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Vibration in Yolk at 70+ mph
- Thread starter Kan-O-Z
- Start date
If anyone’s issue is resolved by SC, please let us know.
SC also suggested switching to a steering wheel but I don’t think that’s the real issue and ~$700 I believe after they already upcharged for yoke.
I'm hoping I can get them so swap for free, but I doubt. The left scroll button on my yoke isn't working, and they have to replace it anyway.
I have the same issue with my 22 model S LR. I thought it was the tires and I had them re-balanced that was not the case. Try changing the wheels and tires still have the same vibration. Prior to the dealer and before we even touch trough he let me know that this is an issue that Tesla is working on. I don’t recall this ever being an issue the first couple months I have the car. I think it has to do with software update, they were not able to fix the car. What did you know of the problem. Now what ? It vibrates at 70-80 mph. 50 nothing. 100 nothing. Under 20k on car. This happened with 19 inch & 20 inch wheels. I think it started for everyone around the same time. 2023 (may-July)
It almost feels like active avoidance when you go next to the line and you get the vibration through your steering wheel, but definitely less aggressive.
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Not so sure. Several have swapped tires and done road force balancing which mitigated issue but didn’t have it disappear. Above mentions it’s happening with both 19s and 20s so they likely swapped wheels. Tesla SC noted that engineering is aware and its a “known issue.” What if anything they do about it is the question. Mine began from delivery and continues. I’m still under 5k miles with no resolution on 2023 on 20s.
Anybody get a resolution here? I still have the problem and highway driving is becoming more and more irritating with vibrations.
Not quite - switching to the 19's greatly reduced but it's still noticeable. I noticed the holiday update helped with the 45mph vibrations, but the 55-80mph vibrations are the same.
About to start throwing the parts cannon at it. Will ask to get hubs, shafts, etc. replaced.
Has your service center been open to replacing parts as mentioned above? Mine thus far was only willing to road force balance tires and replace several tires. Mine was terrible upon taking delivery. The tire replacement and road force balance helped but I still have the annoying vibrations at highway speeds.
Eh - not quite. The first visit they suggested this sort of thing is usually tires and that I should go consult a 3rd party tire shop. They gave the bushings/suspension a check and thought things were OK. I figured I'd eliminate wheels as a possible cause (looked fine to me, but one less variable I suppose) so I bought a new set of 19s.
Worth mentioning rear drive unit was completely replaced under warranty around 35k miles because it was missing too much oil from the factory. There was a popup on the screen one day, and I read the service bulletin out of curiosity. There were 3 tiers of how much missing fluid in the gearbox, and the most of which warranting a motor replacement. Car has been identical, so I can say it's not the rear motor!
One interesting tidbit - if I use track mode and set the car to be 100% front wheel drive it'll actually pull to the left on acceleration and then pull to the right on hard braking. This is very slight, and ONLY really noticeable with the front bias. This, plus the fact the steering wheel is what vibrates - makes me think there's something suspension related in the front-end. In a week I'm going to have a trusted tire shop perform an alignment (steering wheel is 2 degrees crooked) and ask them to take their time inspecting things.
At this point I'm underwater enough that I might as well stick with the car - so I'm invested in getting this fixed whether its warranty or my wallet.
You might suggest getting the alignment to N2itive's recommendations (below), which are tighter than Teslas.
You also might want to see if they can add shims to the rear to reduce the camber. This should reduce the inner rear tire wear that most Teslas have.
N2itive suggests aligning at the height you drive the most, which is probably the low setting that is the default at highway speeds. "We recommend to dial out as much of the negative camber as you can while still staying within spec."
You also might want to see if they can add shims to the rear to reduce the camber. This should reduce the inner rear tire wear that most Teslas have.
N2itive suggests aligning at the height you drive the most, which is probably the low setting that is the default at highway speeds. "We recommend to dial out as much of the negative camber as you can while still staying within spec."
| Front Camber: -0.3° to -1.2° |
| Front Caster: 3.7° to 4.7° |
| Front Toe: 0.0° to 0.15° |
| Total Front Toe: 0.0° to 0.30° |
| Steer Ahead: -0.05° to 0.05° |
| Rear Camber: -0.50° to -0.65° |
| Rear Toe: 0.15° to 0.20° |
| Total Rear Toe: 0.30° to 0.40° |
| Thrust Angle: -0.10° to 0.10° |
Hi all -- I see that this thread is a bit old. Has anyone successfully had this issue addressed? I have a 2021 Model S Plaid with the 19" rims. I've had the steering yoke vibration for a while now but only at speeds in the upper 80s to about 90mph. I switched from the summer Pirellis to the Michelin Pilot Sport AS4s. I started feeling the vibration a bit more but still in the upper 80s to 90mph. Recently, I had a bad suspension creak and the service center replaced the LH Aft Lower Front Suspension Link and did a 4 wheel alignment. I got the car back and the vibration is significantly worse...now you can feel it pretty much every time you are creeping up above 80mph.
