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Redwood Ohlins coilovers vs KW Variant 3 coilovers

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For a test drive of another car with Ohlins dampers, you guys could test a Polestar 2 with the performance pkg (assuming you have a Polestar "gallery" anywhere near you). Not apples to apples of course, but at least another data point. I will note that virtually all the reviewers felt the Ohlins equipped Polestar 2 rode too firm even when calibrated to full soft.
 
For a test drive of another car with Ohlins dampers, you guys could test a Polestar 2 with the performance pkg (assuming you have a Polestar "gallery" anywhere near you). Not apples to apples of course, but at least another data point. I will note that virtually all the reviewers felt the Ohlins equipped Polestar 2 rode too firm even when calibrated to full soft.
I test drove a Polestar 2 Performance Pack twice. Smoother ride than 2021 Model 3. Also much better suspension control at the same time, and quicker turn-in, and much quicker to settle in turns. Really head and shoulders higher quality suspension than M3P/M3LR, better ride and better handling at the same time, both by a large amount.

I don't know what damper adjustment settings that test car was on, but it felt Goldilocks right to me.

Yes the P2P understeers at the limit and doesn't like to power oversteer the way a Model 3 does. The P2 power delivery feels more like Subaru or Audi fulltime AWD than the Model 3's heavy rear-bias. Some reviews knock the P2P's handling for that, but in terms of suspension control and refinement it's in another league from a stock Model 3.

The other thing is if you only drive the cars casually then a Model 3 feels more sporty, because the ride is busier and the steering ratio is quicker, and the accelerator map is more sensitive. But push them hard enough, especially over rough roads, and the P2P just feels better and better while a stock M3P or M3LR becomes sloppy in comparison.
 
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My P2P test drives are literally why I ordered Redwood Öhlins for my M3P. I want that level of suspension control.

I almost bought a P2P. Even had a deposit placed and a car assigned. There's a lot I like about that car. Also a lot I like about the M3P of course. It was a tough decision. I'm glad I went with the M3P but I am wanting to improve its suspension. (Even though it's already super fun out of the box. Just it could be even better. :))

Edit: Even my wife felt the P2P's better suspension clearly and that's why she approved putting Öhlins DFV on our M3P. (Still waiting on them, Öhlins USA is super backlogged. Redwood has the rest of the parts ready for my kit but not the dampers themselves yet.)
 
Also since this is a Model Y subforum...the difference vs a Model Y is even more stark. I think CUVs are just at a fundamental suspension disadvantage vs smaller, lower cars.

I wouldn't expect even well-tuned Öhlins DFV to bring P2P level suspension refinement to a Model Y (not any other damper option), but it should be way better than stock!
 
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lol, feeling is one thing however track testing confirms the opposite of all that feeling so you have to keep in context man.
I wasn't shopping for a track car. Model 3 has quicker acceleration and that's primarily where its quicker lap times come from. (Polestar 2 dual motor is no slouch though, its acceleration was quick enough for me.) The Model 3's lower weight helps handling in fundamental ways too.

No doubt the Model 3 is a better starting point for building up a track car but that isn't relevant to my usage of this car.
 
What is the difference between the KW Variant 3 TVR-A (Twin Valve Rebound - Adjustable) technology for their coilovers and the Redwood Motorsports Ohlins with Dual Flow Valve (DFV) technology?

Redwood Motorsports definitely have a comfort version, but it's not clear if the KW coilovers are adjustable to a comfort version, but the text seems to indicate it.

And while the Ohlins can be adjusted without removing the tires, it is not clear to me how easy the KW can be adjusted.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The KW/MPP are easy to adjust. All you have to do is drive one wheel on a ramp or go crooked up a driveway so one wheel is on the incline and the other is on the street. In doing so, you'll have gobs of droop on one side while the other is compressed. With that much gap you can put your arm in there to adjust the rebound settings. Then move the car swap sides on the driveway so you can access the other side. Most people will leave the compression settings alone once it's dialed.
 
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I’m still curious how the Ohlins will hold up after 15k miles. I had OhlinsDFV on an Evolution X. After 15k miles the front would make a click sound. Some sort of bushing would go bad inside. I would hate to have to remove the Ohlins off the Tesla to have them rebuilt every 15k or more.
 
I’m still curious how the Ohlins will hold up after 15k miles. I had OhlinsDFV on an Evolution X. After 15k miles the front would make a click sound. Some sort of bushing would go bad inside. I would hate to have to remove the Ohlins off the Tesla to have them rebuilt every 15k or more.
@Cypcode I'm at about 2.5k miles on mine so far. I'll keep you posted. ;) I'll start racking up the miles quicker at some point.

I wonder if there was something specific about the Evo X application to cause that issue in only 15k miles. Öhlins DFV are a factory option on some cars, including another EV (Polestar 2), so I would think they should last longer than you experienced. I doubt any car maker would keep offering them if they were having to be rebuilt in the car's warranty period!
 
@Cypcode I'm at about 2.5k miles on mine so far. I'll keep you posted. ;) I'll start racking up the miles quicker at some point.

I wonder if there was something specific about the Evo X application to cause that issue in only 15k miles. Öhlins DFV are a factory option on some cars, including another EV (Polestar 2), so I would think they should last longer than you experienced. I doubt any car maker would keep offering them if they were having to be rebuilt in the car's warranty
@Cypcode I'm at about 2.5k miles on mine so far. I'll keep you posted. ;) I'll start racking up the miles quicker at some point.

