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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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Says the electrical engineer with extensive experience fixing Teslas and an IQ of 170

When I was a kid, I tested at 145, but I don't think the tests really show too much.

Seriously though, I'll help you with the sticky bits (such as making a key). The rest is essentially LEGOs. The most tedious part is all the little interior parts, but if you park the cars right next to each other and have a full day, you can have all the interior done in one day. It's not rocket science. They build the cars to be assembled extremely quickly on a moving assembly line. If you've had the factory tour, you know this.

Here's how I'd do it:
Day 1:
Pull the MCU back-half, Airbag ECU (RCM) and Body ECU and send them to me so I can hack them. (No key, remember?)
Pull the DU from the P85.
Pull the Pack from the P85.

Day 2:
Pull the interior, charger, HVJB, Charge port and all the wiring harnesses from the P85. You can skip the harnesses in the hatch unless they got wet. (unlikely)
Install all the above into the flood car except the MCU/RCM/BECU. (Do same-day if you can so you don't forget stuff)

Day 3:
Install the pack in the flood car.
Install the DU in the flood car.

By now you should have time left over from the pack and DU because you're a pro. If not, consult the book of armaments another day, then:
Replace all the latch motors (2), glycol pumps, valve motors (3) and vacuum pump under the frunk. (Also the air suspension block if both cars have air)
I've found the pumps survive fresh water floods, but I'd replace yours just to be sure.
You might want to replace the Power steering rack too, but this survived on all 3 flood cars I've repaired.

Day 4:
Cleaning and miscellaneous, such as headliner, door panels, etc.

Day 5:
Reinstall the now unlocked MCU, Reset RCM and Body ECU with Key.
Step on brake.
Drive car.

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Simplify, like Phil says. Any big project, take it a small piece/ section at a time and don't worry about the rest. Don't look at it all, it's like looking down on a high wire. Just keep doing -units- of work, and sooner or later you'll run out of units to do!

Added benefit in the end: you will have far more self-confidence and mental horsepower than you had, and that's really what it's all about.

One question I have is is there frame damage on the P85? If not, maybe stay with that. Otherwise it can get pretty technical depending on the nature and extent of frame damage.
 
Nice Work! I just started following the thread and this is an Amazing Job!

I am trying to track down the connectors for the parking break controller and parking brakes themselves. I was wondering if you would be willing to send me the salt soaked parts, and the mating connectors from the harness for all three of those components as well, as you will be replacing them with components from the Donor Car. I would be willing to pay shipping and a small amount for the parts. Knowing well and good that they will never be functional again. (perhaps you can recoup some of the cost of donors)
 
Nice Work! I just started following the thread and this is an Amazing Job!

I am trying to track down the connectors for the parking break controller and parking brakes themselves. I was wondering if you would be willing to send me the salt soaked parts, and the mating connectors from the harness for all three of those components as well, as you will be replacing them with components from the Donor Car. I would be willing to pay shipping and a small amount for the parts. Knowing well and good that they will never be functional again. (perhaps you can recoup some of the cost of donors)

Actually those connectors survived the flood. No water or corrosion, the flood line was below the parking brake controllers.

The parking brakes are also ok.

HOWEVER, golden rule states I can't sell any parts just yet till I know everything is going to be ok from the donor vehicle
 
I know squat about wiring harnesses, but that looks like some kid with a roll of black tape went nuts. Is that what a normal car's "wiring harness" looks like?
Yes, that is what a standard automotive wire harness looks like. Vinyl tape is super cheap and I believe they have a machine to install it. Many times there will be a loom under that to bundle wires and sometimes there will not be a loom. It all depends on manufacturer.
 
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