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Universal Mobile Connector Tesla NEMA 10-30 Adaptor Wiring

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Hi, I didn't seem to find an answer to the specific question, so posting here.
I rent, and have a NEMA 10-30R wall plug that is used for a dryer.
Tesla sells a 10-30 adaptor for the UMC (I'll be buying the latest version of UMC). My understanding, however, is that Tesla does not use the Neutral wire, but does require a Ground wire.
1. Does the Tesla adaptor route the plug's Neutral wire to the internal Ground in the UMC? My understanding is that it's a no-no to short Neutral to ground at the device level.

2. I was thinking of getting a splitter so that I wouldn't be plugging in and out of the wall plug often and could keep the dryer plugged in (though I would never run the two at the same time). I saw a comment on how a splitter might interfere with the UMC temperature sensor. How does a splitter cause that, and would it fix the issue if I unplugged the dryer from the splitter?

Thanks very much for your feedback.
 
NEMA 10-30 has been deprecated. It doesn't have a ground conductor and shouldn't be used in new installations. You're kind of limited in what you can do as a renter - my recommendation would be to replace the receptacle with a NEMA 14-30, which has two hots, a neutral and a ground.

Yes - the Tesla adapter grounds through the neutral conductor on a NEMA 10-30.

If you're interested in a splitter, my recommendation would be for an automated product like a Dryer Buddy with the automatic detection that prevents both loads from running simultaneously.
 
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As to your question about the temperature sensor... all Tesla NEMA adapters for the UMC have a built-in temperature sensor at the (wall) plug end. This is used to monitor the temperature at the wall outlet for excessive heat, usually an indication of a Serious Problem. Having a splitter, or even using an extension cord, mitigates this check.
 
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Thanks for the quick responses!
Unfortunately, I rent, so I can't alter any receptacles or wiring.
So if the adaptor routes Neutral to Ground, wouldn't that cause a problem? I thought you are never supposed to connect these two.

If the temperature sensor on the end of the adaptor plug measures the temperature of the receptacle, would that mean you will lose accurate temperature sensing if any extension cord is used? Will the UMC work OK without accurate temperature sensing if I rely on the circuit breaker and always make sure the charging current is set to 24A?
 
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NEMA 10-30 has been deprecated. It doesn't have a ground conductor and shouldn't be used in new installations. You're kind of limited in what you can do as a renter - my recommendation would be to replace the receptacle with a NEMA 14-30, which has two hots, a neutral and a ground.

Yes - the Tesla adapter grounds through the neutral conductor on a NEMA 10-30.

If you're interested in a splitter, my recommendation would be for an automated product like a Dryer Buddy with the automatic detection that prevents both loads from running simultaneously.
I have replaced several 10-30's with 14-30's in some rental houses I own. But only do this if the circuit from your panel contains 4 wires:

Hot-Hot-Neutral-Ground. Usually Red-Black-White-Bare Copper (or green)

Most of them had the above mentioned four wires, but one of the 10-30's I have attempted to upgrade only had 3 wires, it was a 10-2 w/ground Romex cable. The ground wire was being used for the neutral on that installation. In that case, I left the 10-30.

Most landlords would not like a tenant working on the electrical system (including me), and most landlords would not perceive the 10-30 to be a problem. I upgraded the dryer outlets as part of larger major renovations. None of my tenants have an EV but I would be happy to help a tenant with his EV but obviously as a Tessie owner I am different than most landlords.

On a dryer, the 10-30 uses the neutral also for the ground. There is a ground wire in most dryers that is connected to the neutral when using the 10-30, and is connected to the ground wire when using the 14-30.

For a dryer, the 10-30 is safe *until* something goes wrong with the neutral connection back to the electrical panel. Then, the frame of the dryer will be energized to 120 volts with reference to ground. This has rarely happened, but it *has* happened, thus in the 1990's the NEC was updated to require the safer 4 wire connection using the 14-30. Older ranges also had the same situation using 3 wires with the neutral as the ground, usually with NEMA 10-50 amp receptacles. If the neutral came loose, the frame of the range would become electrified at 120 volts to ground. Dryers and ranges need the neutral because whilst the heating elements use 240 volts some of the components in these devices use 120 volts.

