trading down from LR to RWD?

[Mrklaw]

anyone done it? Toying with it going from a 3LR to a YRWD. Zero cost to change, save about £50 a month and move from tesla loan (7 years!) to a 4 year PCP. We’ll be building up savings alongside to pay off the lump at the end if needed but it gives us a safety net if they keep messing about with prices etc.

It would be a downgrade in range though, but it seems a much more usable range than the original SR+. Assume fine for long trips just maybe you can’t skip that SC stop where you might in a LR.

thoughts?

 

[Js1977]

I would say try one (if you haven't already). If the performance and range is of no use/point to you and the maths work out, then its not the usual man maths and our opinion is null and void.

What I would remind you is that on longer trips it will charge slower and only good up to 80% but that is something for you to work out if you haven't yet.

 

[kpanda17]

it is def compelling, LFPs are amazing going from lowest maybe 4% to 100%, range utilization is great
but be weary of the very cold and LFP performance which is not as good as lith ion
Lithium Ion batteries can run better in the very cold, but again, loose the utilization for other temp conditions, down to maybe the same 4%, but only up to say 95%
sorry to say, with global warming, maybe LFPs are better for our future as not as many very cold days

 

[WannabeOwner]

Toying with it going from a 3LR to a YRWD

Both Wifee and I much preferred driving the M3 to the MY - we switched because we needed hatchback and towing.

I can't see MY RWD in ABetterRoutePlanner - might be worth asking in their forum if they have any data yet (if you wanted to do a comparison for longer trips)

 

[GeorgeSymonds]

You seem to recognise the lump sum, but saving 60 a month, 600 a year, 4 years, call it 2.5k, even 7 years and 5k, isn’t going to get you close to the balloon, so in practice this option isn’t saying you anything except improving short term cash flow from what I can see. If you want to do it, fine, but I wouldn’t try and justify it in financial grounds.

As for doing it, I much prefer the MY over our 2020 M3, the design improved in quite a few areas, little things but they add up (the wheel arch liners on the m3 can collapse and start to leave gaps between them and the body, not on the my, mud flaps were an after thought, bit in the my, the powered strut requires rubber to be cut back on the m3, not on the my.. it’s these type of design details. Battery wise, the LFP battery isn’t that much smaller than the early earlier M3 LR, efficiency is still good if not better if you’re coming from a pre heat pump car to the MY. The only downside to me is the MY suspension and it’s said to be better now

 

[Mrklaw]

yeah I shouldn’t try and justify - the £50 a month is a bonus. The move from Loan to PCP is attractive though - 4 year PCP with option to walk away or 5 years left of loan with no safety net - with currently Tesla turbulence who knows. I’d probably be fine, prices will bottom out and I doubt I’d ‘be in negative equity though.

we’d be saving up separately so plan to have money for the balloon if needed -not expecting the £50 to cover it, just adds to the pot.

fundamentally its a ‘car feel and practicality’ vs lower range. I don’t even need the hatch but do miss the hatch on my BMW 4GC so thats a nice to have. The higher seats are my main draw - wife has back issues at the moment and I creak sometimes getting out

 

[pheo]

I can’t speak to the MY, and I’ve not spent lots of time in an M3LR, but I’ve been very pleased with the performance of my LFP 22 model year M3. Rhe battery charging speed has only been a problem once (which was mainly my fault trying to charge at 45% from cold just after I got it), when planned and preconditioning properly it charges fast enough, and of course being a smaller pack is full sooner anyway.

 

[Rooster6655]

anyone done it? Toying with it going from a 3LR to a YRWD. Zero cost to change, save about £50 a month and move from tesla loan (7 years!) to a 4 year PCP. We’ll be building up savings alongside to pay off the lump at the end if needed but it gives us a safety net if they keep messing about with prices etc.

It would be a downgrade in range though, but it seems a much more usable range than the original SR+. Assume fine for long trips just maybe you can’t skip that SC stop where you might in a LR.

thoughts?

Unless you are using all the range in a day then the downgrade in range is unlikely to be an issue, I expect the RWD to be very efficient and be good even though it isn't AWD

 

[GeorgeSymonds]

I suppose the other thing is performance - the MY RWD is a fair bit more sluggish but hardly slow. I’ve not driven one to know whether that would be a problem for me, you kind of get used to the cars get up and go

 

[Mrklaw]

I suppose the other thing is performance - the MY RWD is a fair bit more sluggish but hardly slow. I’ve not driven one to know whether that would be a problem for me, you kind of get used to the cars get up and go

yep I’ll test that tomorrow. I’m not allowed to use all of the get up and go in the LR anyway when I have family in the car but I hope there is still pep off the line and when rolling

 

[HMHM]

anyone done it? Toying with it going from a 3LR to a YRWD. Zero cost to change, save about £50 a month and move from tesla loan (7 years!) to a 4 year PCP. We’ll be building up savings alongside to pay off the lump at the end if needed but it gives us a safety net if they keep messing about with prices etc.

