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Running Down to Zero (and Beyond!) (Warning: Vampire, Monster, and Necromancy Content!)

Hi Folks!

My 2014 S85 has finally hit a few snags requiring minor service. As mentioned in a another post, an electrical issue has taken out the following on both doors of the driver's side:

1) Windows are inoperable. They do nudge down when you open the doors (as expected). It is December in the Northeast soo not that big of a deal -- as long as they are stuck in the closed position (which they are).
2) Door handles do not retract. The little embedded handle lights stay on, even when locked by key. This means that even though the car is "locked," anyone can enter the car through the doors on the driver side. Great for parking in dicey neighborhoods.
3) Rear mirror control on the driver's door is dead.

TeslaTap has diagnosed this as a broken wire running along the driver's side of the car that powers these modules. Either that or it's a fuse. I have an appointment at the Paramus SC this coming Wednesday, January 2, 2019 to make what is probably not a complicated repair. I had a ranger appointment for them to come to me to fix this but I had to cancel when I hit a pothole on I-91 north of Brattleboro VT this past Friday. So now I need a new rim. I have decided to bring my Scarlett in to handle both repairs.

Needless to say, the vampire drain is noticeably worse with the door handles protruded and lighting the ground below needlessly 24/7. It can be as high as 10 miles a day!

As Scarlett parks in a Manhattan parking garage serviced by the world's most expensive Blink EV charging station (49¢/kw!), I have decided to let the battery drain out and revive the car the day before instead of loading up on expensive electric uselessly. Also, the mad scientist in me is intrigued at reanimating a dead car.

As of this afternoon, Scarlett is at 0 miles of range is no longer online or visible on my app.

Tesla cognoscenti, what can I expect when I try to revive a bricked car this coming Tuesday? I see this as a stress free chance to engage in evil experiments contrary to nature.

Specifically, when the car bricks itself, will I be able to open the trunk? I expect so since the latch is mechanical.

When I plug in my charging cable to a 110v outlet and press the release button (on the cable), will the charge port pop open as always? This, I have my doubts about. I would expect that I could probably persuade the port open with my thumb on the right side (taking care not to pinch myself when it opens).

Will the charge port be blocked by the locking pin? That really can't be possible, right?

Will I need extra time before the car "comes back to life?" Will Scarlett call me "Master" and then do my bidding mindlessly, no matter what I ask?

I will check back in and provide updates for those who find the morbidity here interesting. :)
 

MP3Mike

Well-Known Member
Feb 1, 2016
18,055
44,485
Oregon
Specifically, when the car bricks itself, will I be able to open the trunk? I expect so since the latch is mechanical.

Nope, the latch is electronic, so no access to the trunk.

When I plug in my charging cable to a 110v outlet and press the release button (on the cable), will the charge port pop open as always? This, I have my doubts about. I would expect that I could probably persuade the port open with my thumb on the right side (taking care not to pinch myself when it opens).

Nope. It is likely that the 12v battery will be completely dead so nothing will work.

Will the charge port be blocked by the locking pin? That really can't be possible, right?

Yes. The car has to retract the locking pin. No power, no retracting.

Will I need extra time before the car "comes back to life?" Will Scarlett call me "Master" and then do my bidding mindlessly, no matter what I ask?

You will need lots of time and likely a new 12v battery. You will need to "break in" to the frunk and jump start the 12v system to recharge the 12v battery. (A little jumper pack won't be enough.) And then eventually you might get the 12v systems back up and running, but it may still not charge for a while.

It would likely be easier to just call a tow truck and then let Tesla deal with reviving the car. (Of course even that could be a hassle since you won't be able to put it in tow mode.)

Note: Tesla will often refuse to replace the 12v battery under warranty when you let the battery run dead.
 
I've decided that due to the expected damage to the internal organs like the sex parts, er, I mean the 12V battery, that my plan was ill considered. I needed to save Scarlett!!!

I ran across East 79th Street, dodging the crosstown bus, to the garage. The car was still at zero SOC, with the warning message "Battery power very low Cabin Overheat protection disabled" displayed on the instrument cluster.

