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Understanding 85kWh battery limits
- Thread starter kirkusss
- Start date
blodg1
Member
That is likely one of the cabin air filter housing bolts. Very common to lose these when removing the housing to get to the battery or main fuses, depending on the model year.
Not worried about the bolt. Now waiting for someone to answer to my service request.
Battery warranty ends in exactly 2 weeks and not hoping for much, probably they will drop the pack and replace the cover and I will pay for it… (wonder if they are actually doing that in local SCs).
Probably will drop a message to Transport Canada as well for statistics.
Battery warranty ends in exactly 2 weeks and not hoping for much, probably they will drop the pack and replace the cover and I will pay for it… (wonder if they are actually doing that in local SCs).
Probably will drop a message to Transport Canada as well for statistics.
I think I jinxed myself with my earlier reply. My car dropped the DI w166 _hvilOutOfBounds over the weekend. It's at the SC now and they gave me a loaner. Car still charges fine but I am seeing reduced power from my eyeballs. I don't see the power limit lines but even on the warm days we've had this winter I am not seeing the gauge go as high as it used to.
That is a code only visible on Service menu, right? I am surprised they are looking into it as it disappears pretty fast. My car still have the power limitation when pushed harder, but nothing present at normal driving. Not sure what is triggering it, but seems the pack cannot handle high current for more than 5 seconds and then it drops the Amps and of course power.
Good to know. I will see how much I can push them on my side to get to the bottom of it. My guess is the motor inverter is wearing out or something and cannot sustain the output.
At least they gave me severely degraded 100D as a loaner. Only 272 rated miles at 100% compared to my cars 256, lol. Tried out navigate on autopilot for the first time. Kinda janky if you ask me.
At least they gave me severely degraded 100D as a loaner. Only 272 rated miles at 100% compared to my cars 256, lol. Tried out navigate on autopilot for the first time. Kinda janky if you ask me.
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If he High voltage Interlink is triggered, there is likely power bleeding out somewhere. The function of the HVIL is to trigger when a fault is detected in the DC circuits. At a certain point, it will power down the car.Opened a service request with my local SC. They pulled the logs and no surprise, everything is ok on their side on the battery. It seems anything before a failure is ok
Will ask them how come the DI w166 _hvilOutOfBounds did not popped-up in their assessment (still active in service menu)
I suspect that the constant running of the coolant in the legacy Teslas are causing coolant leaks in electrical parts. The system was likely never designed to run constantly, and even though it’s a low pressure system; a weak link gives out. For example, I had a rear motor failure after coolant leaked into it. If the HVIL is being triggered, technicians have to get into the car and check circuits with a multimeter. wk057 posted a discussion outside of tmc about how Tesla went about evaluating legacy packs for bad MOSFETs and water intrusion. Internally these were called “X” and ”Z” I think. Long story short, the 85 packs have intrinsic problems that Tesla didn’t want to fork cash out to fix. Because they would have to open packs and physically repair them. But instead they wholesale limited everything with suspected problems and limited supercharging. That being said, this would cause constant stress on the chemistry of the battery. Both when the vehicle is being used and when not. They only need to get the battery and motor past 8 years and they get out Scott free. The good news is that you don’t need to buy a new car. It’s a pain in the ass, but swapping the battery out with a 100kWh pack fixes everything. Then open up your old pack and sell the modules to recuperate the cost of buying the used one.
That is a good plan, but 100kWh packs are not easy to find.
I am curious what the outcome for my battery drop will be tomorrow. I am wondering if the drop in current is linked to some sort of resistance change due to early moisture.
BTW, I get an isolation resistance of 1680kOhm in Service menu with Contactors closed. I was under the impression it should be over 2000, am I wrong?
I am curious what the outcome for my battery drop will be tomorrow. I am wondering if the drop in current is linked to some sort of resistance change due to early moisture.
BTW, I get an isolation resistance of 1680kOhm in Service menu with Contactors closed. I was under the impression it should be over 2000, am I wrong?
