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Using Tray Cable for Wall Connector Installation -- Too Good to Be True?

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Hi all,

I just learned of "tray cable." From my understanding, it appears to be an "anything" cable -- you can run it indoors, outdoors, in open air, bury it directly in the ground, run it in conduit, etc. For 6 gauge it supports 75 amps for dry locations and 65 amps for wet locations. This means it more than supports the wall connector.

For my installation, I have to run wire from the panel directly into the crawl space under the house. It will travel about 40 feet under the house to the front yard. Then the wire will exit into a front yard planter, go under a walkway via digging, go under the lawn, then emerge into a hollow brick light post where my wall connector will be mounted. This outdoor run will be another 40 feet. So this is 80 feet total: half in the crawlspace, half outdoors. For 80 feet the tray table would cost about $315 with taxes and shipping.

With tray cable, it sounds like I can just do the following? Run it through the crawlspace by directly affixing it to the floor joists, exit into the front yard planter, run it in that planter above ground (conduit and burying are optional here), then bury it for the rest of the run until it emerges under the brick post and connects directly to the wall charger? This seems too good to be true: no conduit, digging is only required for aesthetic purposes, and the wire supports max amperage. Of course I would love to be corrected and would definitely appreciate an informed opinion!

Before I discovered tray cable, my original plan was this: at Home Depot I purchased a 50 foot role of 6/2 Romex for the crawlspace ($154) and a 50 foot role of 6/3 UF-B to bury outdoors ($179). This was a total of $333 + tax, which costs more than the tray cable and only supports 55 amps. This setup would also require conduit where the UF-B cable goes into and out of the ground, which would cost more and require more labor. (And THHN in conduit would have been even more troublesome and expensive to install.)

And yes, my electrician is doing all of this, but I want to know my options before we come up with a plan. :)
 
The store link above has all the details:

6 AWG 3 Conductor Tray Cable without Ground - ICEA Method 4 Color Code (Black & Numbered)
PVC/Nylon/PVC, Control, Unshielded, 600V, UL Type TC-ER

Cut to length - sold by the foot. Enter the desired footage in the QTY box.

Minimum 16' to maximum 2500'. Please call for longer put ups.

Color:
Black

Applications:
In free air, raceways or direct burial. In wet or dry locations. Approved for direct burial, Class I, Div. 2 industrial hazardous locations per NEC. Permitted for Exposed Run (ER) use in accordance with NEC.

Also Known As:
raceway cable, underground cable, multi-conductor THHN cable, lighting cable, control cable, signal and communication circuit cable, etc.

Features:
Rated at 90°C dry, 75°C wet. Ripcord applied to all cables with jacket thickness of 60 mils or less. Provides outstanding sunlight, cold bend and cold impact resistance. Offers the smallest cable O.D. available for suitable applications. Provides long service life. Provides good oil and chemical resistance. Meets cold bend test at -25°C. Meets the crush and impact requirements of Type MC cable.

Compliances:
Industry Compliances:
- UL 66 NEC Type TFN conductors
- UL 1277 Type TC-ER for 3 or more conductors, UL File # E57179
- UL 1581
- ICEA S-95-658
Flame Test Compliances:
- UL 1277
- IEEE 383
- IEEE 1202
- CSA FT4
Other Compliances:
- EPA 40 CFR, Part 261 for leachable lead content per TCLP
- OSHA Acceptable
- RoHS Compliant

Conductor:
Fully annealed stranded bare copper to ASTM B3
Class B stranding per ASTM B8

Insulation:
Flame-retardant Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) with clear Polyamide (nylon)
Color-coded per ICEA Method 4

Ground:
Uninsulated bare annealed copper per ASTM B3
Class B stranding per ASTM B8

Jacket:
Lead-free, flame-retardant, sunlight-resistant Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)

Options:
Lead-free, flame-retardant, sunlight-resistant Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)

Specifications*:

Size:
6 AWG
Number of Conductors: 3
Conductor Strand: 7/.0486
Minimum AVG Insulation Thickness: 0.76 mm / 0.030 inches
Minimum AVG Jacket Thickness: 1.52 mm / 0.060 inches
Outside Diameter: 0.675 inches
Net Weight: 0.400 lbs per ft
Allowable Ampacity: 75 Amps
 
Hi all,

I just learned of "tray cable." From my understanding, it appears to be an "anything" cable -- you can run it indoors, outdoors, in open air, bury it directly in the ground, run it in conduit, etc. For 6 gauge it supports 75 amps for dry locations and 65 amps for wet locations. This means it more than supports the wall connector.