The trunk opened as normal. I pulled out the charging cable and slipped on the 110v adapter for the nearby wall outlet. We're not supposed to charge on those in the garage, but seeing as this was an emergency, I ignored the prohibition this time.

I plugged in the cable to the electrical outlet and pressed the release button. The charge port opened as expected. BUT! The charge port light stayed dark! I attempted to plug the nozzle in and found it locked by the pin!

Desperate to revive my baby and prevent the 12V nightmare, I reached inside and booted up the main touchscreen display. 0 miles. I pressed the UNLOCK CHARGE PORT button and was concerned when I failed to hear a click.

Suddenly concerned that I had been too late, I went back to the rear of the car, wondering what I was going to do if I couldn't plug in the cable.

The charge port light was lit up white! I plugged in and she is now charging at 3 miles of range an hour.

I will have to find another evil plan to entertain myself with... >:)
 
It didn't come up on the app because the MCU goes to sleep when power is very low. The 12v still had some charge so you were able to revive it.

But folks, 0% is different than 0 miles. 0 miles with LiIon batteries is something like 85% charge. Much lower than that and LiIon batteries are damaged.

Running it to 0 miles and beyond to power-down (or even +10 miles and it quits) teaches the system where the bottom is in the pack, but there's no need to do this more than once, and even so you can't depend on this due to topography and temperature. Happens to me sometimes on trips at 22:30 at night.

Manual says 'a plugged in Tesla is a happy Tesla'.
 
Sorry to disturb whatever evil plans you currently have for Scarlett, but what was diagnosis? I have same issue happening with my Candy ('13 P85) - windows not responsive (but will nudge down/up when open/close doors), and just both driver side door handles permanently in the "happy" (extended) position with 24/7 puddle lights draining EV life-force (have not tried to adjust mirror, likely also failed). Is it as simple as fuse(s) that I can DIY, or some dreaded internal artery that needs more serious troubleshooting... I'm out of warranty, and hence out of pocket, so any support is appreciated to know what I'm getting into when likely take her in to SC.

I should also note, in the app, I get error constantly "The front driver side window is not fully closed.". Appears to be fully closed to me...
 
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Sorry to disturb whatever evil plans you currently have for Scarlett, but what was diagnosis? I have same issue happening with my Candy ('13 P85) - windows not responsive (but will nudge down/up when open/close doors), and just both driver side door handles permanently in the "happy" (extended) position with 24/7 puddle lights draining EV life-force (have not tried to adjust mirror, likely also failed). Is it as simple as fuse(s) that I can DIY, or some dreaded internal artery that needs more serious troubleshooting... I'm out of warranty, and hence out of pocket, so any support is appreciated to know what I'm getting into when likely take her in to SC.

I should also note, in the app, I get error constantly "The front driver side window is not fully closed.". Appears to be fully closed to me...
It was the cable, like TeslaTap said. This was repaired under warranty so I can't give you a cost estimate.

Since that time, Scarlett has been clear sailing, except for last summer when she woke up dead 3 times, with 5 errors cycling through the instrument cluster. Car would not go into D, so no driving, just towing. 3 times. Turns out it was a short circuit in one the relays (they look like HP printer cartridges). Tesla even wrote a service bulletin based on their repair experience which took 3 service visits to figure out. Good luck Ataway!
 
It was the cable, like TeslaTap said. This was repaired under warranty so I can't give you a cost estimate.

Since that time, Scarlett has been clear sailing, except for last summer when she woke up dead 3 times, with 5 errors cycling through the instrument cluster. Car would not go into D, so no driving, just towing. 3 times. Turns out it was a short circuit in one the relays (they look like HP printer cartridges). Tesla even wrote a service bulletin based on their repair experience which took 3 service visits to figure out. Good luck Ataway!
Great feedback, thank you. I'll try checking the door handle fuses first, then take it into SC if that does not miraculously fix my issue. Now I just need to find a budget way to fix the TPMS fault without shelling out $1200 to SC and all will be right with my girl, Candy...
 

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