I found a used Performance with 3,500 miles on it and VIN is 70k. Should I buy it or go new? I think it is an early 2018 build.
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Used Performance for $55k or New LR AWD for $54,400?
- Thread starter kirbo20
- Start date
That would be at least mid or later 2018. Of course VINs aren't necessarily manufactured in exact order, but my 63,XXX VIN was manufactured in August 2018.
Is it being sold by Tesla or someone else? Any autopilot or full self driving on it?
You will NEVER regret performance model if price is no longer a factor.
Is it being sold by Tesla or someone else? Any autopilot or full self driving on it?
You will NEVER regret performance model if price is no longer a factor.
I don't regret it, but if I could delete Performance and get $5k back, I might take it.
Only reason I wouldn't is resale value. Mine is a Stealth so all I paid for it was $5k.
The 20" Wheels are a PITA.
OP, should also verify if it is a P or P+.
What is so bad about the wheels other than having to change the tires in the winter or is there more to it?
It is currently configured with EAP according to the rep I am working with. She is checking if it stays of just AP which is what the site says.
It is currently configured with EAP according to the rep I am working with. She is checking if it stays of just AP which is what the site says.
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joebruin77
Active Member
I would ask if it is possible to see the service and warranty repair history of the used Performance. I am always a little suspicious of extremely low mileage used cars.
Have you driven a Performance? You can go to your local Tesla store and schedule a test drive. I was originally planning on buying a LR AWD, but when I test drove the Performance, my Tesla smile was too big to be ignored and I was addicted...I mean sold . I got the Performance and am so happy I did.
Have you driven a Performance? You can go to your local Tesla store and schedule a test drive. I was originally planning on buying a LR AWD, but when I test drove the Performance, my Tesla smile was too big to be ignored and I was addicted...I mean sold . I got the Performance and am so happy I did.
When I bought my first one back in November I test drove a performance but I didn't want to drop that much cash at the time. I want performance but new is new.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Yeah- that's a $3750 question (assuming you can take delivery of it by June 30)
The 20s BTW are bad because:
Worse range than the 18s the P3D- got
Much more prone to being damaged by potholes
Replacement tires more expensive
The EAP question is pretty important too- since it includes all the existing features of FSD right now for free if so (versus just the very basic features of the new AP).... though you won't get HW3 or any future features beyond enhanced summon unless you pay the extra for FSD either way.
It is being sold as used so I assume it has been titled. No Tax credit unfortunately.
Leafdriver333
Somewhat Active Member
Only 3500 miles... Mine has over 3000 miles and it is 2.5 months old.
What if the car was in the shop for months?
What if the car was in the shop for months?
You could probably fly out and drive back for less than $300.
I could drive there in a few hours. Trying to keep my wife happy by not dragging her there
I think I am going to go with the new LR AWD. If I miss the tax credit I will reconsider buying used. It's tough because I really want the performance even though the LR AWD is enough for me.
Interesting.. If I could pay $5k and make my AWD into a Stealth (P3D-), I might do it.
20" OEM Wheels are known to bend easily. If you do want to run say more efficient Aero's with snows for winter, you can't.
There are 3rd party 18", 19" rims you can use, including stronger 20".
Still not sure if current OEM 19" will now fit or not, they initially did not, but they might now.
20" OEM Tires are, appropriately, high performance summer tires. Which means great traction, but will eat significant watts and have a short life span. For many folks, it's well worth it for that grip. For many others it's not. It's tires that are the bulk in efficiency loss.
If you stick with 20" rims, aftermarket or OEM, 20" tire selection is more limited and more expensive.
Like others have said you can only decide but there are drawbacks to those wheels, others would say they are an advantage.
Partly depends on how bad your roads are for "summer season" wheels. But folks even a person or two from Southern California has posted with bent 20" rims. Search the forum.
I'm sure there are plenty of folks that have not bent 20" OEM rims as well. It's something to be aware of.
It's cool knowing it's there. I use it occasionally, usually to show off to a friend or something, but normal driving, I never use that much power. In fact I wish there was power level (limit) equal to RWD or AWD. Because it is, so insanely powerful, I leave it in chill. If I had RWD or AWD I probably wouldn't leave in chill. I consider it a "safety" to leave it chill. It normally does not bother me a bit. But occasionally I wouldn't mind a little more power, but I don't want full performance always "available" at my toe tip.
