Nice! After market, as in non-tesla branded? Or just used?I have an aftermarket charger I took out of my car to switch it to EU carand I've seen quite a few on ebay.
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Replacing Onboard Charger Gen3 2017 MS75D...My Experience (With Photos)
- Thread starter dbldwn02
- Start date
400v/3phase? I install electrical all over the world with the military and I much prefer the higher voltage systems. Mostly because they use half the amount of copper which means half the amount of weight for me to lug around.
I wonder why the US charger couldn't accept one leg of EU power and a neutral to make 230v. In the US I can charge on a 3 phase 208 grid (using two hots) or at home at 240 (using two hots) or at home using 120 (using one hot and a neutral). Other than the 50/60Hz frequency, what's the difference of using 2 hots of 230/50hz power?
yes 400/3p - do you use an adapter for 3 (two hots) charging in US???
From what I understood USA chargers are single phase with higher input amperage like 48 or 72. EU OCB is 3P but max amperage per phase is 16A. The EU OCB has 3 modules inside.
I might be missing some info on how the car charges in US.
From what I understood USA chargers are single phase with higher input amperage like 48 or 72. EU OCB is 3P but max amperage per phase is 16A. The EU OCB has 3 modules inside.
I might be missing some info on how the car charges in US.
Most US Teslas have 2 modules inside. 24amps each to make 48amps. It can send up to 240V/24amps down each board.
Here are combos I've charged on:
120/15A (1 hot)
240/24A (2 hots, with neutral)...this is my daily charging
240/48A (2 hots, no neutral)
240/48A (2 hots, with neutral)
208/48A (1 hot of a 3-phase system)
Other than the 50/60Hz difference, I don't see why a US car couldn't charge on 230 EU. (1 hot, 1 neutral)
Here are combos I've charged on:
120/15A (1 hot)
240/24A (2 hots, with neutral)...this is my daily charging
240/48A (2 hots, no neutral)
240/48A (2 hots, with neutral)
208/48A (1 hot of a 3-phase system)
Other than the 50/60Hz difference, I don't see why a US car couldn't charge on 230 EU. (1 hot, 1 neutral)
Yup. Makes sense. Those came in the 90s and 100s battery sizes.
What doesn't make sense is why Tesla won't put a 72amp charger in my car. At least when one of the banks craps out, I can still charge at 40-48amps in my garage.
They will. For $2000 USD.
I'm in Colorado and my very late '17 (built July 2018) MX 100D just had the 48A onboard charger lose a board. Typical story - woke up with car not fully charged and 50A breaker tripped. Unplugged car, reset breaker, and car starts at 40A then quickly drops to 24A. Essentially lost a board in the charger and set up service.
Quote for straight replacement of the onboard 48A charger was around $3000. But they also quoted "upgrading" to the 72A charger for $2000 flat fee. I took the upgrade and have it scheduled for July 9th.
Shortly after this I will buy one of the 80A HPWC on ebay and install it as my 14-50 NEMA outlet was run with 4-gauge wire from the main box. Just need to swap the Siemens 50A dual pole breaker with an 80A and install the HPWC, and I'll be cranking 72A on the MX. This helps because my wife has a '21 MY and my son got our old '15 MS 70D, so we sometimes overlap in charging. Son won't ever get more than 40A at home, but he's grandfathered in on unlimited SC. Wife will be able to bump to 48A, and my MX will pull 72A, so the bottleneck won't be bad at all.
This all assumes that 80A HPWC won't catch fire, which is why Tesla did away with it and the 72A option to begin with.
Very nice! They wouldn't let me upgrade when mine failed 3 years ago. Just quoted $3k for a new 48amp one. I was just out of warranty.
Man, having one charger for 3 cars seems rough. Have you looked at load sharing across 2 or 3 chargers?
It's not too bad. The older MS we gave to our teenage son and he drives mostly back and forth to school, which is about 3-4 miles each way. My wife's MY only logs maybe 10 miles per day, sometimes 20 if she has work errands. My MX is the hog as I regularly go to the airport for work travel.
Just those occasions when we all seem to need to charge - typically a Tuesday - is when it bottlenecks. And the older MS has free SC so sometimes the kid just goes over there to juice up.
brainhouston
Active Member
ehh, u have some reading to do...
u need 3-gauge wire n 100A breaker or u might be catching fire lol
where do u get this info?..
plenty of ppl using gen2 without any issues, me included.
Electrician said the 4-gauge is more than sufficient for 80A. And he said I would simply need an 80A Siemens dual-pole breaker in place of my current 50A breaker as the car will never pull more than 72A. He did say that he would recommend I go #2 gauge just to be safer (for a $675 fee).
Tesla service guys told me that there was a rash of 80A HPWC catching fire, so they discontinued selling it. This is the reason they rarely do 72A upgrades because they don't even sell the 80A HPWC any longer.
As a side note, it's challenging to take your response seriously when you can't type out the full words and use text style communication in a forum.
brainhouston
Active Member
if ur electrician suggests 80a breaker for continuous 72a load then u need a better electrician ...
i've never heard of that
most likely ppl do improper installs, more current more chances for things to go wrong...
don't lol
u can read the gen 2 installation manual or the big long thread on here for proper install
welcome to modern age, we all use texting style, i like to save time even if its few keystrokes
A 72amp constant load technically requires a 90amp breaker and 2 or 3 gauge wire. I think your electrician forgot or doesn't care about the 80% rule.
Will an 80amp breaker work? Yup. Will it last? Maybe. If I was you I would save the $675 and drop the HPWC speed down to 64amps on the 80amp circuit.
I replaced my onboard charger last year, and was looking at the one I took off my car. I opened the charger, looked at the fuse, and realized all 4 fuses are blown. These are HEV 40A 400VDC Max fuse made by Littlefuse. So I just went on ebay and bought the same 4 fuses for about $70, and replaced them myself. (They are under those pads I assumed are some heatshield) Now I have a working spare onboard charger I'm unsure what to do. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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brainhouston
Active Member
Well not so fast...
Unless u install it n try using it there's no guarantee it won't burn fuses again
They popped for a reason...
Save it as a spare. Or you could sell it as scrap. Please don't be the person that sells it on eBay, as working, since you don't know if the fuses fixed the root problem. Blowing all four fuses is worrisome. And if you didn't blow anything with the new charger, it's likely something inside the old charger is actually shorted. Good chance you'll blow all 4 fuses again.
When I first made this wiki there were no good teardown videos of the charger but here is a video for people are interested in tearing down the gen 3 charger.
well, mine popped cuz I used a faulty UMC to charge my car.
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