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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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It's impossible to predict where a car will be hit from, so the best we can do is reset the car to where it was designed. The aluminum used in the Tesla is a very hard alloy; it's hard to believe the fenders and other skins are aluminum they are so stiff, but they are. I have a fairly good idea how thick aluminum behaves, and as long as it wasn't kinked in the accident it will be fine.

I'm by no means an expert and don't know how zhur0002 will repair it, but I know that his work is top rate.
 
@ Btr_ftw: Wow ! I follow this thread and it seems to become day-by-day a bigger jig-saw puzzle. :eek:
Respect for the work you've done already.
Knowing I'm an electronic engineer this would be to big for me, seeing the cable harnesses scares me to death.
Corroding connectors or bad contacts can give difficult faults.

I wish you a lot of success with repairing the car, we will follow it up here in Belgium.

Go for it !!!!

( Sorry for my bad english language, I live in the flemish part of Belgium at 100 kilometers from Brussels where we speak dutch, so english is not my proper language )

Xavier

Your English is better than most of the people that have posted here so far (including myself)
 
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This thread really makes me concerned about purchasing a used car. Any used car.

That's why it's always a good idea to inspect the car carefully. At least Teslas are easy because there is a lot less complexity and they are pretty easy to check for damage.

This, always this. Inspection, inspection, inspection! Doing your homework on the car you're looking to purchase is always good idea.

When i was first looking to get a used Prius about a year ago, I basically had a choice between two vehicles one with lower mileage, but a minor rear-end collision history and about 3-4 previous owners and a car with only one previous owner but 40-50k extra miles and no collison history.

One thing to note is the drive batteries are located in the rear on a prius, and seeing the location of dents it was hard to believe the batteries came out of that unaffected.

So I opted for the higher mileage vehicle, and haven't had any issues with the car whatsoever... sure its got 200k+ miles on it, but it runs perfectly fine and it was only $6k.

Used cars can lead to excellent cost efficiency when you take the time and effort to do a little research before you buy the car.

Salvage vehicles are another level of complexity in that matter though often requiring far greater technical background in order to find a car that you can reasonably expect to resurrect.

New/CPO is great for the person looking to offload the inspection process to the manufacturer. Used is great for those willing to do their homework in search of a great deal and/or those willing to perform minor repairs to get at a great deal and still feasible for the general population.

Salvage vehicles take the used concept to a new level of extreme, and are beyond the reach of the general population without significant car experience or a relevant engineering background.
 
The gentleman at the second shop I dealt with explained that semi-often the bent frame rail will also damage the tower which requires replacement of the that as well. I didn't ask if that generally totals out the car but we can probably assume yes.
Suspension tower? Did someone say something about the tower?

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Mine is pretty much shredded. That's what makes this a fun project! :[~
 
I hate to drag on OT discussions, but man! What in the name of all that is holly happened there?
Well holly is a nice yuletime evergreen. As to the car, it seemed to have received a point-impact somehow, which folded the rear bumper at that point and spread the energy to press the whole backend against the motor. I've removed that portion now, and find the rear motor mount is broken, but it can be welded back together. No airbags went off, and the rest of the car is just fine. I bought it because I need the front end to fix my P85D.

Usually these severe rear-enders happen at a freeway on-ramp where somebody's trying to merge and is not looking ahead. But why it's a point-impact, I don't know. It wasn't a pole that hit them because the fold is tight.
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I considered this car lost, but I now have a friend (on this forum) who actually had one of these rear-enders repaired with a complete butt transplant! The work was very well done and the car is running great now!
 
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UPDATE


I've been super busy packaging and shipping out parts on the car, Since I have a little downtime from working on the car (its mostly disassembled) I believe its time to start recouping costs on this investment.

I'm shipping out all of my good battery modules to 3 different locations (packing, shipping, pallet loading etc)
Many people have been asking about my interior pieces for sale and I've been selling things here and there
The Drive Unit will be removed shortly and will be hopefully sold soon as well

Haven't really had the time to work on the new car, its an hour away and I would need to pack up tools to start the disassembly, not only that but my friend's truck will not be able to tow the model S from where it is to my home unless it is lightened (aka remove the battery pack) so that will have to be done before the car itself is close to me.

Here is were the vehicle parts stand right now

Drive unit - Pending sale
6 Good battery modules - SOLD
6 Good battery modules - SOLD
Driver front seat - SOLD
Misc interior trim panels - SOLD



 
You haven't yet opened up the drive unit to see if it took water in, right? Curious how that turns out.
Also, if you're willing, it would be interesting to see what you're getting for various parts, just to get an idea of the market. Especially battery modules.


Lol I wish.... I had wayyyyyyyyy too many other things to focus on then satisfying my curiosity for the drive unit (especially now that I have a donor car) It was going to be the last thing I was going to do after getting the car running, someone just came in and shot me an offer for it and that was that.

Modules trend for 1k. But they sell in the 8 to 900s or so. Every 2 months they drop by about 30$ as the tech advances. People arent getting 20k for battery packs like they were last year.
 
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