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What is the problem with error BMS_f036?

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Just an update. I was able to determine it was my rear motor. I removed my hv rapid splitter to test what codes came up and got a rapid splitter error. (Didn’t snap a pic but was a 126 code if I remember) something about branch connection in rapid splitter not connected, went through all the hv component that have resistance in them. (60 ohms in front,rear motor, charger) I can get the code bms_f036 to go away when disconnects the rear motor from the hvil and use 60 ohms resistor. Now to find and order a motor and see what happens. I’ll keen you posted.
 
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Just an update. I was able to determine it was my rear motor. I removed my hv rapid splitter to test what codes came up and got a rapid splitter error. (Didn’t snap a pic but was a 126 code if I remember) something about branch connection in rapid splitter not connected, went through all the hv component that have resistance in them. (60 ohms in front,rear motor, charger) I can get the code bms_f036 to go away when disconnects the rear motor from the hvil and use 60 ohms resistor. Now to find and order a motor and see what happens. I’ll keen you posted.
Thanks for the update,

Did you receive more errors when disconnected the rear motor?
 
FINALLY got my motor shipped. Had some bad luck with weather and the freight company but finally arrived. Even better, it fixed my bms_f036 issues. Still a little more body work to do but can charge/heater and ac work and hv connectors doing their thing.
 

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Olen ratkaissut ongelman. Se johtui siitä, että korkeajännitteisen nopean haaraliittimen korkeajännitelukitusnasta ei voinut ottaa yhteyttä alempaan pistorasiaan. Olen korvannut sen. Kiitos paljon.

Hi,

This is just to tell you guys that I already fixed my car, that's a really good news! :)

It only took a little push on the upper side of the HV branch connector (rapid mate) to "accomodate" the blades and pins on the battery pack, inmediatelly BMS_w126 and BMS_f036 disappeared,..

Instead of the fatal faults disappeared, the car still has some warnings that need attention for a later analysis,

Best regards and thanks for your help!

JC
Hi. What is location of this connector? I have same problem
 
Model x rapid splitter is located on the drive side rear end. You will have to remove your rear driver side tire and will see the orange hv wires coming from an aluminum block that’s attacked to the top/rear part of the battery.

@JCM_76
I believe he has a model s so would know better then I. But I would assume it’s in the same spot as the model x or under the rear seat. Could also be set to passenger side rear too as well. Good luck.
 
Model x rapid splitter is located on the drive side rear end. You will have to remove your rear driver side tire and will see the orange hv wires coming from an aluminum block that’s attacked to the top/rear part of the battery.

@JCM_76
I believe he has a model s so would know better then I. But I would assume it’s in the same spot as the model x or under the rear seat. Could also be set to passenger side rear too as well. Good luck.
Yes i have model s 2016 dual motor. I tried to look under the rear sear but theres only charger. Do you have a picture at it? I cant find it.
 
Mallin x pikajakaja sijaitsee vetopuolen takapäässä. Sinun on irrotettava kuljettajan puolen takarengas ja oranssit hv-johdot tulevat alumiinilohkosta, joka on hyökännyt akun ylä-/takaosaan.

@JCM_76
Uskon, että hänellä on malli s, joten hän tietäisi paremmin kuin minä. Mutta olettaisin, että se on samassa paikassa kuin malli x tai takaistuimen alla. Voidaan asettaa myös matkustajan puolelle taakse. Onnea.
 
Is this the problem?
The pins look pretty clean with little to no arc spots. Look like any water got under the boot? Sometimes that isn’t pushed in hard enough or lined up great.sometimes take a pry bar and pushing “firmly” not hard on it will push it in the full 100% in it needs to go in. I know the original posted replaced their rapid splitter (rapid mate) to fix their problem. I would try resetting the connect back on with some firm pressure first before replacing the whole thing.
 