For my installation, I have to run wire from the panel directly into the crawl space under the house. It will travel about 40 feet under the house to the front yard. Then the wire will exit into a front yard planter, go under a walkway via digging, go under the lawn, then emerge into a hollow brick light post where my wall connector will be mounted. This outdoor run will be another 40 feet. So this is 80 feet total: half in the crawlspace, half outdoors. For 80 feet the tray table would cost about $315 with taxes and shipping.

With tray cable, it sounds like I can just do the following? Run it through the crawlspace by directly affixing it to the floor joists, exit into the front yard planter, run it in that planter above ground (conduit and burying are optional here), then bury it for the rest of the run until it emerges under the brick post and connects directly to the wall charger? This seems too good to be true: no conduit, digging is only required for aesthetic purposes, and the wire supports max amperage. Of course I would love to be corrected and would definitely appreciate an informed opinion!

Before I discovered tray cable, my original plan was this: at Home Depot I purchased a 50 foot role of 6/2 Romex for the crawlspace ($154) and a 50 foot role of 6/3 UF-B to bury outdoors ($179). This was a total of $333 + tax, which costs more than the tray cable and only supports 55 amps. This setup would also require conduit where the UF-B cable goes into and out of the ground, which would cost more and require more labor. (And THHN in conduit would have been even more troublesome and expensive to install.)

And yes, my electrician is doing all of this, but I want to know my options before we come up with a plan. :)
Prior to placing my order for the HPWC and the M Y , I spent a few months on this site reading various posts related to the charger installation.
I decided to use an electrician recommended by Tesla. He had me take photos of my 200 Amp panel and the approx 150 run to the garage. Up until that point it had never occurred to me to use #2 aluminum 4 conductor cable to a 100 amp sub panel in my garage. That may be a possible solution for you to have an outdoor 100 amp sub panel fed by #2 aluminum thru your crawl space and use #6 copper from the sub panel to your wall charger.
 

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I'm avoiding THHN because it means I have to run conduit through all the planters. There's several tiers of brick I would have to dig under too. The apparent advantage of tray cable is not needing conduit, I don't need to transition to a different wire, it can be directly buried, and it can even run above ground. Apparently.
 
I have not heard that term before. Does it have a UL or NEC designation?
VNTC, I think. I believe the OP may be out of compliance running it above ground through a planter. I think there is a disconnect between what he calls "open air" and what the code calls "aerial with a messenger". The cable cannot the installed where it is subject to physical damage. NEC 336.10 provides guidance for permitted uses. For use as described by the OP, the cable would require ER and JP listings as well, which not all tray cable will have. He still could not lay it in a planter uncovered or unprotected.

I'm sure a proper Sparky will be along shortly to straighten us all out.
 
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You may be right! If it doesn't work out, I'm thinking of doing the following:

1. Run 40 feet of "4-4-4 Aluminum SER Cable w/ 6 AWG ground" from the breaker through the crawlspace by affixing it to the floor joists.
2. Transition to 40 feet of "4-4-4-4 Aluminum URD Direct Burial Cable" outside of the house. Run it in conduit through the difficult parts of the planter that are hard to dig through (because there's several "terraces" of brick I would otherwise have to dig under). Then when it becomes easy, I can exit the URD cable out of the conduit deep into the ground, bury it under the pathway, bury it under the lawn, and then exit through conduit into the brick light post where the wall connector will be mounted.
3. Transition to CU THHN in conduit for the last few feet and run it to the wall connector.

The SER and URD would cost $311 with taxes and shipping. The CU wire is like $1.60 at Home Depot, so maybe another $25 for that. So maybe $30 more than the tray cable idea and involving some conduit and transitioning.

I believe this setup would also support 70 amps minimum.
 
Bullet Mole Horizontal Drilling, Boring, Trenching, and Piercing Tools or something like it may help you get under all your brick without much real digging. I've never used one, but have seen some videos that show it working. Of course, if I were selling a bulletmole I'd be sure to make a nice layer of sand under freshly laid concrete to put my bulletmole through while making some videos!