I wonder if there was something specific about the Evo X application to cause that issue in only 15k miles. Öhlins DFV are a factory option on some cars, including another EV (Polestar 2), so I would think they should last longer than you experienced. I doubt any car maker would keep offering them if they were having to be rebuilt in the car's warranty period!
Performance Shock Inc at Sonoma raceway CA rebuilt them twice for me. It could also be where the suspension was made. They said that not all are made equally. Some are made in other countries with cheaper parts 🤷‍♂️. They said they should last longer, but when I dug into the Ohlins manual, I believe it said to have them serviced around 12k miles. Only the fronts would need rebuilding. The rears were fine.
 
Performance Shock Inc at Sonoma raceway CA rebuilt them twice for me. It could also be where the suspension was made. They said that not all are made equally. Some are made in other countries with cheaper parts 🤷‍♂️. They said they should last longer, but when I dug into the Ohlins manual, I believe it said to have them serviced around 12k miles. Only the fronts would need rebuilding. The rears were fine.
@Cypcode Evo X is struts up front but not in the rear, right? Maybe some aspect of the Evo X DFV kit wasn't well-specified for the front strut application. Just a guess. Did Performance Shock note any specific issues they saw upon teardown?

Also...just to check...are you sure it wasn't your front top hats that were wearing out that quick? I assume on the Evo you were running pillowballs. (Okay okay I'm sure you can figure out the difference between damper and bearing noises...but figure I'll ask just in case! :))
 
For anyone still searching this thread, I swapped out the MPP Sport coilovers on my M3P with the Redwood Ohlins last weekend and I can give my thoughts.

First, I should mention I didn't have a problem with the MPP coils at all. I really enjoyed their ride, but the problem is they were just too low at their recommended heights for my (and the wife's) comfort, and you can't raise them more than a little without a lift. I tried raising it to a point well below where I currently have the Redwoods and the ride got quite bad. Honestly, it was fine with 1 or 2 people if careful, but pretty much every drive we took with 4 people included bottoming out somewhere.

The main difference I notice with the Redwoods is that their 11k springs are firmer than whatever MPP is using. Fronts seem similar enough (8k) but the rears are definitely firmer. When I originally installed the MPP's I felt like they softened up a bit after a few weeks so it's possible the same might happen on the Ohlins and I'll update if so. I've got MPP's front LCA bushings and the car really does handle wonderfully, and with the firm springs and added clearance it's all very secure feeling at speed. Honestly though, I would probably prefer the Redwoods with 10k springs. I'll try to update in a few weeks - which will include my alignment tomorrow, which is pretty badly needed since I'm up to about 385mm front and back vs something like 345mm with MPP.

As for the DFV, I can't say I notice that over the firmer springs.

One other thing: I bought the remote front adjusters with the Redwoods, and the rears are definitely reachable without jacking or removing a wheel. I don't have terribly long arms and have pretty poor shoulder and wrist flexibilty but had no problem at all reaching under and making adjustments. Nice being able to actually make adjustments on the fly.

Now to see if anyone needs some used MPP Sport coils with 5,500 miles on them :)
 
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For anyone still searching this thread, I swapped out the MPP Sport coilovers on my M3P with the Redwood Ohlins last weekend and I can give my thoughts.

First, I should mention I didn't have a problem with the MPP coils at all. I really enjoyed their ride, but the problem is they were just too low at their recommended heights for my (and the wife's) comfort, and you can't raise them more than a little without a lift. I tried raising it to a point well below where I currently have the Redwoods and the ride got quite bad. Honestly, it was fine with 1 or 2 people if careful, but pretty much every drive we took with 4 people included bottoming out somewhere.

The main difference I notice with the Redwoods is that their 11k springs are firmer than whatever MPP is using. Fronts seem similar enough (8k) but the rears are definitely firmer. When I originally installed the MPP's I felt like they softened up a bit after a few weeks so it's possible the same might happen on the Ohlins and I'll update if so. I've got MPP's front LCA bushings and the car really does handle wonderfully, and with the firm springs and added clearance it's all very secure feeling at speed. Honestly though, I would probably prefer the Redwoods with 10k springs. I'll try to update in a few weeks - which will include my alignment tomorrow, which is pretty badly needed since I'm up to about 385mm front and back vs something like 345mm with MPP.

As for the DFV, I can't say I notice that over the firmer springs.

One other thing: I bought the remote front adjusters with the Redwoods, and the rears are definitely reachable without jacking or removing a wheel. I don't have terribly long arms and have pretty poor shoulder and wrist flexibilty but had no problem at all reaching under and making adjustments. Nice being able to actually make adjustments on the fly.

Now to see if anyone needs some used MPP Sport coils with 5,500 miles on them :)
If you like riding at stock height the Ohlins is the only choice due to it's dual height adjustable bodies which can raise /lower w/o affecting stroke to a certain point. A single height adjustable shock like the KW/MPP will lose all its stroke when raised to the max. However the flipside is also true, if you like riding low, the Ohlins turns into a fixed perch, because it cannot use the bodies to lower after X point, so it has to be adjusted exactly like a single adjustable to prevent the body from going too low, aka crashing against the battery. I've posted this info before, though looking back not in this thread. Anyways, regarding your ohlins bodies, keep them clean and salt free considering your location. I suggest ya look into coilover covers as well.
 
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