It would be a downgrade in range though, but it seems a much more usable range than the original SR+. Assume fine for long trips just maybe you can’t skip that SC stop where you might in a LR.

thoughts?

Go for it, if the AWD is not highly valuable to you and you are currently enjoying your M3LR in "Chill" mode. With zero out of pocket trade costs, savings over the long haul, new MYRWD with LFP battery (with probably a better real-world usable range) sounds like a great deal in my opinion. In four years, you will hopefully be driving a new and more efficient EV with a lot longer range!

 

[yessuz]

anyone done it? Toying with it going from a 3LR to a YRWD. Zero cost to change, save about £50 a month and move from tesla loan (7 years!) to a 4 year PCP. We’ll be building up savings alongside to pay off the lump at the end if needed but it gives us a safety net if they keep messing about with prices etc.

It would be a downgrade in range though, but it seems a much more usable range than the original SR+. Assume fine for long trips just maybe you can’t skip that SC stop where you might in a LR.

thoughts?

Strange approach.
PCP after 4 years will still be a balloon... loan after 7 years = car still has the value which will be allways more than the loan balance.

I think after 4 years you will be better wiith loan than PCP...

 

[Mrklaw]

Strange approach.
PCP after 4 years will still be a balloon... loan after 7 years = car still has the value which will be allways more than the loan balance.

I think after 4 years you will be better wiith loan than PCP...

importantly its a safety net - I’ve enjoyed PCPs in the past and this is the first outright loan I’ve taken. I hopefully will be in positive equity throughout but who knows with Tesla’s price volatility (relatively speaking)

PCP 48 x £575 = £27600. optional £18k balloon. £2.5k saved vs loan. £7.5k if I include the remainder of the loan. either halfway to paying the balloon off or a deposit for something new. expecting the market will be more interesting in 4 years and if the charge network is more open/robust likely look outside of tesla too (BMW give me a cheaper i4 please)

loan 48 x 625 = £30000 with 8 months further for full ownership 8x625=£5k. So £35k to pay and the car is mine

 

[yessuz]

yeah I shouldn’t try and justify - the £50 a month is a bonus. The move from Loan to PCP is attractive though - 4 year PCP with option to walk away or 5 years left of loan with no safety net - with currently Tesla turbulence who knows. I’d probably be fine, prices will bottom out and I doubt I’d ‘be in negative equity though.

we’d be saving up separately so plan to have money for the balloon if needed -not expecting the £50 to cover it, just adds to the pot.

fundamentally its a ‘car feel and practicality’ vs lower range. I don’t even need the hatch but do miss the hatch on my BMW 4GC so thats a nice to have. The higher seats are my main draw - wife has back issues at the moment and I creak sometimes getting out

as mentioned, no way I see it to be valued at 0 after 7 years of ownership (when you loan is fully paid off). it still will be at least 10k (cheapest 7 year old BMW 3 series petrol/plugin on autotrader at the moment)

 

[yessuz]

well yes although the loan has 7 years to run to get until I own the car. I have 5.5 years to go, so the PCP would mature with 18 months still to run of my loan - about £11k vs £18k for the PCP but for a newer car. And more importantly its a safety net - I’ve enjoyed PCPs in the past and this is the first outright loan I’ve taken. I hopefully will be in positive equity throughout but who knows with Tesla’s price volatility (relatively speaking)

same for me. but at the end I will have that equity which I will be able to trade it and the value will be still better than the difference between PCP balance and car value...

 

[DayTrippin]

I'd keep the 3 unless you need more room. The Y isn't near as fun to drive, even with the family in the car. The RWD feels like a slug compared to the MY LR. The driving dynamics of the Y aren't near as fun as the 3. I never found my Y fun to drive. Even in tight streets, and low speeds, I can find the 3 fun to drive. Most of the speed limits around me are 30 mph and the 3 makes me feel like I'd driving a go-kart. The Y felt like a pondering beast by comparison.

Definitely take the test drive and see what you think. I give the Y a year and couldn't take it any more. By comparison. you couldn't prise the 3 from my hand by comparison. I still can fit car seats in the back. Not having a hatchback is a plus and minus but I like having the back closed from a security and noise perspective.

 

[kpanda17]

I have both and agree
Y is for people transport and hauling things
3 is for sports car fun and people transport
CT might end up being the combo, off road fun, people transport and hauling things
M2 might end up being the smaller 3

 

[Mrklaw]

which ones good for people that now make noises getting out of low cars?

I’ll see if I can get the test drive long enough to go to some familar roads though. I’d miss the direct go-kart feel if the Y is a lot less responsive.

 

[WannabeOwner]

which ones good for people that now make noises getting out of low cars?

My elderly Father in law found it very difficult to get out of the MS, the M3 was better, but hes fine now that we have the MY

 

[yessuz]

My elderly Father in law found it very difficult to get out of the MS, the M3 was better, but hes fine now that we have the MY

even using easy access function?