Model Y LR approximate range 80% of battery

[spdpsba]

Can I get some numbers for the above question please?. It doesn’t have to be exact - but whetever your car indicated while on 80%. Might help what you normally get during Summer and Winter. I am thinking of buying a Model Y RWD but if the mileage is equivalent to the LR on 80%, I’ll go ahead and buy the RWD.

My long drives are restricted to summer months to Europe and I am happy with the SR+ and the charging available in Europe. I think the new Highland M3 and the Juniper Model Y will be better than any current ones when it comes to mileage. And it doesn’t matter stalks or no stalks and USS or no USS. But I can’ t wait for another 18 months for Juniper model Y. Tesla is offering cash add on of £3,000 with the PCP and that reduces the interest rate to around 2.9 from the current 3.9. And the numbers are slightly higher than what I paid for lease last time but this is a PCP and I have to take the offer by the end of Dec. I understand they will announce something else after Dec. But that is for another day. Do not want to add a big battery and the extra money that it costs.

So, if the 80% LR and 100% RWD both are similar in terms of mileage (not much worried about all wheel drive or 0-60secs) then I would go ahead with the RWD. I will lose on the first charge advantage of 100% with LR when I do long drives (but I think realistically that is advantage only for Cornwall trips) and the speed of charging (not very relevant for me as my 9 year old takes ages to get out of services).

 

[Js1977]

Mine is showing 252 at 79%

 

[Js1977]

The RWD would do just fine for europe but just bare in mind that even if the RWD at 100 is the same as the LR at 80%, then both at 80% is what counts if charging at superchargers etc.

 

[Lord Farquad]

When new 80% was 261
After 1 year and 12k it’s now 259
Average wh/mile 241

 

[spdpsba]

Tesla is offering cash add on of £3,000 with the PCP and that reduces the interest rate to around 2.9 from the current 3.9. And the numbers are slightly higher than what I paid for lease last time but this is a PCP and I have to take the offer by the end of Dec

Btw, people who are financially savvy thoughts around this deal? I am as bad as my DIY skills unfortunately :-(

 

[WllXM]

253 for mine.

But I'm running at 55% efficiency on mostly city driving this month, so that's probably equivalent to 140 real world range, maybe 190 motorway driving

 

[WllXM]

Btw, people who are financially savvy thoughts around this deal? I am as bad as my DIY skills unfortunately :-(

Well, it's better than the terms I had a year ago..
And money isn't free anymore.
Closer to the Juniper update release you may see again some limited 0% financing deals like they did on the Model 3, to offload inventory but 2.9% is acceptable for a car lease imho. Especially in the form of a £3000 contribution upfront, which I believe maybe a first for Tesla, following the competition usual practices....

 

[g_man28]

78% = 245 miles on GOM.

But in this weather and temp I'm getting closer to 200 miles.

1yr old and done 17K miles.

 

[Zilla91]

79% = 256 miles, on the bigger wheels

 

[pdk42]

The displayed miles is not a GOM - it’s the theoretical range based on the rated EPA range factored down by current battery capacity as measured by the BMS. In other words, it’ll show original EPA miles * % charge * battery health as % of original.

 

[MrBadger]

The displayed miles is not a GOM - it’s the theoretical range based on the rated EPA range factored down by current battery capacity as measured by the BMS. In other words, it’ll show original EPA miles * % charge * battery health as % of original.

First bit correct but equation misleading.

The ‘battery health as % of original’ is actually CAC (calculated amphour capacity) which is your ‘current battery capacity as measured by the BMS’, in other words, a guess by the BMS as to that the energy capacity of the battery which is based on a set of assumptions some of which are extremely hard to measure with any degree of accuracy in a lithium battery by virtue that it’s voltage curve is very flat over a large SoC state of charge range - I have heard 10% fluctuations are deemed to be good estimations. So thec CAC can vary quite significantly between each BMS recalibration which can occur quite frequently. Nothing to do with ‘% battery health of original’ - it can go up and down quite significantly and Tesla can even reset the CAC to allow the BMS to recalibrate with a fresh set of assumptions. Various posts also suggest how to achieve similar by letting the car find its own set of values over a wide SoC range which gives better BMS calibration results than when keeping battery SoC within a small range. Part of the reason why Tesla suggest charging some batteries to 100% is said to be to allow BMS to get a more accurate picture of capacity.

But as for intention the post, nothing to do with driving style like some treat a GOM as having.

original EPA miles * % charge * CAC as guessed by BMS

 

[pdk42]

First bit correct but equation misleading.

