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Tesla Wall Connector Troubleshooting

I just got my used 2018 Model S, and had the Wall Connector installed last week. It worked when it was installed, but the next day, after driving the car and plugging it back in, it stopped working. Every time I plug it in, the voltage goes up to the 240's, but the amp stays at 0-1, then a clicking sound from the Wall Connector occurs, then the voltage goes back down to 0, and then this cycle repeats until I unplug the Wall connector.

The whole time, the Wall Connector is green signifying it is working well. I took the car to a friend's house who only has a NEMA 14-50 but it charged well. It also charged well on my home 120V outlet and on the supercharger.

I called Tesla and they are sending me a new Wall Connector. However, I just wanted to get the opinion of people on this forum whether that will fix the issue...I hope it's not something to do with the electrical supply here in Ohio, which is not great.

Thanks!
Jonathan
 
Try turning circuit breaker off, then on, and try wall connector again. Suggest your electrician, not you because it's dangerous, temporarily connect a heavy load such as a portable space heater (~1200 watts) from each hot to common line while measuring voltage. This basic test might expose a problem with your electrical supply. You may have a loose connection either in WC or breaker panel that worked initially, then sparked creating carbon for more resistance, and significantly less current flow for charging failure. Your WC has circuitry to detect this problem and will safely shut-down. Let us know what was the cause.
 

user212_nr

Active Member
Aug 26, 2019
1,407
875
US
My wall connector keeps stopping every +/- 10 min, but at nights it seems to start and complete the job. Every morning it is full (80%). Any idear what could be the problem?

Possibly you have an inconsistent/insufficient electrical supply. If the voltage drops, the HPWC will shutoff the power. At night, when you use less electricity in your house, possibly the drop is removed.

You could probably fix the issue by lowering the number of amps you charge at, but you would want to figure out exactly what is your problem to be sure it is wired safely.

So start with who installed it, what wire gauge, breaker, settings, and then how much power do you have to the house and how much do you actually use.

HPWC problem | Tesla
 

user212_nr

Active Member
Aug 26, 2019
1,407
875
US
I just got my used 2018 Model S, and had the Wall Connector installed last week. It worked when it was installed, but the next day, after driving the car and plugging it back in, it stopped working. Every time I plug it in, the voltage goes up to the 240's, but the amp stays at 0-1, then a clicking sound from the Wall Connector occurs, then the voltage goes back down to 0, and then this cycle repeats until I unplug the Wall connector.

The whole time, the Wall Connector is green signifying it is working well. I took the car to a friend's house who only has a NEMA 14-50 but it charged well. It also charged well on my home 120V outlet and on the supercharger.

I called Tesla and they are sending me a new Wall Connector. However, I just wanted to get the opinion of people on this forum whether that will fix the issue...I hope it's not something to do with the electrical supply here in Ohio, which is not great.

Thanks!
Jonathan

If they sent you a new wall connector, then you ought to be pretty sure that that was the issue (not a cheap device). Did they leave you the old one?
 

Rocky_H

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2015
7,305
8,996
Boise, ID
Stop, u have wiring problem. R u sure electrician used 4 wire? Red, black, green, white.
There might possibly be a wiring problem, but not because of this incorrect reason. The wall connector is a 240V only device. It does not need the dual voltage of 120V and 240V, so it does not use 4 wires. The neutral is not used or necessary.
 

Merle

Member
Apr 5, 2019
179
178
Tahoe
Bad wiring?

Drop the amperage to as low as it'll go (40A? Been a while since I looked at the options) and see if the problem goes away. You may have a bad ground/neutral.

I've seen panel work where instead of getting new breakers to manage a two-phase setup, two bonded pairs was use in lieu and only one leg (each) tied to give a 240v potential. This was obviously done at the very bottom of the panel which can increase risks. Then you may have issues with a leaky ground/neutral as well.
 

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