When I installed the new Dunlop Direzza 101 tires I could tell that the fronts were out of balance so I took them back to the shop and sure enough one of them was. They rebalanced the tire but it still didn't feel right. These guys can shave tires and balance them on the car which of course costs extra. After having them do the works, the tires now feel great but it cost me an extra $70 dollars per tire to get them right. So it appears to me that I got a tire that was out of round. I don't know if this was a one in a million thing with the inexpensive Dunlops or if this would be a common problem. So basically this set of tires cost me the initial price plus the $140 to get them right. Would I recommend them? Yes, provided they meet your needs. Will I buy them again next time? Probably not, due to the fact that they squeal when I burn rubber. I like to light em up frequently but I have cut back due to the embarrassing noise they make while doing so. If I was 16 again I probably would have paid extra for that feature! :biggrin: Next time I will be looking for a tire that doesn't squeal or cost an arm and a leg.
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Tire Balance Problem
- Thread starter Pantera Dude
- Start date
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- Tags
- Roadster
Roadster is very sensitive to tire balance, especially on the front. I think it's because the steering is so direct.
You'll find they will be out of balance again after driving on them for a while. All tires have a tendency to shift balance as they wear, but you tend to notice it more with the Roadster.
You'll find they will be out of balance again after driving on them for a while. All tires have a tendency to shift balance as they wear, but you tend to notice it more with the Roadster.
The first thing to do is to check that the tire is seated correctly. The guide rib should be even all the way around (wheel off the ground of course) on both sides of the tire/wheel assembly. If you're not sure, reseat properly anyway. Proper method:
1. Deflate the tire.
2. Lubricate the bead areas with approved tire lubricant.
3. Reseat the tire over the safety hump (you had to unseat the tire to lube it)
4. Inflate the tire to the maximum shown on the sidewall.
5. Deflate the tire to zero.
6. Inflate the tire to the maximum again.
7. Deflate the tire to the running pressure.
Also some tires have dots on them. Red dot opposite the valve stem. Red dot indicates the heavy spot on the tire, the valve stem is usually the heaviest spot on the wheel. (Yeah, I know some say to match the red dot to the valve stem--that's for steel wheels where the rubber valve stem is the lightest place.) Green dot is the low spot on the tire. (Note: green dots on GY tires indicates they were X-rayed, not the low spot. Manufacturers differ somewhat in their dot practices.) Match up with the high spot on the wheel (if marked--not all wheels are marked) Prefer matching the green dot rather than the red dot.
1. Deflate the tire.
2. Lubricate the bead areas with approved tire lubricant.
3. Reseat the tire over the safety hump (you had to unseat the tire to lube it)
4. Inflate the tire to the maximum shown on the sidewall.
5. Deflate the tire to zero.
6. Inflate the tire to the maximum again.
7. Deflate the tire to the running pressure.
Also some tires have dots on them. Red dot opposite the valve stem. Red dot indicates the heavy spot on the tire, the valve stem is usually the heaviest spot on the wheel. (Yeah, I know some say to match the red dot to the valve stem--that's for steel wheels where the rubber valve stem is the lightest place.) Green dot is the low spot on the tire. (Note: green dots on GY tires indicates they were X-rayed, not the low spot. Manufacturers differ somewhat in their dot practices.) Match up with the high spot on the wheel (if marked--not all wheels are marked) Prefer matching the green dot rather than the red dot.
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