Since Tessies are strictly 240 volt devices, they do not need a neutral, and using the neutral as a ground is safer than using the neutral as both a neutral and a ground for a dryer. Should the neutral become loose or disconnected, the frame of the car will not become energized.

At the main electrical service panel, the neutral and ground are bonded together, so to the Tessie it looks no different if it is using the neutral as the ground or the ground as the ground. Also note that the Tessie is not putting a ground connection on to the neutral as the OP was questioning.

If you know you, or a family member, will never use the dryer at the same time the car is charging, a simple splitter is OK. Note that as discussed above, the 10-30 or 14-30 heat sensor built into the EVSE adapter cord will not be at the outlet in the wall, but will be where it plugs into the splitter. So you should check on it from time to time for overheating.

If the dryer outlet is not actually in the garage, you will need to somehow get the cable from the outlet into the garage. Doors from the garage to the house are generally fire rated, and should not be left cracked open.

I consider using a dryer outlet something to do when visiting friends or family, or to temporarily use until a more permanent circuit can be installed.

Edit: Just saw OP's latest response:

To reiterate, the Tessie is not placing a ground onto the neutral. It is using the neutral as the ground. It is perfectly safe, and Tesla would not sell the 10-30 if is was unsafe.

The cord's sensor will still be in the circuit, and will protect the plug, but it will be protected into whatever place in which it is inserted. If you plug it into the 10-30, it will sense the heat at that point, telling the Tesla Mobile Connector if that connection becomes too hot. If it is plugged into an extension cord, or a one-in / two-out splitter, it will sense the heat at that point. Should the 10-30 where the extension cord or splitter is plugged in to get hot, it will not sense that problem and if it gets too hot the receptacle or plug may melt.
Screen Shot 2024-01-28 at 3.32.56 PM.png
 
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So if the adaptor routes Neutral to Ground, wouldn't that cause a problem? I thought you are never supposed to connect these two.
Well, no. You're thinking of this as if it's two houses or something with a real neutral network on one side and real ground network on the other, and you're (*gasp*) SHORTING them together! It's not really like that. The car is just the car. It wants something that is kind of like a ground. The adapter does tie to that neutral slot in the receptacle and just uses it as if it is a ground. The charging cable just sees that it's at 0V and says, "Yep, good enough." So it's not really doing anything bad or harmful or dangerous.
 
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Tesla gets away with repurposing the neutral because neutral is connected to ground at the main panel, and a 10-30 should be the only receptacle on the circuit, so neutral and ground are the same thing.

However, there is one common scenario that can cause problems. If the 10-30 is wired from a subpanel, then all the other circuits in the subpanel are also connected to the neutral wire there, and since the neutral isn't grounded until you reach the main panel, the neutral at the 10-30 could be carrying a return voltage from the other circuits.

This can cause the EVSE to not work, fry components in the EVSE, or it could even be a shock hazard at the NACS or J1772 plug if you were to touch the ground pin.

In that scenario, you would need to change it to a 14-30, which means running an extra ground wire if it isn't already there, or change it to a 6-30, truly repurposing the neutral as a ground, which would then be grounded at the subpanel. The downside of the 6-30 is that Tesla doesn't sell that adapter, so you'd have to go third-party for it.

I know all this because I blew up my LEAF EVSE this way. I'd had it converted for 240v operation, and wanted to test it, so I plugged it into my dryer outlet. It went up in smoke as soon as i plugged the other end into the LEAF. It took a lot of back and forth with the guy who did the conversion before we figured this out. He had assumed I'd made the 10-30 adapter wrong, and I had to send it to him before he was convinced that wasn't the problem. He was very kind and fixed it up for me for free.
 
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So the dryer outlet box has a ground wire that is connected to the receptacle's plate. After turning off the breakers for washer and dryer, continuity tester shows continuity between dryer ground and neutral, and also between dryer ground and washer (110v) neutral and ground.

