Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

[satoshi]

oh heavens, thank goodness you are here then!! Why don't you post a link to your Tesla kickstarter here so you can get it funded and show me how its done?

Well to start, how did knowingly turning on and off salt-water damaged electronics go for ya?

Next, don't ask for information you don't want to hear then. You wanted to know what's going through people's minds, buzzkill as it may be, that is what is going through my mind.

The next thing on my mind is that I hope you are wearing proper high voltage safety gear while doing anything near that battery...

Please also be careful not to short any of the cells, nobody wants you to burn down your house, garage, and/or neighborhood.

Seriously, set aside your ego for a moment and realize, this isn't something you go hacking at recklessly ("going animal mode on the top cover") like you mentioned a few posts back.

 

[jaguar36]

I think this is a fantastic project, and you're making great progress for the small amount of time you've invested.

Contrary to some I don't think you're being overly reckless at all. Gotta do stuff that's fun or there is no point in the project. Even if there was a small chance that you could have saved a module or two by not powering it up I don't think it matter in the long run. You're going to need to buy another parts car to do this anyway and then you'll have a full set of electronics. Even if one of the flood modules could have been salvaged (which I think is a stretch) it would be prudent to replace it with a 'clean' one anyway so you didn't really lose anything.

Just remember that most folks who say it can't be done, really mean that they couldn't do it.

 

[Btr_ftw]

Well to start, how did knowingly turning on and off salt-water damaged electronics go for ya?

Next, don't ask for information you don't want to hear then. You wanted to know what's going through people's minds, buzzkill as it may be, that is what is going through my mind.

The next thing on my mind is that I hope you are wearing proper high voltage safety gear while doing anything near that battery...

Please also be careful not to short any of the cells, nobody wants you to burn down your house, garage, and/or neighborhood.

Seriously, set aside your ego for a moment and realize, this isn't something you go hacking at recklessly ("going animal mode on the top cover") like you mentioned a few posts back.

I had to weigh my options with the car. I didn't want to potentially damage anything to the body/paint/glass when trying to enter the vehicle with no way of getting in, ( I would need outside assistance for its repair and I'm not a body repair man )

The price I paid for the vehicle was what I thought was fair for a shell, so everything that still worked was just icing on the cake, heck I thought that the ENTIRE car was submerged judging by the photos, but the more I dig into the vehicle, things just look better and better believe it or not.

My time is very limited and I would rather not spend it trying to save electronics when a donor car is coming eventually anyway. Plus repairing non conformal coated elecronics that bathed in saltwater for hours/days sounds like a waste of time when they can easily be replaced. It would be one thing if a body controller was 1800$ then I may have taken my time, but they are 250$ a pop on ebay or "free" with any donor vehicle purchase. Im not sure how you want to spend your time but scrubbing a salt embedded 200$ electronic board for an hour only to have it fail 2 months later doesnt sound fun to me.

In terms of 12v power, I also knew that 12v was applied multiple times to the car before I even had it in my possession so the damage was already done (hence the nosecone missing with fresh starting cable marks on them) I called the insurance company that the car belonged to and with Teslas that have been in a flood they are an "obvious total loss" they plug in a battery to see if the car has any life and then call it a day. The second time it was applied was by the tow truck driver that wanted to "take the car out of park"

I will post a few more pics of corroded controllers that were fried during the flood and not when I decided to be a cowboy and apply 12v power to the vehicle.

Yes, I am using 1000v gloves that I posted a few pages back, Ill upload another pic of them in the next batch of photos.

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Should also be in the ends of the dash.

Hmmmm. So far I only see antennas for WiFi and or 3G at the sides of the dash

 

[markwj]

Before I continue, can I get a show of hands of people who do not think I can finish this project successfully? Curious to see whats going through everyone's mind.

I reckon you'll end up merging two dead cars, and finish with one working plus a bunch of parts to eBay.

As for your approach - it's your car, in your garage (when your wife lets you). You're the one on the ground, with the most information, best placed to make those decisions. Best of luck.

 

[BoldSharpe]

satoshi is Quantum. Quantum is satoshi! :smile:

 

[satoshi]

Just remember that most folks who say it can't be done, really mean that they couldn't do it.

To be clear, I did not say it couldn't be done, I said that the way he is currently going about it is making it more difficult for himself to remain more cost efficient than a CPO.

satoshi is Quantum. Quantum is satoshi!

Key difference between me and him is that I only stated my brutally honest opinion when explicitly asked to.

The price I paid for the vehicle was what I thought was fair for a shell, so everything that still worked was just icing on the cake, heck I thought that the ENTIRE car was submerged judging by the photos, but the more I dig into the vehicle, things just look better and better believe it or not.

I think you over-estimate the value of the shell, but I digress.

My time is very limited and I would rather not spend it trying to save electronics when a donor car is coming eventually anyway. Plus repairing non conformal coated elecronics that bathed in saltwater for hours/days sounds like a waste of time when they can easily be replaced. It would be one thing if a body controller was 1800$ then I may have taken my time, but they are 250$ a pop on ebay or "free" with any donor vehicle purchase. Im not sure how you want to spend your time but scrubbing a salt embedded 200$ electronic board for an hour only to have it fail 2 months later doesnt sound fun to me.

This increases the total cost of the project though. Yeah there is some threshold of effort/cost savings that varies from person to person... Then also I did not know they are that cheap on ebay as I had not looked yet. That said you will probably need to reprogram some, maybe all, if they require some kind of VIN validation.

