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switching between 48amp and 24 amp randomly

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I saw a post about this before, don't know if anyone ever solved it. The stupid charger keeps starting at 48amps and then drops down to 24amps. I don't know if it coincided with the new wall charger after they warrantied the first one but I don't think so. Someone seemed to mention in one of the threads a problem with the onboard charging. I manually set it back to 48amps in the app. Had to stop the charging so it would go back to 48 amps. Never had this problem the first couple of years or so.
 
I saw a post about this before, don't know if anyone ever solved it. The stupid charger keeps starting at 48amps and then drops down to 24amps. I don't know if it coincided with the new wall charger after they warrantied the first one but I don't think so. Someone seemed to mention in one of the threads a problem with the onboard charging. I manually set it back to 48amps in the app. Had to stop the charging so it would go back to 48 amps. Never had this problem the first couple of years or so.

Then it probably is not your charger. It is probably your wiring. The charger software is detecting unusual voltage change patterns which usually coincides with excess heating on the wires or connections and is backing off the amperage so as to not burn down your house. Check all your wiring and connections going back to the breaker. Also check to see if your panel is overloaded or even your street transformer. What voltage does the car report before it starts charging, and when it is charging at 48 amps?
 
Then it probably is not your charger. It is probably your wiring. The charger software is detecting unusual voltage change patterns which usually coincides with excess heating on the wires or connections and is backing off the amperage so as to not burn down your house. Check all your wiring and connections going back to the breaker. Also check to see if your panel is overloaded.
The problem is it worked fine for years and the electrician that put it in did many many of these. its a 60 amp breaker and panel is good. Right now I reset it to 48 amps and its been charging since I made this post at 48amps. It really seems to be an issue with the wall charger or the onboard circuitry. Kinda at a loss at what to do at this point.
 
The problem is it worked fine for years and the electrician that put it in did many many of these. its a 60 amp breaker and panel is good. Right now I reset it to 48 amps and its been charging since I made this post at 48amps. It really seems to be an issue with the wall charger or the onboard circuitry. Kinda at a loss at what to do at this point.
I gave you things to do???
 
Onboard chargers are in blocks of 16 amps, so that's not likely your problem.

The Gen3 HPWCs with model numbers ending in -F and possibly before had dubious relays, and would throttle back to 24 or even 0 amps as they overheated. Assuming you have a Gen3 and it has more recent firmware, it would throttle back in much smaller increments. They seem to have fixed the relay issue in -G and beyond, but its possible there are still bad relays even in a good batch.

If you happen to have an android phone, get the Tewamo app and see what the PCB temperature is reading when its been charging at 48 amps for an hour or two(or when it starts to throttle back, whichever comes first)
 
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So it is a -G. I realized that when they did the warranty, I didn't have to mess with the wires because the top just pops off an on. The beaker is warm but it is not hot. I can hold my fingers on it essentially indefinitely . The cord going into the car is quite warm. I noticed a couple of error messages in the car right after starting charging saying that the thing is overheating, but nothing since changing it back to 48 amps for the past hour or whatever.
 
Its the same, I called support and they said their is an issue with the wiring. Opened it up and checked the wiring. It was fine, no hint of burning or anything. Wires felt tight too, but I did put a wrench on the terminals and the black one definitely could be tightened so I tightened it up and maybe that resolves the problem. Main issue is Tesla won't do anything unless I have an electrician come out and I don't really plan on spending 300 dollars or whatever for someone to take pictures to make tesla happy.
 
So it is a -G. I realized that when they did the warranty, I didn't have to mess with the wires because the top just pops off an on. The beaker is warm but it is not hot. I can hold my fingers on it essentially indefinitely . The cord going into the car is quite warm. I noticed a couple of error messages in the car right after starting charging saying that the thing is overheating, but nothing since changing it back to 48 amps for the past hour or whatever.
We had one guy on here who tried to use the wall plate from an older wall connector with a new one, and had problems. You might need to change it.
 
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That is interesting. not too hard to swap it but i cant see the tolerances being that tight.
He didn't either. As I recall, his new WC didn't work at all until he changed it. He was adding a second wall connector and was able to swap things back to test. The one combination of new WC with old plate simply didn't work, although the other way worked fine.
 
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He didn't either. As I recall, his new WC didn't work at all until he changed it. He was adding a second wall connector and was able to swap things back to test. The one combination of new WC with old plate simply didn't work, although the other way worked fine.

For reference, that thread is here:

 
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