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Real world alignment specs

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Service center rep mentioned the rears would be tough bc you can’t adjust the camber and caster well on the Y’s. Service center was my best option because there aren’t any local shops in NW Indiana, let alone around Chicago. Hoping my tires last 🤞

You can make some adjustments depending on what needs to be done, but you don't have a ton of range. Based on your sheet, it looks like they didn't want do do the extra work. I'd expect to see matched toe in/out for the front/rear of the car. Not what you have.
 
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Not a dumb question. You want slightly negative when the car is static so when you load the suspension, eg offramps, the tire has more contact and is more stable
thanks

you would think you would want positive camber when no one is in the car and as it fills and gets weighed down the tires go straight up
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Im asking for I am noticing on my MYP the inside edges of the rear tires are wearing, hence negative camber, like ive seen for years on BMWs
Due to no camber adjustment possible on the rear of the MYP, my rotation at the end of the month will be to unmount and flip the rear tires so the wearing edge moves to the outside
the fronts dont have this issue and therefore rotating side the side, the only option on the non square MYP

is there a problem with my rear suspension? when I purchased the vehicle i should have checked the rear camber, not sure why its not adjustable
lets assume it was perfect from the factory, is a bushing wearing causing the excessive negative camber?
 
thanks

you would think you would want positive camber when no one is in the car and as it fills and gets weighed down the tires go straight up
View attachment 1027212

Im asking for I am noticing on my MYP the inside edges of the rear tires are wearing, hence negative camber, like ive seen for years on BMWs
Due to no camber adjustment possible on the rear of the MYP, my rotation at the end of the month will be to unmount and flip the rear tires so the wearing edge moves to the outside
the fronts dont have this issue and therefore rotating side the side, the only option on the non square MYP

is there a problem with my rear suspension? when I purchased the vehicle i should have checked the rear camber, not sure why its not adjustable
lets assume it was perfect from the factory, is a bushing wearing causing the excessive negative camber?

That's why you align the car with a weight. Race cars will corner balance their cars, street cars don't really benefit. The Tesla manual actually specifies a ballast to be used to hit their alignment numbers.

I have no idea what is on your car, so it's hard to say. -1.5 degrees isn't crazy; compare it to the X where you'd see 2x that!
 
That's why you align the car with a weight. Race cars will corner balance their cars, street cars don't really benefit. The Tesla manual actually specifies a ballast to be used to hit their alignment numbers.

I have no idea what is on your car, so it's hard to say. -1.5 degrees isn't crazy; compare it to the X where you'd see 2x that!
guys, concerned about excessive inner rear tire wear with my MYP, had Tesla do the alignment while I had no drive straight issues
here is what happened
1st no computer printout of the alignment spec for bef and after, terrible as legacy mechanics always give you that
2nd negative camber statement by me, they said, yeah all MYPs have that, WTF...can someone with a MYP show a photo from the rear illustrating your camber angle if present?
3rd talked to the service tech on after-market adj camber arms on the MYP, he said they wont align if they are installed, then where to go?
4th alignment for driving straight was perfect, no complaints

my estimation, for performance and handling goals by Tesla, the MYP has a purposeful negative rear camber design
wish I would have noticed this at purchase
I like the performance and handling of the MYP, but conflicted with the short rear tire life
what are the teams thoughts?
 
guys, concerned about excessive inner rear tire wear with my MYP, had Tesla do the alignment while I had no drive straight issues
here is what happened
1st no computer printout of the alignment spec for bef and after, terrible as legacy mechanics always give you that
2nd negative camber statement by me, they said, yeah all MYPs have that, WTF...can someone with a MYP show a photo from the rear illustrating your camber angle if present?
3rd talked to the service tech on after-market adj camber arms on the MYP, he said they wont align if they are installed, then where to go?
4th alignment for driving straight was perfect, no complaints

my estimation, for performance and handling goals by Tesla, the MYP has a purposeful negative rear camber design
wish I would have noticed this at purchase
I like the performance and handling of the MYP, but conflicted with the short rear tire life
what are the teams thoughts?

If you’re worried about tire wear buy adjustable arms and have and stop using Tesla. Have you done the math to see tire vs adjustable arms? You might be surprised. If you adjust your alignment you car will handle differently.
 
Yep, adjustable arms will fix the problem, but it also extends your break-even point way into the future.

It's usually cheaper to just keep buying tires. The adjustable arms, plus an alignment might run $500-600 depending on your shop. (Most charge more for custom alignments) That $500-600 could be two new rear tires. Or four tires if you get a set of Sailun ERange tires. 😄
 
Tesla setup the LR for good tire wear and handling with just the right amount of suspension travel. Then they lowered the performance and screwed most of that up. So they just changed the specs to reflect where the performance sits with a huge range. Unloaded battery clearance should be 166mm and mine was 150mm.
Rear should be no more than -0.8 for street driving as it will squat and add almost a full degree during a launch. My stock MYP with me in it and a sub in the trunk has -2 deg of camber. I just ordered some camber arms as I like expensive tires and want max life/handling. I also installed coil overs to raise the car back to stock ride height.
 
ok, adj camber arms, which are the best?
Tesla setup the LR for good tire wear and handling with just the right amount of suspension travel. Then they lowered the performance and screwed most of that up. So they just changed the specs to reflect where the performance sits with a huge range. Unloaded battery clearance should be 166mm and mine was 150mm.
Rear should be no more than -0.8 for street driving as it will squat and add almost a full degree during a launch. My stock MYP with me in it and a sub in the trunk has -2 deg of camber. I just ordered some camber arms as I like expensive tires and want max life/handling. I also installed coil overs to raise the car back to stock ride height.
Im with you on long landing expensive tires, if just installing the MPP camber arms, what alignment numbers do I follow? does MPP supply any?
 
I got the MPP arms. They seem like one of the best. I'm also going to get the front lower control arm bearings when mine start to wear out.
What do you want out of your alignment? Are you doing a ton of miles in a straight line or pushing it in the corners more?
The more you corner the more camber you need and the more cornering grip you will have.
A nice starting point for a street car:
Camber -0.7-to -0.8 front and rear. You can tune the balance with more camber on the end that losses traction first. Also if all you care about is wear a -0.5 is a little better. For street performance you can push up to -1.5 +-.3 for balance. For track I've gone up to almost -3.
Zero toe front and zero to 0.05 in on the rear. This is best for wear and efficiency, but can make the car feel less stable as it is more willing to change direction. A little toe in on rear can stabilize the car.

When you launch the car you compress the rear suspension and it adds -1/1.5 to the static camber. This is what destroys rear tires.

The rear spring rate is way too soft and basically rides on the bumpstops at all times. This is the main problem with the ride quality. The overall geometry is really good if you raise up the ride height and gain some compression travel.

Tesla specs
 
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You need at least -.5 or you will wear the outside edge
got it, thanks
think my plan is, ride out the miles of my current Mich PAS4+s, sticking with the Tesla rear arms, note the worn tire miles number
change the arms to MPP with the setting -0.5, install the new PAS4+s, see how the miles go, and of course the handling
if a happy camper at that point, the MPP solution is solid