In terms of 12v power, I also knew that 12v was applied multiple times to the car before I even had it in my possession so the damage was already done (hence the nosecone missing with fresh starting cable marks on them) I called the insurance company that the car belonged to and with Teslas that have been in a flood they are an "obvious total loss" they plug in a battery to see if the car has any life and then call it a day. The second time it was applied was by the tow truck driver that wanted to "take the car out of park"

1. Insurance company is in a situation where if they didn't test it, they put themselves in a position prone to insurance fraud.

2. If I had the opportunity to, I would have told the tow truck guy that the car is stuck in park and not to power on the car. If extra costs come of that, then weigh the risk... if not, sure it's a pain, but it increases chance of recovering boards.

3. The above two people do not work in IT, which takes away the "should know better" context.

I will post a few more pics of corroded controllers that were fried during the flood and not when I decided to be a cowboy and apply 12v power to the vehicle.

Please do, but this does not change the fact that you have an established technical background with electronics, and then still decided to do it anyway. It's poor decisions like this where, for a moment, I feel Tesla's decision not to sell parts is justified.

Yes, I am using 1000v gloves that I posted a few pages back, Ill upload another pic of them in the next batch of photos.

This provides a huge sigh of relief.

 

[CzTom]

I enjoy this thread enough to come out of lurker status. I'm 2 weeks into owning a CPO 2014 P85+, so you're helping me find out more than I thought possible about my car - thanks!
Regarding the center console, two comments: (1) the steel frame and thick plastic structure are probably to meet side impact standards since there's no center tunnel reinforcement to keep one front seat from driving into the other in a door intrusion scenario. (2) the reason the key fob antennae are circular is that they are also induction coils to power the fobs when they're dead. This makes me wonder about the one you found in the back...

 

[brkaus]

At least none of the posts have included a video with several people working on the car where one says to another - "hold my beer and watch this".

Anyway, enjoying the thread.

 

[Btr_ftw]

At least none of the posts have included a video with several people working on the car where one says to another - "hold my beer and watch this".

Anyway, enjoying the thread.

those are coming

 

[satoshi]

I have to admit though I do like your self-deprecating humor!

 

[ArtInCT]

en loco parentis .... did not like it in college... really do not appreciate it here on TMC.

Let the guy play please.
This is a lot like Gold Rush... we want the crew to make some miss steps... Btr-ftw knows his way around wrenches and autos...
Can we PULLL EAASE get back to having fun and learning....

as Stan Lee would say in Marvel Comics.... "Nuff Said"...

he dismounts the soapbox....

 

[TMobe]

Amen ArtInCT! Carry on...

 

[scaesare]

we want the crew to make some miss steps... Btr-ftw knows his way around wrenches and autos...
Can we PULLL EAASE get back to having fun and learning....

Your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

 

[Btr_ftw]

UPDATE

I'll be posting a series of underhood shots of a P85D and my S85 so you all can see some of the key differences. I will leave some parts blank as I may not be able to identify them and may need your help, this will be posted for fun and learning purposes....

 

[Btr_ftw]

UPDATE

A buddy of mine came over to help get some stuff done to his Tesla and I decided it would be a good time to show you guys what it looks like under the hood with no frunk attached (I'm sure most of you already know, but who cares)

Yes, that is red text with no background on top of random objects, nobody said life would be easy.

 

[green1]

Well, they've certainly moved the battery somewhere less awkward...

I'd say your "another keyfob sensor?" is likely correct, that would sense you when you're standing in front of the frunk and press the button, whereas the ones in the cabin may not.

BTW: Love that you labelled the snow, and the label of "adorable" for the front motor is rather funny too.

 

[Btr_ftw]

I have to admit though I do like your self-deprecating humor!

- - - Updated - - -

Well, they've certainly moved the battery somewhere less awkward...

I'd say your "another keyfob sensor?" is likely correct, that would sense you when you're standing in front of the frunk and press the button, whereas the ones in the cabin may not.

BTW: Love that you labelled the snow, and the label of "adorable" for the front motor is rather funny too.

They only moved it to make it easier for the monthly replacement.

 

[llavalle]

They only moved it to make it easier for the monthly replacement.

Lol.. It's not that bad. I'm still on my original battery and I've had the car for 11months...

 

[green1]

Just FYI: those gloves are supposed to be tested annually, 5 years old isn't a good sign, They're also supposed to be used in leather protectors (which I hope you're doing) It only takes a pin-hole to defeat the gloves. I recommend that if you aren't going to get them properly tested that you at least blow some air in to them, and roll them over at the cuff and squeeze to see if they hold air, if not, they're not doing you much good.

I apologize for all my safety rants, but as someone who shows up to deal with the aftermath when someone doesn't pay enough attention to it, it's the one part of all of this that I don't find to be a joke when not handled properly.

They only moved it to make it easier for the monthly replacement.

Hey! some of us can get 3-4 months out of one of those batteries!

 

[Btr_ftw]

Just FYI: those gloves are supposed to be tested annually, 5 years old isn't a good sign, They're also supposed to be used in leather protectors (which I hope you're doing) It only takes a pin-hole to defeat the gloves. I recommend that if you aren't going to get them properly tested that you at least blow some air in to them, and roll them over at the cuff and squeeze to see if they hold air, if not, they're not doing you much good.

I apologize for all my safety rants, but as someone who shows up to deal with the aftermath when someone doesn't pay enough attention to it, it's the one part of all of this that I don't find to be a joke when not handled properly.


Hey! some of us can get 3-4 months out of one of those batteries!

I purchased those gloves a while ago and I always test them before I use them..The gloves are as tight as a drum.