Tesla Offer Electric Frunk: Alignment issues

[Deathchime]

I've installed the the Tesla Offer Mark 4 kit. It's fully functional but I've got gaps unsightly gaps. I've looked at adjustment videos that speak to the adjustment knobs and gapping the frunk cover and the nose cone but as you can see, that's not my problem. Would appreciate any adjustment advice.

By design, the kit replaces the struts and alters their lower mount points. This seems to raise slightly raise the hood at the hinge point near the windshield which I dislike but could live with. What I can't live with is the yawning, arching gap mid-panel.

Secondly, in the bird's eye view, I'm having some left-right alignment issues that I'm not sure how to tweak.

 

[NeverGoingBack]

I dunno …… mine looks sort of similar on the sides. Might have been that way before installing lectric frunk though. Never noticed. Can’t see your concern about the hinge point.

I would just recommend enjoying the lectric frunk. That’s what I’m doing anyway.

My gripe was the new beeping when the car wakes up. But after a few days I’ve become accustomed to it.

Love my Y …… gaps and all!

I get a kick out of opening both ends of the car from inside when I arrive somewhere to unload.

 

[Deathchime]

I agree that I didn’t look closely at the starting state but I feel like I would’ve noticed.

Also agree about the beep. It’s a bit irritating to hear it when the car powers up. Might disconnect the buzzer.

 

[dasmittyman]

Question for everyone, I attempted to install the Mark 4 this afternoon. All was fine until I went install the driver side strut. I hooked up the bottom of the strut just fine. When I pulled the clip for the top of the strut the clip slid around and is now stuck. The clip is blocking the hole where the ball joint would go and I am unable to pull the clip out with the limited space. I didn't think about how difficult it would be to get to the bottom clip and am unable to. Any suggestions on how to uninstall the strut (unhook the bottom part) or free the top clip. I'll need a new clip no matter what I think, it is pretty mangled at this point but with picks and needle nose pliers I am unable to free the clip.

 

[N1L CO2]

Question for everyone, I attempted to install the Mark 4 this afternoon. All was fine until I went install the driver side strut. I hooked up the bottom of the strut just fine. When I pulled the clip for the top of the strut the clip slid around and is now stuck. The clip is blocking the hole where the ball joint would go and I am unable to pull the clip out with the limited space. I didn't think about how difficult it would be to get to the bottom clip and am unable to. Any suggestions on how to uninstall the strut (unhook the bottom part) or free the top clip. I'll need a new clip no matter what I think, it is pretty mangled at this point but with picks and needle nose pliers I am unable to free the clip.

Sounds like the clip spun around and got stuck covering the hole. And now that it's been bent out of shape, it's increasingly difficult to dislodge it if not impossible without cutting it off. I am not sure what tools you have available at your disposal but I would try a Dremel high-speed cutting wheel to at least cut a piece of the clip off that's covering the hole.

 

[dasmittyman]

Sounds like the clip spun around and got stuck covering the hole. And now that it's been bent out of shape, it's increasingly difficult to dislodge it if not impossible without cutting it off. I am not sure what tools you have available at your disposal but I would try a Dremel high-speed cutting wheel to at least cut a piece of the clip off that's covering the hole.my

my last resort was going to be the dremel. I ended up being able to shimmy the clip with a lot of patience and replaced it! This process got me thinking though, how would one remove the strut now? The clip at the bottom of the strut is hidden. The hex screw is blocked by the strut so you can simply unscrew the mounting plate.

 

[zikronix]

my last resort was going to be the dremel. I ended up being able to shimmy the clip with a lot of patience and replaced it! This process got me thinking though, how would one remove the strut now? The clip at the bottom of the strut is hidden. The hex screw is blocked by the strut so you can simply unscrew the mounting plate.

I just had to remove a hansshow set because it was defective out of the box, but you can take a pry bar similar to this one 28-3/8 in. Jumbo Pry Bar and just push again the bracket and strut and it will pop off. The retaining clip is just a clip and is designed to flex. While I have everyones attention...screw these auto frunk openers. 1) they have only a two year warranty and support while better with tesla offer is still sketchy 2) they are a pain in the ass to remove 3) there is a legit safety concern, theres no landing check on the hansshow, and the one on the tesla offer is also a joke because it can still latch with out capture from videos ive seen

 

[jfort]

I just had to remove a hansshow set because it was defective out of the box, but you can take a pry bar similar to this one 28-3/8 in. Jumbo Pry Bar and just push again the bracket and strut and it will pop off. The retaining clip is just a clip and is designed to flex. While I have everyones attention...screw these auto frunk openers. 1) they have only a two year warranty and support while better with tesla offer is still sketchy 2) they are a pain in the ass to remove 3) there is a legit safety concern, theres no landing check on the hansshow, and the one on the tesla offer is also a joke because it can still latch with out capture from videos ive seen

Thank you for that idea. My struts won’t close anymore, tried getting a replacement frunk control unit and nothing. I’m trying to remove to send back and ran into the issue of not being able to get the bottom of the struts off.

