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Removing interior door panel?

Raven

Member
Oct 9, 2012
295
19
US
So my driver's window went down and won't come back up. Lucky me, I just went out of warranty. Anyone that has the know-how to do this, please let me know. I'm sure it's not that difficult, I just don't want to break anything.
 

Raven

Member
Oct 9, 2012
295
19
US
Well it was incredibly easy to take the panel off. However, window motor seems to be messed up. Now when the door closes and the window would go up a touch for a solid seal, the window now goes down and inch and then is no longer operational. The motor runs(like it's grinding something) but the window now neither goes up nor down. Can these motors chew the glass?
 

cab

Active Member
Sep 5, 2013
1,029
714
Grapevine, TX
Usually, the motor is connected to a rail or bracket that the window itself mounts to. On many cars when a power window stops working it can be:

1. Window motor goes out entirely - no noise/movement/etc.
2. A slider (often plastic) the window rides up and down on has broken (perhaps due to a lack of lubrication on a rail or just cheap plastic) - usually this manifests as a tilting window, etc.
3. Motor gear strips - this usually manifests as noise w/o movement or partial movement if just some of the teeth strip.
4. Some other part of the raising mechanism is messed up - depending the car it could be some combination of direct drive or cables, etc. The motor may run w/o movement.

Did you take the silver metal panel off once you got the door panel off in order to see inside the door cavity. Since the motor never touches the glass itself. It won't grind it, BUT with these frameless doors you could get into a situation where a window is fully up when you try to open it and it gets blocked by frame on body. The ugliest scenario occurs when a door window freaks out, is raised fully when OPEN and you shut the door slamming the glass into the body...oops.
 

Raven

Member
Oct 9, 2012
295
19
US
For those interested, the cable for the regulator got bound up inside the motor and messed things up. $220 for a new regulator, $85 labor for Tesla to put it in. Not bad at all and totally worth it. It's not a very fun space to try to work in so it was well worth $85 to have someone else do it.
 

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