Tesla 2023 Model Y bricked

[KaBerg]

Yesterday my car bricked in a parking lot when dropping off my son at work. My son put the car in park and placed the hazard lights on. I got in the driver side, and tried to change the seat position. It did not work. I noticed a new message on the screen “car unable to charge”. I had 208 miles of charge on the car. I tried to change from park to drive. It didn’t work either. I couldn’t turn off the hazard lights. When I tried to leave the car, the powered open door function would not work. I had to use the emergency override and the door would not close / latch properly afterwards. Upon inspection, the left side of the car power functions would not work. This includes the driver side doors, the driver side tail light and trunk. The other passenger side doors worked and the hood and the other lights. The tow mode function did not work either.

The tow truck company had to bungie cord the doors / strap the exterior to prevent the driver side door from flinging open. Unfortunately, the window blew out on the drive to the Tesla repair shop. I’m not going to get a diagnostic on the car until Monday. Has anyone seen this electronic failure before where the car suddenly stops working and half the car “strokes out”?

 

[father_of_6]

That's too bad. Sorry you had to go through this. Curious what caused the window to break, perhaps that's on the tow company.

On the bright side, you're still under warranty. Please let us know how this goes.

 

[fholbert]

Can‘t answer any questions for you. Sorry it happened.

• The door wouldn’t latch? I would think the latch would be mechanical. Was the window preventing in from closing or was it a latch issue?
• When the car was loaded on the flatbed, did the rear wheels turn or were they locked (Hold)?
• Did you get any warnings about the LV battery before it bricked.
• Let us know if Tesla fixes the window under warranty.

 

[ATPMSD]

Most likely cause is a dead low-volage battery

 

[Zythryn]

Mostly like cause is a dead low-volage battery

I am skeptical of that as half the car still has electronic functions.
I’m wondering if it a bad wiring harness connection?

 

[Tam]

Can‘t answer any questions for you. Sorry it happened.

• The door wouldn’t latch? I would think the latch would be mechanical. Was the window preventing in from closing or was it a latch issue?
• When the car was loaded on the flatbed, did the rear wheels turn or were they locked (Hold)?
• Did you get any warnings about the LV battery before it bricked.
• Let us know if Tesla fixes the window for free.

With electricity, the glass is automatically lowered in open position. Once you close, it pushes up tightly. When you open the door with power, that glass will continue to push up higher risking breaking up the glass against the metal frame.

 

[father_of_6]

Ah, that makes sense. The manual door release was used, so the window never dropped to clear the door seal. Getting the window back into the seal to close the door would be tricky or even not possible, preventing the door from even closing.

Putting a pool noodle or something in the door would have prevented the window from pressing against the seal hard enough to break it.

 

[KaBerg]

That's too bad. Sorry you had to go through this. Curious what caused the window to break, perhaps that's on the tow company.

On the bright side, you're still under warranty. Please let us know how this goes.

I’m assuming the wind pressure cause the window to blow outwards. The door could not electronically latch so it was ajar by several inches. There was a towel in the door jamb which prevented the glass from slamming into the door frame during transport.

 

[KaBerg]

Can‘t answer any questions for you. Sorry it happened.

• The door wouldn’t latch? I would think the latch would be mechanical. Was the window preventing in from closing or was it a latch issue?
• When the car was loaded on the flatbed, did the rear wheels turn or were they locked (Hold)?
• Did you get any warnings about the LV battery before it bricked.
• Let us know if Tesla fixes the window under warranty.

Yes, the latch prevented it from closing. The tow mode wouldn’t work so the car was dragged onto the flat bed with wheels locked. NO warnings about the LV batter. Tesla will fix the window and the damaged door panels (damaged by the bungee cord wrapped around the handles. It ripped the vinyl. Tesla is contesting any damage to the paint - stating it is the fault of the tow company. I feel there should have been an over ride to allow the manually retract the door latch and close it. When the glass flopped over, it scratched the paint during the transport.

 

[KaBerg]

I am skeptical of that as half the car still has electronic functions.
I’m wondering if it a bad wiring harness connection?

The passenger side doors were able to open and close properly. I could also lower and raise the windows. There were no functions on the driver side doors.

 

[father_of_6]

Yeah, the low voltage battery being dead would have actually bricked the car. Since you were able to still use some of the electronics, this definitely points to a different problem. Wiring harness seems like a good guess to me.

I feel like it's actually generous of Tesla to repair the window and damaged door vinyl, since that was clearly not their fault.

The door latch is mechanical. I'm 99% confident that the door latch isn't what stopped the door from closing, but the door seal and window did. This is why the window broke... from pressing too hard against the seam. A towel is unlikely to provide enough cushion.

When you slam your door closed, there isn't an electrical component that quickly opens the mechanical latch, it's entirely mechanical. Had the window been entirely rolled down, the driver's door would have closed with ease. I wouldn't have done this, but in your case it would've been better to intentionally break the window in order to close it - that would've prevented the damage to the vinyl and exterior paint.

 

[Tam]

Ah, that makes sense. The manual door release was used, so the window never dropped to clear the door seal. Getting the window back into the seal to close the door would be tricky or even not possible, preventing the door from even closing.

Putting a pool noodle or something in the door would have prevented the window from pressing against the seal hard enough to break it.

This is the case against the frameless windows when the power is out. I now prefer a window with the glass tucked in the real frame so there's no chance of breaking the glass against the bare metal of the chassis.

 

[KaBerg]

Update - see attached diagnostic from the service center. I have no idea what this means. Anyone can help explain…

 

[rstx]

Update - see attached diagnostic from the service center. I have no idea what this means. Anyone can help explain…

They actually sent that to the customer?

 

[E90alex]

A bad ground connection fried the left side body controller module.

 

[Vinnigan]

Sounds to me like “checked a bunch of wires and connections, found one with an issue. No idea why. Unplugged and plugged back in and now it’s all working properly again.”

 

[KaBerg]

To make matters worse, Tesla is demanding that I negotiate with their towing vendor to fix the damaged paint from the glass blowing out and have the drivers side door adjusted by a body shop (this is the door that the window blew out since it was ajar during the drive and the wind pressure blew it out. This side had no power). I should not be negotiating with their vendor. This is absurd.

 

[KaBerg]

A bad ground connection fried the left side body controller module.

Would you know what would cause a bad ground connection? Thank you for your help.

 

[dbeiler]

The technician determined the left body control module had been attempting to operate with an insufficient ground path. I'm guessing the operating current in the body control module eventually found its own path to ground, frying the module in the process. The technician replaced 'VCleft' which is the left side vehicle controller.

Tesla 3/Y electrical architecture is a very low module count, high/lengthy wire count design; unlike the more traditional high module count, low/short wire designs. The problem with Tesla's design, as you have unfortunately discovered, is that when a module dies, it kills an entire side of the vehicle.

 

[KaBerg]

The technician determined the left body control module had been attempting to operate with an insufficient ground path. I'm guessing the operating current in the body control module eventually found its own path to ground, frying the module in the process. The technician replaced 'VCleft' which is the left side vehicle controller.

Tesla 3/Y electrical architecture is a very low module count, high/lengthy wire count design; unlike the more traditional high module count, low/short wire designs. The problem with Tesla's design, as you have unfortunately discovered, is that when a module dies, it kills an entire side of the vehicle.

Thank you. I had no warning it was failing. It happened just when I parked the car. Can this failure happen while driving?