Tesla model 3 No power [ Service center wont work on it]

[user id adam]

Hey everyone I'm the new guy here and I'm not very smart when it comes to Ev's. In fact I bought a 21' Tesla model 3 SR+ and has yet to move under its own power If that says anything. I have spent 2 months trying to work on this thing and just keep getting hurdle after hurdle. Here's the deal with it It will not let me use any high voltage from the battery, not to drive, not to charge and not for AC which is typical of the HVIL system knowing there's a problem. I have two main error codes in the BMS system which are BMS_a107 and BMS_a171. Basically in testing the two sides of my pack One test at 179 volts and the other side test at 178 volts and I believe the one error is because it has mismatched power between the packs. I was going to do a battery health test to drain everything and let the BMS essentially equalize out the parts however I need under 50% SOC for that to happen and I am at 51.5% go figure. Given that I can't charge it I thought maybe I can manually charge half of the battery to 179 so it would at least be equal but I don't know what kind of charger or variable power supply I would use to do that. Or, somehow drain the one side to match. The kicker is and for those who are going to say you should bring this to the SC, I already did and because the dummies that transported it used a forklift and put a small dent in the bottom of the battery that I never noticed, Tesla did notice and now they will not touch it until I replace a battery which I'm not going to do if possible. Long story short I'm currently upside down in this car and I'm almost at the point where I could have bought a new one at the same cost and I've had a very bad experience and I just want to get this thing to work for a first time EV to test out to see if I like it before ordering the stupid cybertruck that may never come out or maybe it will I don't know. Any and all help is appreciated thanks in advance

 

[rpiotro]

Something odd about this whole story. You say it never moved under its own power. Did you buy it used?

Don't tell me this is a salvage vehicle.

 

[brkaus]

Sounds like a salvage. Who moves their cars around with a forklift?

 

[Chisale]

Yes, sounds like a salvage to me too. And that a large portion of the HV battery is badly damaged and the BMS has locked it out so as to eliminate a tragedy from happening. Aka the car burning up in an uncontrollable fire. Don't try to manually do anything to the high voltage battery or you could burn down your house and/or garage or be killed. Sometimes buying salvaged cars works out and turn into interesting and lucrative projects, sometimes you lose butt. I'd cut my losses and either replace the HV battery like they recommend or sell it for what you can.

 

[one2many]

WOW bummer dude.

 

[jjrandorin]

The summary of the story the OP posted is:

1. Bought a 2021 SR+ that has, in their own words "never moved under its own power"
2. After being unable to determine why, the OP took it to a service center.
3. For some reason, this transport to a service center involved the car being moved by forklift, and this carriage by forklift dented the battery
4. SC wont touch it (supposedly because of dent on battery)
5. OP is upside down on the car from a financial perspective

If this car is not salvage, I would be very (very) surprised. Tesla saying they wont work on it until the battery is replaced is likely because its salvage, and they are unwilling to even do the salvage battery inspection because of of visible damage.

It sounds to me like the OP should cut their losses and dump the car (taking whatever financial loss they have currently incurred)

 

[user id adam]

Yes the car was a former salvage car. Which is where I would assume the forklift damage occurred.

 

[mongo]

Hey everyone I'm the new guy here and I'm not very smart when it comes to Ev's. In fact I bought a 21' Tesla model 3 SR+ and has yet to move under its own power If that says anything. I have spent 2 months trying to work on this thing and just keep getting hurdle after hurdle. Here's the deal with it It will not let me use any high voltage from the battery, not to drive, not to charge and not for AC which is typical of the HVIL system knowing there's a problem. I have two main error codes in the BMS system which are BMS_a107 and BMS_a171. Basically in testing the two sides of my pack One test at 179 volts and the other side test at 178 volts and I believe the one error is because it has mismatched power between the packs. I was going to do a battery health test to drain everything and let the BMS essentially equalize out the parts however I need under 50% SOC for that to happen and I am at 51.5% go figure. Given that I can't charge it I thought maybe I can manually charge half of the battery to 179 so it would at least be equal but I don't know what kind of charger or variable power supply I would use to do that. Or, somehow drain the one side to match. The kicker is and for those who are going to say you should bring this to the SC, I already did and because the dummies that transported it used a forklift and put a small dent in the bottom of the battery that I never noticed, Tesla did notice and now they will not touch it until I replace a battery which I'm not going to do if possible. Long story short I'm currently upside down in this car and I'm almost at the point where I could have bought a new one at the same cost and I've had a very bad experience and I just want to get this thing to work for a first time EV to test out to see if I like it before ordering the stupid cybertruck that may never come out or maybe it will I don't know. Any and all help is appreciated thanks in advance

I think the a171 means that the sum of the brick voltages is different from the reading across the modules. 1+1+1+1 = 6
Which may be due to the a107 error which I think indicates one if the stacks is missing/ not reporting.

