The FINAL "where do I hook up my amp" thread.

[Capt Starbucks]

Hi all,

I know this has been discussed in great detail in the past, I've spent many weeks reading all I can about the topic, but it seems there is conflicting information on each of the three known amp power hook up locations. I'm going with the NVX Boost system. I'm happy installing this myself as I've done a dozen or so installations in ICE cars in my life.

Can anyone offer any final advice before I proceed with this project? I was planning on using the 12v battery for both pos and neg but sounds like there are going to be codes thrown. The cigar lighter won't flow enough power, and the penthouse? The penthouse seems to be the least worst place?

I appreciate your advice. The factory sound of the base system in my 2012 is due for upgrade.

Rob in Tacoma

 

[Ciaopec]

Well, I suspect you will get the same conflicting information on this go around as well.

 

[beatle]

You can get 12v from the battery without a code. No need to run the ground all the way back to the front though. I don't think there's a 12v output from the penthouse, is there? The BMS runs on 12v but it has its own DC/DC converter that plugs into the HV battery directly.

The problems arise when trying to get 12v from the "12v" battery on the refresh cars (actually closer to 16v).

If you're concerned with codes, just run the amp and sub outside the car on a direct line from the 12v battery, hook up your own audio source and see what happens. This way you don't spend hours routing the wire.

 

[bo3bdar]

Don't know if this helps, but I started a draft blog post for this: Powering aftermarket stereos – draft – Thinking like an Engineer

My conclusion is that the only one you want to use is the 12V penthouse connector. If you can set up the amp to delay-on, you bypass any of the error messages people have seen.


The front battery is not a good choice because Tesla has charge monitoring of the battery looking for 12V failure modes. If you add a drain there you mess up their monitoring and can get faulty errors, or no warning before it dies.

You also cannot typically get the watts you want for a beefier stereo from there, because the charge circuit itself is limited, so running loud for too long will drain the front 12V.

Edit: Ah, sorry, my details are for Model 3, and may not apply to Model S.

 

[GWord]

2017 Model S, so slightly different than your 2012 but here’s what I did:

• I picked up +12V from the fuse block inlet. I ran that through an existing firewall penetration down on the passenger side footwell.
• I got -12V ground from one of the charge port harness anchor bolts. These secure the charge port and wiring to the grounded, aluminum frame of the vehicle.
• My vehicle has premium audio, so I tapped into the existing sub harness for the audio signal and just did a short wiring run underneath the trunk lining.
• I forget how I handled the ”remote” wire for amp turn on. I think I remember the included line level converter having a provision for audio detection and rem wire function.

 

[St3phen]

Hi all,

I know this has been discussed in great detail in the past, I've spent many weeks reading all I can about the topic, but it seems there is conflicting information on each of the three known amp power hook up locations. I'm going with the NVX Boost system. I'm happy installing this myself as I've done a dozen or so installations in ICE cars in my life.

Can anyone offer any final advice before I proceed with this project? I was planning on using the 12v battery for both pos and neg but sounds like there are going to be codes thrown. The cigar lighter won't flow enough power, and the penthouse? The penthouse seems to be the least worst place?

I appreciate your advice. The factory sound of the base system in my 2012 is due for upgrade.

Rob in Tacoma

I installed the NVX boost on my Model 3 and tapped into the penthouse. Never had an issue in over 2 years. I did disconnect the stock sub.