint, especially Frunk and Trunk.

- Check if chrome cover around the small rear window is aligned with the rear door (Good way to see if the windows was replaced)

- Ask to the owner to press on the brake and use the back up to check if all the lights are fine.

- Test if all the car proximity sensors are working: You need to move the car near an other car or a wall,
there should be some orange then red color lines on the picture of the car display and audible noise.

....

Well, you can search also for "New Car CheckList" in this forum.
 
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I’d pass.

You can get brand new car close to that. I think maybe less with tax breaks.

VIN’s are useless get the build date.

Sounds like an early 2018 before Tesla made a bunch of important changes. Suspension, seats, roof.

If you must get used get a late 2018.

And do your homework what the real cost is new.
 
Hi friends,

This is awesome intel. I love you all for it, thank you.
Some additional information:
My state only has a $2,500 tax credit.
To get these features in a new 2019 Model 3, it would be $13,500 more (see attached screenshot). If I were purchasing new, it would be less than that because I don't really care about the wheels or paint color. ‍♀️

Still down to hear your thoughts, as I'm not meeting with this guy for a few more hours.

What I really, really want is a Model X... But you might be able to guess that it was vetoed. The most important factors is that it is fuel-efficient, can self-park, will accommodate two car seats, isn't huge, and packed with tech. Oh, and pretty. The Model X will always be my dream car, but it looks like the Model 3 will do for now... And then if I have another kid hopefully we will have the resources for me to plead my case for the Model X.
 

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Hi friends,

My state only has a $2,500 tax credit.
To get these features in a new 2019 Model 3, it would be $13,500 more (see attached screenshot). If I were purchasing new, it would be less than that because I don't really care about the wheels or paint color. ‍♀️

You are comparing a used car with only EAP to a new car with FSD and V3 FSD hardware. To add FSD and V3 hardware to this used model would be an additional $8K. While EAP does have some additional features beyond AP it likely will not see any future enhancements as it is no longer sold by Tesla.

Also, it looks like you are comparing a used RWD model to a new AWD model. Big difference in price and performance.
 
Hi friends,

This is awesome intel. I love you all for it, thank you.
Some additional information:
My state only has a $2,500 tax credit.
To get these features in a new 2019 Model 3, it would be $13,500 more (see attached screenshot). If I were purchasing new, it would be less than that because I don't really care about the wheels or paint color. ‍♀️

Still down to hear your thoughts, as I'm not meeting with this guy for a few more hours.

What I really, really want is a Model X... But you might be able to guess that it was vetoed. The most important factors is that it is fuel-efficient, can self-park, will accommodate two car seats, isn't huge, and packed with tech. Oh, and pretty. The Model X will always be my dream car, but it looks like the Model 3 will do for now... And then if I have another kid hopefully we will have the resources for me to plead my case for the Model X.

Well you are comparing apples and oranges, a bit.

First Atlanta is part of the united states last I looked so you should still be eligible for $3750 Federal. Not everyone qualifies because they have to owe at least that much tax TOTAL (not what you owe at the end of the year) federal tax liability (what you paid in federal tax all year). Basically anyone not retired or works under the table should qualify.

You have $8K worth of AP/FSD on the car you configured.
The used one has $5K worth.

So take that $58K and subtract $3k to make a better comparison. You may want FULL FSD with either car.

So now you are down to $55K

Now subtract your $2500 tax credit.

Now your down to $52.5K

Now subtract federal (which I don't know if you will get, most people will) $48.75

So it's $48.75k brand shiny new, 0 miles, fresh tires all Tesla enhancements or a 15 month old for $46k

This is what most people would be comparing.

That used car is worth closer to $40K IMHO.

15K miles with those 19" OEM tires, RWD, I bet they are due to be replaced.

EDIT: I just saw the AWD Catch @OCR1 just made. You could get a new AWD for close to that used RWD. I believe RWD is about $5K cheaper (can be ordered off menu or look at inventory). But does not include AP for free. So it ends up $3K cheaper if you want AP. Less than a used RWD.
 
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You are comparing a used car with only EAP to a new car with FSD and V3 FSD hardware. To add FSD and V3 hardware to this used model would be an additional $8K. While EAP does have some additional features beyond AP it likely will not see any future enhancements as it is no longer sold by Tesla.

Also, it looks like you are comparing a used RWD model to a new AWD model. Big difference in price and performance.

Good Catch !! I was wondering why his numbers came out so high.
 
No EAP or Sport wheels

Wheels and EAP can easliy be fixed. It also has more expensive paint. It's still a WAY better deal than a 15 mo old 15K used RWD.

It may even have HW3 in it. Build date 4/19.

This used RWD isn't even close to a good deal.

BTW look at Ebay SOLD Listings (not Active or Completed, but SOLD) to see what used Model 3's are actually going for.

There is an old trick I use on eBay.

If it shows Best Offer and the price is crossed out, you can still figure out what was the amount agreed on.
If you keep adjusting your price limit in your search downward, the listing will disappear when you cross that threshold (at that agreed amount that is supposed to be hidden from public). Ebay idiot programmers.
 
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