 

[Adam3]

I just want to get this thing to work for a first time EV to test out to see if I like it before ordering the stupid cybertruck that may never come out or maybe it will I don't know.

 

[brainhouston]

179+178=357, sounds like a healthy voltage for 51%...
I wouldn't touch anything regarding trying to charge it. i don't think 1v diff for half the pack is whats causing issues
If u insist on balancing it, u might be better off to drain 1v from 179v side, something like 2 household light bulbs in series... u need ~200v load...
U need to find what causing those 2 errors, which sounds like maybe sense wire is broken somewhere
Sense wires should be on top of battery so don't think bottom forklift damage will cause it
What was the damage to the car when u bought it?
Try posting in Salvage Owners support thread in Model S forum.

 

[user id adam]

that was a joke but I did see this earlier. haha

 

[user id adam]

179+178=357, sounds like a healthy voltage for 51%...
I wouldn't touch anything regarding trying to charge it. i don't think 1v diff for half the pack is whats causing issues
If u insist on balancing it, u might be better off to drain 1v from 179v side, something like 2 household light bulbs in series... u need ~200v load...
U need to find what causing those 2 errors, which sounds like maybe sense wire is broken somewhere
Sense wires should be on top of battery so don't think bottom forklift damage will cause it
What was the damage to the car when u bought it?
Try posting in Salvage Owners support thread in Model S forum.

I am actually guessing about the forklift. the initial damage was someone (i think) jumped a curb or hit something in the road because it damaged the two wheels on passenger side, which also is where the bump on the pack is) but where the bump is, it has light black plastic rubbed on it from whatever the object was and rubs off with your finger like a bumper mark would. the damage is literally almost unnoticeable except from the right angle but I undstand why tesla has made the choice to be safe. Again i ordered the triangle door stopper on reveal day but since i never have done electric, i thought this would be a cheap test.....obviously not

 

[user id adam]

I think the a171 means that the sum of the brick voltages is different from the reading across the modules. 1+1+1+1 = 6
Which may be due to the a107 error which I think indicates one if the stacks is missing/ not reporting.

this is great info thank you

 

[user id adam]

this is great info thank you

also should this read 1+1+1+1=3?

 

[mongo]

also should this read 1+1+1+1=3?

Hard to say since I don't know if the stack was over or under.
With the pair of errors it may be 1+1+1+1=SNA

 

[Enkhe]

Hey everyone I'm the new guy here and I'm not very smart when it comes to Ev's. In fact I bought a 21' Tesla model 3 SR+ and has yet to move under its own power If that says anything. I have spent 2 months trying to work on this thing and just keep getting hurdle after hurdle. Here's the deal with it It will not let me use any high voltage from the battery, not to drive, not to charge and not for AC which is typical of the HVIL system knowing there's a problem. I have two main error codes in the BMS system which are BMS_a107 and BMS_a171. Basically in testing the two sides of my pack One test at 179 volts and the other side test at 178 volts and I believe the one error is because it has mismatched power between the packs. I was going to do a battery health test to drain everything and let the BMS essentially equalize out the parts however I need under 50% SOC for that to happen and I am at 51.5% go figure. Given that I can't charge it I thought maybe I can manually charge half of the battery to 179 so it would at least be equal but I don't know what kind of charger or variable power supply I would use to do that. Or, somehow drain the one side to match. The kicker is and for those who are going to say you should bring this to the SC, I already did and because the dummies that transported it used a forklift and put a small dent in the bottom of the battery that I never noticed, Tesla did notice and now they will not touch it until I replace a battery which I'm not going to do if possible. Long story short I'm currently upside down in this car and I'm almost at the point where I could have bought a new one at the same cost and I've had a very bad experience and I just want to get this thing to work for a first time EV to test out to see if I like it before ordering the stupid cybertruck that may never come out or maybe it will I don't know. Any and all help is appreciated thanks in advance

Hi did solve the BMS issue? I had same issue on 2022 M3