You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Gotcha...I've heard the same and probably the right way to do the math...but i don't see me driving the car when it registers 0%...so i guess we are talking "effective" range vs "max anxiety" range, LOL.75000/251=299 miles. The battery may show 0% after 72.5 KWH, but my understand is that there is still at least 2.5 KWH left. I believe the range is based off 75 KWH.
Elevation, wind and speed are the factors to consider for highway driving. Drag on the car goes up dramatically beyond 70 mph. Starts to climb at 60.I'm lost because I don't drive fast and I'm in Mass and I'm at 318. What am I doing wrong? I do mostly highway driving
75000/251=299 miles. The battery may show 0% after 72.5 KWH, but my understand is that there is still at least 2.5 KWH left. I believe the range is based off 75 KWH.
The EPA rated range is based on the EPA driving cycle. Almost no one actually drives that. So Most of us switch the display to battery % charge and leave it. On a long trip (multiple superchargers) use nav and follow the instructions on the screen as far as stopping at superchargers and especially slowing down if needed. You'll be fine.
Main impact on range is tire type and pressure then speed. Here in Tx we have some 75 and 80 mph speed limits. My Model 3 (without the summer tires) can go only about 200 mi at those speeds before I need to charge.
Isn't that what you get on the energy consumption chart? On a trip I keep that up and it shows whether I'm doing better (above the estimate line) or worse (below the estimate line) and what I'll have left when I arrive.Yeah. I actually leave mine on miles, but you’re right that the only number I ever really care about is the estimated percentage at next charge location.
I wish that Tesla gave us options to make that more prominent, and I’d love to have a comparison on the energy screen between what I’m actually using and what the profile they generated that arrival number from expects me to be using, so I can see how I’m doing in real time.
Isn't that what you get on the energy consumption chart? On a trip I keep that up and it shows whether I'm doing better (above the estimate line) or worse (below the estimate line) and what I'll have left when I arrive.
This is what we've got so far, 305Wh/mi. It's weird seeing such a difference from the SR+ that I drive vs her Model Y (AWD LR). She's been doing mostly highway driving here in Las Vegas where it's been about 100*F+ since we took delivery on 4 June. Most of that highway driving is above the 65mph speed limit...you'll get run over here in Vegas if you do 65 so we mostly drive about 75mph+
I think with the heat, mostly highway and higher speeds it's not too bad for an AWD on Gemini's. I do need to get all the tire psi's corrected but "cold" here has been like 75*F at 5am. I had to delete the token for TeslaFi because sleep settings just weren't working properly even though they mirrored my Model 3. Also, we've been having weird losses while plugged in on it's own 240V at home...
Mines did too at first, now I’m at 313 and climbing, it’s 316 milesFriend got a new TMY this afternoon, and supercharged to full. Should it show 310 like my TM3 does? I thought the Model Y got 315 for range (at least when new).
Do you have your sleep settings set properly? I don’t believe it should be draining that much range…I had to disable my TeslaFi, it was draining over a mile per hour of range..
Are you referring to elevation change or just elevation itself?Elevation, wind and speed are the factors to consider for highway driving. Drag on the car goes up dramatically beyond 70 mph. Starts to climb at 60.
Cold relating to tire pressures means ambient temperature or not being driven for about 8 hours.
FWIW I run mine at 46 psi. I've seen 50 psi in warm weather when hiway driving. That's OK.
The tire pressure on the sidewall is max COLD. It says so.