The ‘battery health as % of original’ is actually CAC (calculated amphour capacity) which is your ‘current battery capacity as measured by the BMS’, in other words, a guess by the BMS as to that the energy capacity of the battery which is based on a set of assumptions some of which are extremely hard to measure with any degree of accuracy in a lithium battery by virtue that it’s voltage curve is very flat over a large SoC state of charge range - I have heard 10% fluctuations are deemed to be good estimations. So thec CAC can vary quite significantly between each BMS recalibration which can occur quite frequently. Nothing to do with ‘% battery health of original’ - it can go up and down quite significantly and Tesla can even reset the CAC to allow the BMS to recalibrate with a fresh set of assumptions. Various posts also suggest how to achieve similar by letting the car find its own set of values over a wide SoC range which gives better BMS calibration results than when keeping battery SoC within a small range. Part of the reason why Tesla suggest charging some batteries to 100% is said to be to allow BMS to get a more accurate picture of capacity.

But as for intention the post, nothing to do with driving style like some treat a GOM as having.

original EPA miles * % charge * CAC as guessed by BMS

Yes, agreed. Thanks for the extra info. I think it’s also possible that Tesla use some form of Colomb counting to help with assessing the CAC - a “count them in and count them out” approach.

 

[TCHK]

Mine 79% 245mi 22months MYLR @24692miles

 

[lusitano]

I have the RWD, did my first long trip to South of France, no range anxiety, I had the family with me so we actually stopped before we needed or we found ourselves over staying on the stops with toilet breaks etc...so I'm happy I saved the 9k difference at the time.

 

[Gnomeface]

I also decided last spring that MYLR at 80% and MYRWD at 100% had roughly equal range, although at that time I wasn't aware that Tesla superchargers discouraged charging above 80%. I bought the RWD and have kept full charging records; only done 5,000 miles in 9 months, but a wide mix of short & long journeys on all types of road.
I don't use any of the car's range figures or predictions, just my real life data. I get 3.66 miles per kWh but easily the most the useful figure is the 2.1 miles/percent battery charge - allowing me a quick check on remaining range at any time in a journey. This shows a maximum effective range of 210 miles (190 if I keep 10% battery in reserve). I'm not exactly a light-footed driver but I don't drive excessively hard.

 

[spdpsba]

So, if the 80% LR and 100% RWD both are similar in terms of mileage

Mine fully charged today shows 260miles. Hope as mentioned by @MrBadger over a period of time BMS/CAC improves certain bit of range and the assumptions it makes ! And @pdk42 what is yours at 80% as you are one of them who recently bought the Y LR?

 

[Forty_Two]

From expereince, I can tell you that whatever it says you have in the batteries at the start of the journey, you will get a MAX of 90% of that in miles on the tyres as the other 10% will go on other stuff in the car

 

[spdpsba]

batteries at the start of the journey, you will get a MAX of 90% of that in miles on the tyres as the other 10% will go on other

I understand that. But that’s not what I was looking for when I asked this question. I was looking for the theoretical (EPA not WLTP) miles when a Y RWD is charged to 100% vs Y LR at 80% to calculate the limitations of RWD as I didn’t want to invest another £8000 on a LR. As mentioned above I’ve acknowledged the first charge advantage of LR in a long trip but subsequently that can be charged only around 80% if you want to keep the battery in good condition I was working out a favourable rationale. If money isn’t a big issue I will always choose a LR over a RWD.

Anyhow I’ve already got the RWD so that debate isn’t very useful for the next 4years.

 

[qwickshot]

There are no issues with charging the LR up to 100% if you need it. Charging it up to 100% isn’t going to suddenly age the battery assuming you use it quickly after.

Charging it up to 100% and then parking it for 3 weeks then yes you probably don’t want to do that but you don’t want to do that in the ST car either for the same reason.

The LR and SR have very similar characteristics when it comes to rapid charging, the first 50% is quick and then it quickly slows, the last 10% might as well not exist.

I don’t get ‘the LR and the RWD have the same range’ argument. In the LR you can always shift the charge slider to the right when you need it at any time.

That said the RWD has more range than the vast majority of people need 98% of the time and it’s a lot cheaper so happy days.

Having owed an SR 3 for 2 years and driven all over the country and into Europe, the smaller battery size has never been a limiting factor. I only went with an LR Y because I need the extra range to tow, that’s where the SR suffers.

 

[spdpsba]

charging the LR up to 100% if you need it.

I think the accepted wisdom on this forum is for LR - first charge 100% and drive off from home then go upto 80-85% while on your trip. The reasons are most of the SCs now a days limit both cars to 80% because of busy charging stations (of course you can override); some are worried about battery SCed to 100% 5-6 times in a long journey (again the charging is going to be too slow and not very good for battery). Though these limitations exist for RWD given that 80% of RWD may sometime clock only up to 170miles is an inherent limitation that can be avoided by charging it up to 100% on long journeys. This is all weighing up the benefits and losses and how it works for you.

At the end of the day £8000 is a big investment for me at this point when I can manage with few extra stops on my trips to Europe.