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What to do when Power Frunk Completely Fails to Open?

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Don't let frunk not opening scare you away from having power frunk, my frunk was pretty much useless without it. With or without power frunk, I have had issues opening it during extreme cold conditions. My only advice, due to bad emergency cable design, DO NOT USE it unless it's really necessary. If the frunk failed to open, just find ways to melt the ice that is preventing the frunk from opening.


FYI: For anyone following or having this issue with EVOffer auto frunk - they just recently an update to the firmware . See email below from Warren of EVOffer:

"A new firmware update is now available for our Electric Frunk system. This update is applicable to our Electric Frunk systems for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y and introduces a new feature that prevents the frunk from getting stuck, even when the latch motor is malfunctioning.

Here is the details of the firmware update:
2023-03 Firmware Update for Electric Frunk

We strongly recommend installing the firmware update. If you are not sure about which firmware to use, please contact our tech support team on Telegram:
EVOffer Support"
 
I have exactly same issue on 21 Model 3. The frunk worked for about a year and quit on me. It's completely stuck. Pulling on the release cable doesn't seem to do anything. Would someone be able to help and point to the video that shows how to pop the frunk with the use of pliers? Once I get inside the frunk I am going to remove this crappy kit from Hanshow and go back to the original set up. It's a very nice feature to have but not worth the risk. Just imagine having bags with groceries stuck in the frunk for days!
 
UPDATE: to all who plan to install the Hanshow (and EVOffer) electronic frunk kit, make sure to seal the motor and control box unit as much as you can. I'd also try to seal all of electric connectors. Use electric tape, zip lock bags, whatever else you may think of to prevent moisture getting into those units. This is a major problem with these kits. I just removed a failed Hanshow kit and the motor had water inside. Same happened with the control box about a month ago. These things are not water proof at all. And I live in San Diego where it doesn't rain that much so I can only imagine what snow, heavy rain and ice does to these systems.
 
Here is a picture of what the inside of the motor looks like after about 18 months of usage in dry Souther California climate.
IMG_0827.jpeg
 
UPDATE: to all who plan to install the Hanshow (and EVOffer) electronic frunk kit, make sure to seal the motor and control box unit as much as you can. I'd also try to seal all of electric connectors. Use electric tape, zip lock bags, whatever else you may think of to prevent moisture getting into those units. This is a major problem with these kits. I just removed a failed Hanshow kit and the motor had water inside. Same happened with the control box about a month ago. These things are not water proof at all. And I live in San Diego where it doesn't rain that much so I can only imagine what snow, heavy rain and ice does to these systems.
Do you know if the failed module is a v5 or v4 version? I think that’s when they claimed it started being waterproof
 
I think this is version 4 that came out of my 2021 M3SR. With version 5 they have a different control box that seems to be slightly better sealed. But the motor is still very much exposed even with V5. I have two of these systems on my MY and MS and I am thinking of going back and trying to seal every component. Additionally, I plan to route the cable that goes from the Hanshow motor to the latch closer to the wheel on the drivers side so I can cut it in case if the system stops working. The 'emergency release cable' doesn't seem to do a damn thing. Honestly, the design of these systems is not very good and it might be a bit of a ticking bomb.
 
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I think this is version 4 that came out of my 2021 M3SR. With version 5 they have a different control box that seems to be slightly better sealed. But the motor is still very much exposed even with V5. I have two of these systems on my MY and MS and I am thinking of going back and trying to seal every component. Additionally, I plan to route the cable that goes from the Hanshow motor to the latch closer to the wheel on the drivers side so I can cut it in case if the system stops working. The 'emergency release cable' doesn't seem to do a damn thing. Honestly, the design of these systems is not very good and it might be a bit of a ticking bomb.
I just bought the v5 evOffer version and I’ll send you some pics when I get it. Hopefully they fixed it
 
I think both EVOffer and Hansshow sell exactly same system. One company is located in mainland China and the other is in Hong Kong.
Yes I think so too. Every single auto frunk comapny uses the parts out of a single factory. The only difference is the software inside. However what's curious is that there's only one bad review of the evOffer versionthat I could find online while there's hundreds of bad reviews for hanshow throughout amazon and on this website.
 
A related question--as I think about it, why is a latch motor necessary at all? In a non-modified, manual mode, the car can release the hood when opening and latch the hood on closing.

Without the latch motor, the workflow would be--driver commands open hood, car unlatch frunk (OE parts), power struts push the hood open. Driver commands close hood, power struts pulls down the hood, the OE latch catches the hood.

Maybe it's because the struts at that angle cannot push the hood down hard enough to engage the latch on closing? Perhaps that is the only reason for the latch motor?

Just curious.
 
A related question--as I think about it, why is a latch motor necessary at all? In a non-modified, manual mode, the car can release the hood when opening and latch the hood on closing.

Without the latch motor, the workflow would be--driver commands open hood, car unlatch frunk (OE parts), power struts push the hood open. Driver commands close hood, power struts pulls down the hood, the OE latch catches the hood.

Maybe it's because the struts at that angle cannot push the hood down hard enough to engage the latch on closing? Perhaps that is the only reason for the latch motor?

Just curious.
The OE latch does not have the force/mechanism to pull the hood down.

