Obie
Member
Oh i see thanks.Start the charge manually, set to 20A, stop the charge manually. It'll "remember" the charge rate for that particular location.
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Oh i see thanks.Start the charge manually, set to 20A, stop the charge manually. It'll "remember" the charge rate for that particular location.
No worries. It's another "Teslaism"Oh i see thanks.
Yes, usually when you start a charge the amps setting adjusts depending on what your charge point can offer. You can reduce that figure once the charge has commenced (and it should be remembered by the car). Though the default before the charge has started is most frequently shown as 16A sometimes mine will actually show 32A when plugged in but not yet started a charge.I have to set my charge limit to add 36% in 4 hours otherwise it will run over into the standard rate, easier to use the app to set the limit than in the car.
One weird thing is that i can't set the charge amps higher than 16A but it charges at 32A, what would you do if you needed to set the max charge rate at 20A for example?
Smart plugs normally have a heat sensor that will cut the power if they get too hot. If you are going to give it a go I suggest doing a 1 hour test charge first where you can keep an eye on things. It’s normal for the plug to get warm but it shouldn’t get dangerously hot. Check the spec of your smart socket to see if it does have a heat cutout… if so it’s likely to cut the power anyway.I just trickle charge starting at 00:30 and wake up pretty early so usually end up turning it off by 4.30am or sometimes it overruns but 30minutes. However I have a spare Amazon smart plug and im wondering if I can set that instead so it’s on and ready in time for 00:30 and then it goes off at 04:30? Or would that be dangerous when using a 3pin plug to charge?
as long as there is good thermal insulation and your roof is not glowing via police helicopter thermal cameras - it's all goodI had a timer for (Discharge) Growing Lights, back before they were LED. They took a lot of power and would burn out a normal 13AMP plug-in-timer switch.
Basically the box had two 13AMP plugs, and a 13AMP socket. Plug both 13AMP into normal sockets, and one of those was labeled to be plugged into a bog standard timer. When power was provided on that side (i.e. timer was ON) a relay allowed power through on the other side (which then powered the socket on the box). The timer side only needed very modest power, so the timer was quite happy - and the pins didn't arc, and thus deteriorate, when the timer switched, because the more beefy relay took care of the high-power side.
So if a smart-plug / timer is a problem that sort of "relay" arrangement could be used. If my explanation not enough to find one I can dig out some more details.
as long as there is good thermal insulation and your roof is not glowing via police helicopter thermal cameras - it's all good
They want the car plugged in and able to draw power once it has been charged to the required level.
You make total sense which is why Tesla probably won’t do it! I thought the whole point of these app’s was to make everything simple and offer options but it doesn’t appear to be the case.I don't think that is incompatible with having the ability to stop charging at the end of Off Peak. Could still (choose) to pre-condition the car before departure, knowing that would use grid at Peak Price.
It just needs to be an option - then that can be introduced retrospectively, and not interfere with "historical usage behaviour". The way I envisage it if you were using "Stop at end of Off Peak" you'd have to manually do "Start charging" from the APP (to force charging beyond the end of Off Peak)
it doesn’t appear to be the case