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Refreshed Model S - rear seat rattle
- Thread starter ahyeps
- Start date
Zoro
Member
I too had rattle issues with the back seat. Took it to the Houston SC the first time and they put the hammer to the latch (literally - per technician). That fixed the problem for a few days and then it was back. Second trip to the same SC and the technician said they would have to order parts, but he wasn't sure which to order (!!??!). They gave me a third appointment 3 weeks later, in July.
Thanks to all TMC members for their postings on the rattle problem. I tried to use the electrical tape solution and it failed on my car. Then I tried using something more robust - some leftover wire binding/wrapping plastic coil (see photo). It was purchased from HomeDepot for another DIY project. This solution worked for a few days and then the rattle reappeared. Upon inspection, it appeared that the back seat latching mechanism had "chewed through" the thick plastic material.
My latest fix was to use a piece of leftover PVC tubing. I used a piece that was just long enough to cover the horizontal section of the latch loop. The photos will explain much better than my description. The tubing was slit along the length and then fit on the loop. Note that the tubing diameter was not ideal, so there is a gap along the length on the rear side. So far the fix has worked very well. NO SOUND from the back seats! Yes, this solution is temporary but then I still have several feet of PVC tubing leftover to use as replacement if needed.
Keeping fingers crossed that Tesla SC comes through with an appropriate replacement part.
Thanks to all TMC members for their postings on the rattle problem. I tried to use the electrical tape solution and it failed on my car. Then I tried using something more robust - some leftover wire binding/wrapping plastic coil (see photo). It was purchased from HomeDepot for another DIY project. This solution worked for a few days and then the rattle reappeared. Upon inspection, it appeared that the back seat latching mechanism had "chewed through" the thick plastic material.
My latest fix was to use a piece of leftover PVC tubing. I used a piece that was just long enough to cover the horizontal section of the latch loop. The photos will explain much better than my description. The tubing was slit along the length and then fit on the loop. Note that the tubing diameter was not ideal, so there is a gap along the length on the rear side. So far the fix has worked very well. NO SOUND from the back seats! Yes, this solution is temporary but then I still have several feet of PVC tubing leftover to use as replacement if needed.
Keeping fingers crossed that Tesla SC comes through with an appropriate replacement part.
Attachments
Which Houston SC? Westchase / Westheimer was able to fix my rear drivers side by adjusting the striker. But I think they tried that on the passenger side and or took a hammer to it and basically broke the latching in the process. The thing rattles sitting still at this point - it is god awful. In a similar situation, have a service appointment that has been pushed two times already and hoping that parts arrive in time for my next Thursday appointment. We shall see. If so, I will post here whatever parts they replaced to resolve the noise.
Never tried the tape or tubing. Just been dealing with it. Which was hell on my drive to Dallas a few weeks back.
Zoro
Member
It was the Westheimer SC. My new parts appointment is in two weeks. Fingers crossed.
I took mine in and they said the unit cannot be adjusted and they’ve ordered new seats. Clearly a flaw affecting most refreshed S.
lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
How's the PVC tubing holding up? I've used some left over PPF and it's still working for now but as I put the seat down I definitely see some wear on it.
zoomer0056
Active Member
Maybe a spacer on the backside will put pressure on the latch. Kind of like that window spacer some have found. Ask them to direct you to the spacer department. You'll probably see a TMC member working the counter. They probably get a lot of inspiration from this forum.
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Zoro
Member
Reply to REal: The PVC tubing does not last longer than a couple weeks, even without flipping the seats. The latch 'eats' through it.
Anyway, I took the model S to the SC in Houston for the third time(!!). Initially they said they would replace the rear seat back rest, however, they ended up replacing just the latch mechanism on the left side behind the driver. They said that the right side was okay. This was surprising to me, but the end result was good. No sound from the rear seats - so far. Now the focus has shifted to noise from the dashboard in front on the driver side. After an extended test drive, the technician (I rode along) concluded that it was emanating from the white plastic panel that runs the entire length of the dashboard (bottom). They have given me a follow up service appointment to replace this panel at the end of the month (they are backed up). Keeping fingers crossed, that they can resolve these noise issues one by one.
Anyway, I took the model S to the SC in Houston for the third time(!!). Initially they said they would replace the rear seat back rest, however, they ended up replacing just the latch mechanism on the left side behind the driver. They said that the right side was okay. This was surprising to me, but the end result was good. No sound from the rear seats - so far. Now the focus has shifted to noise from the dashboard in front on the driver side. After an extended test drive, the technician (I rode along) concluded that it was emanating from the white plastic panel that runs the entire length of the dashboard (bottom). They have given me a follow up service appointment to replace this panel at the end of the month (they are backed up). Keeping fingers crossed, that they can resolve these noise issues one by one.
Thanks I was going to try the PVC but seem like I may just have to create another service appt. So the true fix is replacing the actual latch on the seat itself. Good luck with the dashboard sound, from my experience the more things they take apart the higher chance of something else breaking. I'm still waiting on my check from Tesla for damage to my window tint from a repair they did.
Nosken
Active Member
I had a similar Rattle that turned out to be one of the connectors under the wireless charging panel. There is a black "Flocked" adhesive tape that needs to be wrapped around the wire.
The way I found this out is, I was looking for a power source, and read, that there was a way under there. The charging pad is easy to lift up. I decided to not use that source, so I pushed it back down, remembering to use the black fabric tape.
A couple weeks later, the Tesla SC replaced that charging pad for a cosmetic issue with the charging pad, noted at delivery.
As I drove home from service, I heard a very distinct rattle, that sounded like it was in the dash, or even on the surround for the center screen. I was not happy, because the car had been pretty rattle free.
Just for fun, I lifted the charging pad, and I saw that the one wire, over the top had not been wrapped up when service replaced it. I secured it.....now no rattle!!!!
scrapps
Member
Zoro
Member
Yes, the invoice says: 2nd Row 60 Latch 1505383-00-D. I believe that the 60 refers to the back seat being 60:40 split, and the new part / latch is on the 60 side (behind the driver). Hope this helps.
lbowroom
Plaid, white on black, CF, 8/27/21, Track Pack
Thank you so much! It was driving me nuts. Not sure if I should have the service center still take a look? Hoping they don’t make it worse. But the noise is completely gone now !
Hi - did that end up fixing the squeaking noise for good? I think I would need both side latches replaced.
vcor
Tech Specialist
Ok, had the rattle on the driver's side, but I fixed mine by sticking some thick foam in the open U bolt so that it pressed the rear seat away from the latch slightly.
While in for service for an unrelated problem I now suspect I created, I had them replace the latch with the new design. You can tell as the U bolt changes from silver to black. The new part number is 1505383-00-D. That worked for several weeks, then the rattle was back.
Stuffed the foam back in the U bolt and it's been fine ever since. Anyway, the "-D" part doesn't seem to do the job so we'll have to wait for another revision. I wouldn't bother with service unless they have a newer revision.
While in for service for an unrelated problem I now suspect I created, I had them replace the latch with the new design. You can tell as the U bolt changes from silver to black. The new part number is 1505383-00-D. That worked for several weeks, then the rattle was back.
Stuffed the foam back in the U bolt and it's been fine ever since. Anyway, the "-D" part doesn't seem to do the job so we'll have to wait for another revision. I wouldn't bother with service unless they have a newer revision.
@vcor, can you explain depth of foam you used? The tape on mine is not preventing rattle so I just added this.
zoomer0056
Active Member
That looks like a very good and long lasting fix.
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