Hi. We have a Gen 3 wall connector with 18’ cord attached to the wall for my wife’s Model Y. We are moving to a new house and the problem is at our new house, the electrical panel is located on the right side of the garage and about 10’ in so the 18’ cord would not reach unless she backs in. Is it possible to buy just the 24’ cord or do I need to buy a new wall connector? Is it pretty easy to swap them? Thank you
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Wall connector - swap or extend?
- Thread starter wkageyama113
- Start date
I know you're going to think it's a ID10T error, but I still get the dumb never-ending-spiny circle when I use the "wrong" wire box / backing plate.
I rigged up my 18' and 24' Gen 3 TWC wire boxes to their own branch circuits on their own 60A Square D breakers with #6 THHN throughout.
If I shove the 24' EVSE body onto the wire box from the 18' Gen 3 kit, it simply will not provision. But when I put it back on the right base, it works. And to make things worse... if I put the 18' EVSE body onto the 24' wire box, it provisioned fine as well. BTW, these Gen 3 units are both Tesla ones... not the more expensive J1772 variant.
When installed properly, I was able to master/slave these things where I capped the total 2 EVSEs at 64A. When I try to charge my Model 3 and Model X each at 48A, the EVSEs down-rate them each to 32A. Then, when one car charging stops, the other vehicle slowly goes back to 48A. So I'm almost smart enough to do this properly (almost).
As @jjrandorin knows, I am the dumbest of the dumb-azzes in the Energy sub forum and I probably still am to blame for some variable that I can't explain. But for real, I have no clue why the "wrong" wire box will prevent provisioning. I agree the wire boxes look like dumb plastic/metal things that just happen to have lugs and a busbar.
Maybe the EVSE can't detect the 240v and ground with the wrong wire box? I have no clue. Anyway, proof I actually installed the things. Unfortunately I lack proof that I am not highly regarded.
PS... 64A is what my NEC load calc suggests is the maximum additional continuous load I could add.
PSS... Those are some damn sexy disconnects.
PSSS... Home Depot has sold out of 3/4" EMT. There's a sriracha shortage and a 3/4" EMT shortage.
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There is a set of some kind of connectors from the back plate to the main unit. I would guess there's something iffy in that connection maybe.
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Yeah, I ran all new conductors and breaker to put the 18' wire box back on the wall. So the iffy connection would have to persist with my old conductors and new conductors... which seems unlikely. The breakers are in the same panelboard as my primary home loads, so it's not the panelboard that is to blame either.
I agree with Rocky, there may be some issue with how the blade push-ins work with the new Wall Connector body and older wire box. But the 18' EVSE body works fine in the 18' wire box, and the 24' newer EVSE has a green LED when it's plugged into the 18' wire box. It just won't provision over wifi.
So yep... who knows.
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Ooooo damn the scumbags are getting wiser…
Caught on camera: Thieves now targeting one pricey electric car part
Viewers contacted the NBC4 I-Team to say thieves stole the charging cables from their electric cars, right out of their driveways. There’s a surprising reason why.
www.nbclosangeles.com
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Who's cables are this expensive?Ooooo damn the scumbags are getting wiser…
Caught on camera: Thieves now targeting one pricey electric car part
Viewers contacted the NBC4 I-Team to say thieves stole the charging cables from their electric cars, right out of their driveways. There’s a surprising reason why.
From your link: "And replacing his stolen cable was pricey at $2,700"
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