The powered struts (non-OE) also does not have enough force to latch down the hood - hence the need for the motor to latch the hood down.

See this GiF with the motor pulling down the latch to close.
20210115_200219_IMG_8059_1.gif
 
UPDATE: to all who plan to install the Hanshow (and EVOffer) electronic frunk kit, make sure to seal the motor and control box unit as much as you can. I'd also try to seal all of electric connectors. Use electric tape, zip lock bags, whatever else you may think of to prevent moisture getting into those units. This is a major problem with these kits. I just removed a failed Hanshow kit and the motor had water inside. Same happened with the control box about a month ago. These things are not water proof at all. And I live in San Diego where it doesn't rain that much so I can only imagine what snow, heavy rain and ice does to these systems.
Can I ask how were you able to get inside? Do you have a video of the emergency latch? Thx
 
Can I ask how were you able to get inside? Do you have a video of the emergency latch? Thx

I'm not @AlexSD, but based on his picture, it looks like the motor is screwed together (i.e., he unscrewed the case or drilled out the rivet). Also, there are plenty of YouTube videos showing the emergency latch.

By the way, my understanding is that the latch simply disconnects the motor so that the frunk can be opened manually, it does not open the frunk.
 
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Can I ask how were you able to get inside? Do you have a video of the emergency latch? Thx
Getting inside is not a trivial task so be ready to spend at least an hour taking things apart and have a pair of good cable cutters handy. Here is a step by step instruction (sorry, no video):

1. Lift up the front of the car by using floor jack and special rubber pucks that one must use before lifting the car to avoid the battery damage. If you search Amazon for 'Tesla pucks' you will see dozens of them there.
2. Take off the front wheel on the driver's side.
3. Remove wheel arch liner but pulling out about 6 plastic clips. You should be able to reuse those when reinstalling the liner.
4. Remove plastic cover on the bottom of the front bumper cover - there are approximately 10 plastic clips that hold it in place and attach to the front bumper lip.
5. Remove 10mm nut located in the corner of the bumper cover at the wheel well (use a flashlight to see it better as it's somewhat hidden in plain view).
6. Pull down the plastic cover
7. Use lights and you should be able to see various components of the aftermarket mechanism. You may be able to see the aftermarket motor and control box but it depends where you mounted those.
8. You can also feel the cable going from the motor to the latch. Pull hard on that cable several times and the frunk should pop slightly. Press 'open the frunk' icon in the app or the car's screen. The funk should pop even more and you should be able to pry it carefully with your hands and pop it open.
9. if step 8 doesn't work, use good cable cutters and just make the cut between the motor and the latch. It should release the cable tension and free up the latch. Use the app to open the frunk.
10. Remove the aftermarket components and throw them in the garbage. Reinstall factory struts and brackets.
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
 
Agreed! Its the cold weather. And the emergency release cable is a bad design. You really need to pull it hard, up to the point of breaking to make it work.
Work around for now, don't use it if the weather is below freezing point. And try not use the emergency cable, it will more likely jammed the latch mechanism.

Don't let frunk not opening scare you away from having power frunk, my frunk was pretty much useless without it. With or without power frunk, I have had issues opening it during extreme cold conditions. My only advice, due to bad emergency cable design, DO NOT USE it unless it's really necessary. If the frunk failed to open, just find ways to melt the ice that is preventing the frunk from opening.
Bad news for my frunk, it's now summer and my frunk won't open again. The last time it won't open it just suddenly popped open while I'm on the highway and because of this, I just tapped the hood for additional safety measure.
All I could here was 2 clicks coming from the latch and slight movement around the actuators area .
 

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Bad news for my frunk, it's now summer and my frunk won't open again. The last time it won't open it just suddenly popped open while I'm on the highway and because of this, I just tapped the hood for additional safety measure.
All I could here was 2 clicks coming from the latch and slight movement around the actuators area .

Did you get this fixed? What caused it? Keep us posted.
 
Did you get this fixed? What caused it? Keep us posted.
Soft closed motor failed. It failed at the position with the cable pulling the latch down. Emergency release cable was also useless because the motor is worm gear type thus it won't move at all.
Had to remove fender plastic liner and plastic panel under the bumper to reach the soft close motor cable and cut it, the frunk popped open right away.
I removed everything and return to original manual frunk.
 
Soft closed motor failed. It failed at the position with the cable pulling the latch down. Emergency release cable was also useless because the motor is worm gear type thus it won't move at all.
Had to remove fender plastic liner and plastic panel under the bumper to reach the soft close motor cable and cut it, the frunk popped open right away.
I removed everything and return to original manual frunk.

Do you still have the failed motor? Can you do some Failure Analysis by opening it to see exactly what part broke? Just a picture would be fine.

If your latch is like the gif in post #32, then I can see why so many M3s are failing. The cable is on the bottom allowing water to drain into the motor.
 
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Do you still have the failed motor? Can you do some Failure Analysis by opening it to see exactly what part broke? Just a picture would be fine.

If your latch is like the gif in post #32, then I can see why so many M3s are failing. The cable is on the bottom allowing water to drain into the motor.
Post #32 matched my latch and cable stuck at cable pulled down position. The motor is dead. I applied 12 volts directly on the terminals and no movement. Checked with DMM and it's open circuit.
Opened it up and saw rust on the motor.