 

[Madsen203]

To OP: doe the middle picture left to right alignment, it appears when you remounted the front latch, it could be slightly off there. 1/8th of an inch there could show as a larger gap further down the panel.

to @zikronix — the new EV offer has a landing check feature. I would hope this address some of the concern. My largest concern is what ever I put in there, if it hits the emergency release button, ir could open while driving potentially. Haven’t tested this but likely true.

I just ordered Mark IV version that has the landing check feature. The latch takes quite a bit of pressure to get the hood to click in. I’m worried the system won’t have the power to do this but I could be wrong as it could be electronically pulling the spring to allow for easier closing.

seeing how flimsy the frunk is, I opted to order this. I do like leaving smelly foods or large Starbucks orders in there because if it spills, it’s easy to clean compared to the carpeted rear trunk.

it’s a bit expensive—especially for already paying a fortune for the car, but it would make the frunk more usable, less prone to damage (bending), and hassle free. With a kid on the way, it’ll be a great spot to put all of his related items (diaper bag, toys, blanket, etc).

 

[Madsen203]

I got mine installed and working today. I have the same hood alignment issue. They acknowledged it and they are trying to redesign the bracket. I’ll follow up with them in a month and see what they have to say.

for anyone else who has issues with it working after install, I installed the firmware update and now it works perfectly.

I rinsed the car off and no water got into the frunk but I think the edges sticking up is not pretty. Also have same right oriented hood gaps—even adjusting to the left quite a bit. Not sure what it is but it’s pretty minimal and I only see it when I’m washing the car.

 

[N1L CO2]

I got mine installed and working today. I have the same hood alignment issue. They acknowledged it and they are trying to redesign the bracket. I’ll follow up with them in a month and see what they have to say.

for anyone else who has issues with it working after install, I installed the firmware update and now it works perfectly.

I rinsed the car off and no water got into the frunk but I think the edges sticking up is not pretty. Also have same right oriented hood gaps—even adjusting to the left quite a bit. Not sure what it is but it’s pretty minimal and I only see it when I’m washing the car.

Glad you worked out all the bugs and got your unit to function properly. Would you mind providing a step-by-step as to how you updated the firmware? I think it would serve a lot of the members here well, myself included.

 

[Madsen203]

Glad you worked out all the bugs and got your unit to function properly. Would you mind providing a step-by-step as to how you updated the firmware? I think it would serve a lot of the members here well, myself included.

I reached out to tech support to get the most recent update file.

download file to a micro Sand name it update.yst

unplug ECU from wiring harness

plug in micro SD behind the rubber cap label facing top of ECU

plug in wiring harness

light will flash rapidly then go to solid light which indicate it’s done. Took like 2 seconds.

unplug wiring harness and then remove Micro SD.

plug back in and press and hold black button to initialize.

works perfect every time now. Why the unit didn’t come with this or worked right away is beyond me but if that is all it took, easy enough.

ps: must use 32gb or less micro SD. I got a 32gb from Walmart for 8.38.

 

[N1L CO2]

I reached out to tech support to get the most recent update file.

download file to a micro Sand name it update.yst

unplug ECU from wiring harness

plug in micro SD behind the rubber cap label facing top of ECU

plug in wiring harness

light will flash rapidly then go to solid light which indicate it’s done. Took like 2 seconds.

unplug wiring harness and then remove Micro SD.

plug back in and press and hold black button to initialize.

works perfect every time now. Why the unit didn’t come with this or worked right away is beyond me but if that is all it took, easy enough.

ps: must use 32gb or less micro SD. I got a 32gb from Walmart for 8.38.

Thanks. Was it this one you downloaded for the Y?

YFmk4.1 updateF3006.yst​

 

[Madsen203]

Thanks. Was it this one you downloaded for the Y?

YFmk4.1 updateF3006.yst​

Newer version. 3105.

he sent me the file through telegram (similar to WhatsApp). I can email file if needed. I can’t attach it here.

 

[N1L CO2]

Newer version. 3105.

he sent me the file through telegram (similar to WhatsApp). I can email file if needed. I can’t attach it here.

Pinged you via DM with my email address. I, too, have the Telegram app if you want to use that instead. Thank you.

 

[N1L CO2]

Newer version. 3105.

he sent me the file through telegram (similar to WhatsApp). I can email file if needed. I can’t attach it here.

Delay my last. Just chatted with Ray and it seems the 3105 version is NOT compatible with my control unit. Thanks!

 

[Madsen203]

Delay my last. Just chatted with Ray and it seems the 3105 version is NOT compatible with my control unit. Thanks!

They are responsive. Glad you were able to figure it out.

 

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To the OP: I have similar gap issues after my install. I live with it - but I’d prefer it to align better but I’m not positive how to adjust.

I’m just now learning that there are updates for firmware? How do I know what firmware I’m currently running? My frunk has worked well for the last 8 months.

 

[Madsen203]

To the OP: I have similar gap issues after my install. I live with it - but I’d prefer it to align better but I’m not positive how to adjust.

I’m just now learning that there are updates for firmware? How do I know what firmware I’m currently running? My frunk has worked well for the last 8 months.

Don’t fix what ain’t broke?
They are coming out with new design for mounts hopefully soon. That will fix alignment issues.

 

[Tha_Ape]

I think the redesign looks like this
(note the L and R are on the opposite pieces)