Found this document for HV battery diagnostic: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10052460-6095.pdf
The only test I can perform is the one with closed contactors and without running the heater I get 1680 kOhm and 1880 after running it. The doc is mentioning that it should always be above 2000 kOhm
The only test I can perform is the one with closed contactors and without running the heater I get 1680 kOhm and 1880 after running it. The doc is mentioning that it should always be above 2000 kOhm
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aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
HVIL fault is a serious safety issue. Possible LDU coolant leak. If so, I have read removing the speed sensor will show if there is evidence of this, plus if the coolant reservoir is low. Maybe the motor or other part in the HVIL loop is faulty.
All Tesla SB, TSB, should be available in the on line service manual.
Print out the applicable doc and make the SvC follow the published procedure.
True story, I had Santa Barbara service say I had a bad HV pack, caused by my CAN bus reader. I printed out the SB you linked to, and it took weeks before the found the problem, bad contactors in the pack.
Don't back down. They owe you some level of repair if their own documentation says there is a HVIL fault.
For me the hvil was intermittent when I was pushing the car to reproduce the power limit.
At that time I only got manual references to basically tell me I am out of my mind and everything is fine.
When I opened this request with rust on the cover I got no manual answer but the 0$ estimate to remove and check the battery.
Also mentioned to check the isolation resistance.
Will reference the document tomorrow and specify the values I see with closed contactors.
At that time I only got manual references to basically tell me I am out of my mind and everything is fine.
When I opened this request with rust on the cover I got no manual answer but the 0$ estimate to remove and check the battery.
Also mentioned to check the isolation resistance.
Will reference the document tomorrow and specify the values I see with closed contactors.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Are you sure there is no coolant leak at the LDU? Something they should check first.
If they are going to pull the pack, try to make sure they don't damage anything. In my case they ripped off all the vent seals and left aeroshields and even rear torque plate partly unsecured. Took a month and two mobile visits to make it right. Had a major concern with the rapid mate connector, had to use a boroscope to make sure it was sealed.
Print out all applicable SB and leave them in the car. Take a pic of the docs in the car. In my case they never looked at them, but when they said they did not exist, the pic came in handy. Then they got serious and finally fixed the contactor problem.
I am a research/design/mfg/test engineer by training and had a lot of data from SMT, Teslafi, and voltage measurements and it was incredibly difficult to get the techs to do the right thing. I hope you have better luck.
HVIL has nothing to do with isolation issues.
Specifically, DI_w166 isn't generally a problem. It's an informational note, only from the small drive units IIRC, that HVIL is not reading within spec, but it almost always happens during high load events with the small DUs since it causes some error in this measurement. It latches for a bit, but overall isn't an issue. Unless it's always active, in which case the BMS's HVIL generation circuit or some other HVIL issue could be having issues.
If the car drives and shows no normal user facing errors, though, probably fine.
Isolation resistance is ideally > 2MOhm, but 1600-1700 isn't necessarily bad. I don't believe it's considered a fault until < 1Mohm, and it does vary from car to car.
Specifically, DI_w166 isn't generally a problem. It's an informational note, only from the small drive units IIRC, that HVIL is not reading within spec, but it almost always happens during high load events with the small DUs since it causes some error in this measurement. It latches for a bit, but overall isn't an issue. Unless it's always active, in which case the BMS's HVIL generation circuit or some other HVIL issue could be having issues.
If the car drives and shows no normal user facing errors, though, probably fine.
Isolation resistance is ideally > 2MOhm, but 1600-1700 isn't necessarily bad. I don't believe it's considered a fault until < 1Mohm, and it does vary from car to car.
aerodyne
2 of 3 EV's - Defect Free!
Def expect the worst. Take lots of pics under the car when you drop it off.
Mine was not that old in 2020, and bad workmanship like the missing and cross threaded fasteners were numerous.
They found water intrusion in the hv fuse box for mine. Replaced the box. Maybe that fixes it. I was hoping for one of them new 280 mile range batteries with a couple months left on the warranty but oh well.
I guess if the alert comes back there is probably water in the battery if they found it in the hv fuse box.
I guess if the alert comes back there is probably water in the battery if they found it in the hv fuse box.
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