Tesla initially blamed it on the tires but I've got the tires road forced to acceptable road force values (15lbs for left and 19lbs for right) but the vibration is still awful. So this led me to check in on this thread to see if anyone has actually gotten Tesla to fix this. I'm afraid I'll have to take it back into service and they're going to have no clue what to do here. I've got close to 50k miles on the car so warranty is about out.
Tesla initially blamed it on the tires but I've got the tires road forced to acceptable road force values (15lbs for left and 19lbs for right) but the vibration is still awful. So this led me to check in on this thread to see if anyone has actually gotten Tesla to fix this. I'm afraid I'll have to take it back into service and they're going to have no clue what to do here. I've got close to 50k miles on the car so warranty is about out.
[Solution Found] I have the exactly the same issue after change to a new set of good year eagle sports all season 21 inch on my ms plaid. The smoother the road the more you can feel the shake above 80mph. I went though countless times of rebalance in 5 different tire shops (and did many times road force too).
Initially I though it was the tire out round, used the satisfactory warranty to change to a new set. Same problem. Then I though it might be the foam came lose inside so reinstalled the tires after ripped off the foam (noticeable road noise increase btw not worth it) . Problem still persist. Then complained again and exchanged to a 3rd set. the problem still didn't go away. Went to service center, test drove with a technician, verified the problem. After a day, they told they checked the suspension and brake (I told them some people say it might be the brake issue, brake drag or something, so I asked them to check the brakes) and nothing breaks. And then the SC said the shake is normal and within spec (LOL). Despite the fact that they verified the problem and didn't fix anything, they still wanted to charge me over $300 just to look at things. I refused to pay and told them, either you said this is normal and refuse to take it in, or admitting there's problem but didn't fix it. Either way I shouldn't pay. Then they called the service center manager to wave the charge. The manager then went on a test drive with me said he think it's still the balance problem despite I told him I did balance countless times already. He said he will personally do it for me right after the test drive. And... he fix it.
So the nuance here is that there are 2 types of balance: static and dynamic. Static assumes the wheel is a ring and the counter weight is put in the middle of the width of the wheel. Dynamic assumes the wheel is a roller so it needs to balance the inner rim and outer rim separately. Static is cheap, easy and fast, so most tire shops use it. You can probably get away with most of the thin wheels and tires on the market. But the new model s tire goes as wide as 295 in the back, it's definitely too wide to assume it's a ring. The mass is spread so far apart that the static balance can't balance both sides at once. The inner and outer rim needs to balanced separately.
Apparently most of the balancing machine is capable doing dynamic balancing with a mode change. The tire shops are just too lazy or untrained to realize for this wide tires they need to do dynamic balancing.
Initially I though it was the tire out round, used the satisfactory warranty to change to a new set. Same problem. Then I though it might be the foam came lose inside so reinstalled the tires after ripped off the foam (noticeable road noise increase btw not worth it) . Problem still persist. Then complained again and exchanged to a 3rd set. the problem still didn't go away. Went to service center, test drove with a technician, verified the problem. After a day, they told they checked the suspension and brake (I told them some people say it might be the brake issue, brake drag or something, so I asked them to check the brakes) and nothing breaks. And then the SC said the shake is normal and within spec (LOL). Despite the fact that they verified the problem and didn't fix anything, they still wanted to charge me over $300 just to look at things. I refused to pay and told them, either you said this is normal and refuse to take it in, or admitting there's problem but didn't fix it. Either way I shouldn't pay. Then they called the service center manager to wave the charge. The manager then went on a test drive with me said he think it's still the balance problem despite I told him I did balance countless times already. He said he will personally do it for me right after the test drive. And... he fix it.
So the nuance here is that there are 2 types of balance: static and dynamic. Static assumes the wheel is a ring and the counter weight is put in the middle of the width of the wheel. Dynamic assumes the wheel is a roller so it needs to balance the inner rim and outer rim separately. Static is cheap, easy and fast, so most tire shops use it. You can probably get away with most of the thin wheels and tires on the market. But the new model s tire goes as wide as 295 in the back, it's definitely too wide to assume it's a ring. The mass is spread so far apart that the static balance can't balance both sides at once. The inner and outer rim needs to balanced separately.
Apparently most of the balancing machine is capable doing dynamic balancing with a mode change. The tire shops are just too lazy or untrained to realize for this wide tires they need to do dynamic balancing.
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