as MLAUTO wrote before: yes, it's the switchpack underneath the dash-panel, charging the 12V aux-batt.
i can highly recommend you NOT to put just a bigger/stronger battery in your car wich maybe pulls eventually more current while charging, because those switchpacks are quite vulnerable and - besides expensive - a pain in the butt to change (you have to undo half of the dashboard).
when you buy a new 12V battery please contact Gruberpower, they have sufficient alternatives !
i had twice before a 12V failure on a roadster. one was similar symptoms as yours but easy to fix:
when i opened the pem, the red positive cable coming from APS-connector to the board (see pic) had dry solder and lost contact.
View attachment 423439
the other one there was a burned cap on the same board but in the powerline of the PEM-fan. that car didn't loose 12V but complete comms to the CAN-bus.
well, in my eyes that bloody Molex-12V-plug is a highly suspected candidate as well...
anyway, good luck !
Thanks for the info and pics. It is always good to see and understand issues that have happened in the past with the Roadster.
I have completed the repair of the Molex PEM connector. Fortunately, mine was just mechanical damage to the external portion, and the pin condidtion looks fine. I damaged the latch feature because the rubber seal was in poor condition expanded preventing normal operation, causing me to fight with it.
The parts were an exact match, thanks to PV-EV for that ordering information.
Not having experience with this connector, I spent a little time discovering the method of disassembling it.
Photos show the spot to pry on to pop the white part free. That is the gateway to freeing the pins as well.
You need to pop a small tab up and slide the white part out with a small flat screwdriver.
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