There's only one panel I have found in the unit, which is a townhome in a 6 condo building. I don't know if this is considered a subpanel. The dryer outlet is about 6 feet from the panel. The dryer and water heater are the only 220v appliances. They have their own individual breakers and are on the same panel row (marked w/ red tape). The other breakers are for washer, dishwasher, range, heater, AC, and 'lights'.
 

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So the dryer outlet box has a ground wire that is connected to the receptacle's plate. After turning off the breakers for washer and dryer, continuity tester shows continuity between dryer ground and neutral, and also between dryer ground and washer (110v) neutral and ground.

There's only one panel I have found in the unit, which is a townhome in a 6 condo building. I don't know if this is considered a subpanel. The dryer outlet is about 6 feet from the panel. The dryer and water heater are the only 220v appliances. They have their own individual breakers and are on the same panel row (marked w/ red tape). The other breakers are for washer, dishwasher, range, heater, AC, and 'lights'.
Even though you are in a rental, you could probably change to a NEMA 14-30 and no one would notice or care. That is if you feel comfortable doing that. You will have to change the dryer cord too. If you do be sure to change the ground connection in the dryer from the neutral to the ground wire.

I count four 240 volt circuits; the air conditioning is a 240 volt breaker and the lower left hand breaker is a 240 volt circuit, for the range you mentioned.
 
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Tesla gets away with repurposing the neutral because neutral is connected to ground at the main panel, and a 10-30 should be the only receptacle on the circuit, so neutral and ground are the same thing.

However, there is one common scenario that can cause problems. If the 10-30 is wired from a subpanel, then all the other circuits in the subpanel are also connected to the neutral wire there, and since the neutral isn't grounded until you reach the main panel, the neutral at the 10-30 could be carrying a return voltage from the other circuits.

This can cause the EVSE to not work, fry components in the EVSE, or it could even be a shock hazard at the NACS or J1772 plug if you were to touch the ground pin.

In that scenario, you would need to change it to a 14-30, which means running an extra ground wire if it isn't already there, or change it to a 6-30, truly repurposing the neutral as a ground, which would then be grounded at the subpanel. The downside of the 6-30 is that Tesla doesn't sell that adapter, so you'd have to go third-party for it.

I know all this because I blew up my LEAF EVSE this way. I'd had it converted for 240v operation, and wanted to test it, so I plugged it into my dryer outlet. It went up in smoke as soon as i plugged the other end into the LEAF. It took a lot of back and forth with the guy who did the conversion before we figured this out. He had assumed I'd made the 10-30 adapter wrong, and I had to send it to him before he was convinced that wasn't the problem. He was very kind and fixed it up for me for free.
Interesting scenario, but Tesla's info sheet and manual doesn't mention that as something to look out for on the 10-30, so it's possible Tesla already mitigated this situation:



I think the major difference with Tesla's solution is that the 10-30 adapter reports itself to the Mobile Connector as such via a chip on the adapter, so Tesla can treat it as a different case (connected to neutral instead of ground), whereas your conversion may not have made that distinction.
 
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Thanks for the quick responses!
Unfortunately, I rent, so I can't alter any receptacles or wiring.
So if the adaptor routes Neutral to Ground, wouldn't that cause a problem? I thought you are never supposed to connect these two.

If the temperature sensor on the end of the adaptor plug measures the temperature of the receptacle, would that mean you will lose accurate temperature sensing if any extension cord is used? Will the UMC work OK without accurate temperature sensing if I rely on the circuit breaker and always make sure the charging current is set to 24A?
I regularly charge from a 10-30 adaptor. I use a 10-30 to 14-50 dogbone. I make sure to set the maximum charging rate to 24 amps.

I also regularly use an extension cord. The worrywarts will now have a hissy fit.

Pay attention to your temperatures. Touch all the connections, if after a few hours is too hot to hold comfortably you have a problem. Look for burn mark.
 
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