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Jim J
Member
I prefer Adams polishes interior cleaner for all surfaces except the screen and leather seats.
Adam's Total Interior Detailer 16oz | Interior Cleaner and Dressing | Adam's Polishes
I use most of their products.
Love their detail spray and use their wheel cleaner, tire and rubber cleaner, VTR dressing for tires and just checked out their undercarriage spray which is great.
Adam's Total Interior Detailer 16oz | Interior Cleaner and Dressing | Adam's Polishes
I use most of their products.
Love their detail spray and use their wheel cleaner, tire and rubber cleaner, VTR dressing for tires and just checked out their undercarriage spray which is great.
Jim J
Member
None for me, but I've only had my car since May. Haven't seen anyone else on the forum complain about it. I also thought the soft paint thing was a myth, but I haven't really looked into it that much.
Do you use microfiber clothes to clean the inside? Do you recommend any sponges for the outside?
steve841
Active Member
Microfiber with water .. interior.
Sponge and Dawn dish detergent ... exterior then a "wax as you dry" ...
Sponge and Dawn dish detergent ... exterior then a "wax as you dry" ...
Also, never ever put your microfibers in the dryer!
I use CarPro's Reset and a microfiber mitt to wash (using 2 bucket method). This was recommended for both my old 60 that had CQuartz Finest coating, and for my new 90D that has GTechniq Crystal Serum applied. It doesn't take much, and it works great. I dry with my electric leaf blower, it really gets all the water out of the nooks and crannies so there's no drippage later. I've also got some GTechniq C2V3 I just ordered that I plan to dilute 1:3 with water and apply to help keep it shedding dirt and water. A friend of mine uses 1:6 as a detail spray.
For my tires, I love CarPro's PERL, which can be used on multiple things depending how dilute - PERL=Plastic, Engine, Rubber, Leather. I love that you can make your tires as glossy as you like just by how much water you add.
Their stuff is pretty inexpensive but effective, and it lasts forever.
I use CarPro's Reset and a microfiber mitt to wash (using 2 bucket method). This was recommended for both my old 60 that had CQuartz Finest coating, and for my new 90D that has GTechniq Crystal Serum applied. It doesn't take much, and it works great. I dry with my electric leaf blower, it really gets all the water out of the nooks and crannies so there's no drippage later. I've also got some GTechniq C2V3 I just ordered that I plan to dilute 1:3 with water and apply to help keep it shedding dirt and water. A friend of mine uses 1:6 as a detail spray.
For my tires, I love CarPro's PERL, which can be used on multiple things depending how dilute - PERL=Plastic, Engine, Rubber, Leather. I love that you can make your tires as glossy as you like just by how much water you add.
Their stuff is pretty inexpensive but effective, and it lasts forever.
What kind of sprayer are you using? I have one of those exterminator like sprayers from Amazon, does not do a great job with bugs... just light dust.. Is there a particular brand that is higher pressure?
Thx
I don't know much myself but have read a lot about car care... I'm sure you made many people spit up just now... I wonder if the soft paint is true or not...
steve841
Active Member
Exactly how I cared for my 2012 Signature Red Model S ... it was pristine when I traded it in.
No swirls, nothing. Perfect paint. https://goo.gl/photos/dHqtUyydCST7Vavc9
I simply dont fall for the advertising.
thecloud
As rhythm raced inside, the ship came alive
The drought in California caused me to give up the hose-and-bucket method of washing my car. I don't miss it. The method that replaced it can be done completely inside my garage (or while waiting at a supercharger), and doesn't get water or suds all over the floor.
I use a spray bottle filled with plain water, and a stack of microfiber towels. Starting with the roof, I clean one section at a time, completely coating it with water from the spray bottle and then using a damp microfiber towel to gently wipe up the dirt. The key word here is "gently" -- never scrub or apply any pressure to the paint, just transfer the dirt onto the cloth with a gentle mopping motion, and change the towel frequently. Once the surface feels clean and grit-free to my hand, I use a fresh microfiber towel to dry it. That drying towel then becomes my damp cleaning towel for the next section, and so on. To clean the windows (and pano roof if it's really dirty), I'll use an ammonia-free glass and surface cleaner.
With this method, I don't have to commit to washing the entire car all at once. I might only have the time or energy to clean the roof and glass areas in one session, then do the hood and fenders in another session, then the doors and wheels in a third.
I use a spray bottle filled with plain water, and a stack of microfiber towels. Starting with the roof, I clean one section at a time, completely coating it with water from the spray bottle and then using a damp microfiber towel to gently wipe up the dirt. The key word here is "gently" -- never scrub or apply any pressure to the paint, just transfer the dirt onto the cloth with a gentle mopping motion, and change the towel frequently. Once the surface feels clean and grit-free to my hand, I use a fresh microfiber towel to dry it. That drying towel then becomes my damp cleaning towel for the next section, and so on. To clean the windows (and pano roof if it's really dirty), I'll use an ammonia-free glass and surface cleaner.
With this method, I don't have to commit to washing the entire car all at once. I might only have the time or energy to clean the roof and glass areas in one session, then do the hood and fenders in another session, then the doors and wheels in a third.
What do you use on the nose, with the bugs and crap that needs more than gentle wiping?
thecloud
As rhythm raced inside, the ship came alive
More water, and patience.
Soaking the splattered guts usually makes them release their hold. If some are being stubborn, I'll use the glass/surface cleaner on the cloth and hold it on the area for 30 seconds or so before trying to wipe. Focus on small sections at a time.Removing stuck-on bird crap from the hood is a similar but longer process. I soak a washcloth-sized microfiber towel in water, fold it in quarters and place it over the spot. Then slowly pour a cup of water over the cloth and let it sit and really soak in. After an hour or so, the guano particles should be completely saturated with water and can be easily wiped up.
Once, I had a blob of some sticky sap-like residue get on the paint. To remove that, I sparingly used some "Goof-Off" solvent squirted onto a cloth. As soon as it was removed, I washed the area completely with lots of water to remove any traces of the solvent.
That's pretty much it. I'm sure there are better and more professional methods (and cleaning products) to use. I am not an expert. Also, I'm completely lax about applying wax. But this is what works for me.
I am a fanatic but I have found many uses for Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice but mostly as a detail spray. The price may seem high but it's highly concentrated, makes a lot and lasts a long time. Many detailers use this.
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theslimshadyist
Active Member
I had the Opti Coat Pro+ done today and my authorized shop gave me a little kit with a lot of samples of different products. He demonstrated the ONR technique on his vehicle and I fell in love. He said I could go to youtube to view some helpful instructional and technique videos. When I asked him about waxing my car in the future he said it wasn't needed since I had the Opti Coat Pro+ application done. I was a little skeptical when he told me this but if true, this is a huge bonus
Can anyone confirm that this is the case?
theslimshadyist
Active Member
Weird. I've owned a couple of German cars with very high miles and the paint still in amazing shape for the age. The car I sold to make room for the P85 had 235k on it and the original paint was in generally quite good shape.
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