Toe arm or camber arm first ?

[Loco_Nomad]

I'm planning on lowering my RWD model 3 about 1 inch on tein flex z coilovers and want to make sure tires won't be destroyed during daily driving and alignment is properly set. What should I get with this much lowering first - Toe arm or camber arm? I guess I could get both, but out of budget right now. Which one has more impact? thanks
Arms I want to get are from Whiteline btw

 

[dsgerbc]

You'll be fine with OEM arms.

 

[Lindenwood]

You’ll likely be fine with stock arms. Monitor for our-of-spec toe as that will kill your tires much faster than camber.

 

[MacO512]

Related question - I'm planning to get rear camber adjustable arms in the next few weeks in order to do more track days with even tire wear and better performance. For now I'll keep stock suspension but in future years possibly consider coilovers. Should I get adjustable rear toe arms now when I install the rear camber arms or will the stock toe arms be good at this time?

The ~$400 extra expense for toe is ok but if it would only provide very little to no benefit it would seem better to save the time/hassle/expense.

 

[Lindenwood]

Related question - I'm planning to get rear camber adjustable arms in the next few weeks in order to do more track days with even tire wear and better performance. For now I'll keep stock suspension but in future years possibly consider coilovers. Should I get adjustable rear toe arms now when I install the rear camber arms or will the stock toe arms be good at this time?

The ~$400 extra expense for toe is ok but if it would only provide very little to no benefit it would seem better to save the time/hassle/expense.

I believe you can still zero toe with the factory eccentric bolt, but it is almost impossible to do without a rack. Conversely, it is pretty easy to re-align toe using toe arms given how much easier and more predictable it is to use turnbuckles. Specifically, each 0.1 degree of toe is about 1/6 of a turn on the turnbuckles (one side of the hex); you can measure toe with simple tools while the car is on the ground, write down the required adjustment, pull the wheels, and adjust the turnbuckles by the required amounts. I can’t think of a way to reliably and precisely adjust eccentric bolts using typical measuring tools available to even a pretty advanced home mechanic.

Bottom line: if you are okay aligning periodically in a professional rack, you can likely get away with just camber arms. If you want to be able to adjust toe on your own from time to time (I.e. after adjusting camber, adjusting ride height, or just correcting for settling), you’ll probably want the toe arms as well.

 

[dsgerbc]

I believe you can still zero toe with the factory eccentric bolt, but it is almost impossible to do without a rack. Conversely, it is pretty easy to re-align toe using toe arms given how much easier and more predictable it is to use turnbuckles. Specifically, each 0.1 degree of toe is about 1/6 of a turn on the turnbuckles (one side of the hex); you can measure toe with simple tools while the car is on the ground, write down the required adjustment, pull the wheels, and adjust the turnbuckles by the required amounts. I can’t think of a way to reliably and precisely adjust eccentric bolts using typical measuring tools available to even a pretty advanced home mechanic.

Bottom line: if you are okay aligning periodically in a professional rack, you can likely get away with just camber arms. If you want to be able to adjust toe on your own from time to time (I.e. after adjusting camber, adjusting ride height, or just correcting for settling), you’ll probably want the toe arms as well.

That's a good description.
However, if you plan on messing with the car a lot, it's better to invest into a DIY alignment solution from the get go.
It's reasonably cheap to go get one's toe aligned at most shops. BUT, changing toe in the rear also changes camber nontrivially. If you want a precise alignment, you'll need a custom alignment specialist who'd spend the time to go back-n-forth between toe and camber in the rear to dial in what you want. That's $$$ where I live.
I use Paco motorsports hub stands. Those aren't ideal, but they work. For rules compliance reasons, I currently don't have rear toe arms installed and OEM hardware is enough to align the car this those stands.

Related question - I'm planning to get rear camber adjustable arms in the next few weeks in order to do more track days with even tire wear and better performance. For now I'll keep stock suspension but in future years possibly consider coilovers. Should I get adjustable rear toe arms now when I install the rear camber arms or will the stock toe arms be good at this time?

The ~$400 extra expense for toe is ok but if it would only provide very little to no benefit it would seem better to save the time/hassle/expense.

Keep in mind that most people giving advice about aftermarket parts here are generally lowered by 1"-2". You're gonna be one of the few trying to add rear camber at stock ride height. It shouldn't matter much, but who knows, maybe it does.