The pins look pretty clean with little to no arc spots. Look like any water got under the boot? Sometimes that isn’t pushed in hard enough or lined up great.sometimes take a pry bar and pushing “firmly” not hard on it will push it in the full 100% in it needs to go in. I know the original posted replaced their rapid splitter (rapid mate) to fix their problem. I would try resetting the connect back on with some firm pressure first before replacing the whole thing.
This picture is loaned at web. I cant find my connector. I see it goes throuht the rear seat/back but where? I tookes tires off but still cant see it?
 
This picture is loaned at web. I cant find my connector. I see it goes throuht the rear seat/back but where? I tookes tires off but still cant see it?
I’ll snap a better picture of mine when I get home today. You will have to remove the inner fender liner as well to complete see into the underneath. You will see the subframe(picture), it will be located in front of subframe pretty tight in there. You can see in second picture where my hv lines go
 

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This picture is loaned at web. I cant find my connector. I see it goes throuht the rear seat/back but where? I tookes tires off but still cant see it?
You will def have to drop the sun frame with the 4 bolts.(two on each side). You may be able to get a small pry bar in where my finger is pointing to get to it. This is my 17 MX so the MS may be a little different
 

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hello guys. does anyone can chip in and tell me what you think about the problem here?
the model 3 ‘18 stopped in the middle of the road and had to tow it. long time ago the pyrofuse and courtain airbags were replaced due to left side crash (only door replaced) then after taking it to tesla they said battery is damaged and needs 14k$ for ir because I replaced the pyrofuse and now they dont cover it under warranty. after several back and forth they said the “components” and not fixable so I need to pay for a whole battery pack. the issue here is the HVIL but I cant seems to find where is it. I have the HVP_w026HvilFault. please look at the pic and let me know what you think. I have no current voltage to the 12v battery from the BMS.
I checked pyrofuse and is good, fuses inside the penthouse for compressor heater etc are good….. bad conpressor? bad BMS? how to test it?
thank you in advance for any help
 

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hello guys. does anyone can chip in and tell me what you think about the problem here?
the model 3 ‘18 stopped in the middle of the road and had to tow it. long time ago the pyrofuse and courtain airbags were replaced due to left side crash (only door replaced) then after taking it to tesla they said battery is damaged and needs 14k$ for ir because I replaced the pyrofuse and now they dont cover it under warranty. after several back and forth they said the “components” and not fixable so I need to pay for a whole battery pack. the issue here is the HVIL but I cant seems to find where is it. I have the HVP_w026HvilFault. please look at the pic and let me know what you think. I have no current voltage to the 12v battery from the BMS.
I checked pyrofuse and is good, fuses inside the penthouse for compressor heater etc are good….. bad conpressor? bad BMS? how to test it?
thank you in advance for any help

Maybe you get more reactions in the Model 3 subforum.
Think your HVIL output voltage is also kind of high, I added screenshot of an healthy HVIL.

20240330_171044.jpg


After DI rear in your print screen shows red, what happens with HVIL voltage when you pull the low voltage DI rear connector?
 
Hi Gtech thank you for the reply. I will try that today, removing one by one the connectors to see which one gives me spikes on voltage and which one doesnt. I think the high voltage is due to one component not workin(disconnected). I bench tested the HV contactors and they are good, I replaced the AC compressor long time ago for an used one…. maybe thats the problem however I would be very surprised if after spending 1300$ for an “evaluation” at testa the problem is the compressor when they said is a battery pack issue. by the way, they refused to give me the report of their findings no matter how many times I ask.
 
error fixed, car is back to normal now. well, when I opened the penthouse the first time I checked the pyrofuse and was good, however I saw some melting plastic on it. continuity was good, but I didnt check omhs, so just to make sure I bought a new one and installed it. my car was still not working and I had a very olddddd 2020 software unable to update because no wifi inside garage, anyways, after dealing with this for so long I decided to put back the lid of the penthouse to “see” if the software will give me more info in the HVIL test, well, as soon I put the lid, the car closed the contactors and fixed all the errors. so next time you are having HVIL errors, make sure your lid is closed :)