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Wheel spacers for Performance Model 3

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Setup in photos is 255/40/19 with 19x9+35mm wheel plus 5mm spacers. I am using the spacers as a temporary simulation of what the wheel/tire location will be when I switch to aftermarket brake rotors. Stock P3D+ rotor hat is only 2mm thick, while aftermarket rotor hat is 7mm. The car is at stock height in the photos, and the front tire is borderline on pokey. I will be lowering the car by 30mm, which will pull the top of the tire inward due to the suspension geometry.

I’ve been modding cars for 20+ years. My own experience tells me all the mod I’m doing isn’t going to cause any significant premature wear that shortens the lifespan significantly. I tend to replace wear and tear parts way before every last bit of life is squeezed out of them.

Just want to share my own actual experience.View attachment 375442View attachment 375443View attachment 375444View attachment 375445
Did you also put 5mm spacers on the rear wheels as well in these photos?
 
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Firstly, the P3D weighs less than 4,100lbs. Secondly, spacers don't change the "weight distribution", they change the scrub radius of the suspension.

As for the OP:
If you stay with ~8mm or less, you shouldn't have any negative effects. Going with something aggressive like 20mm+ will change the suspension geometry and likely shorten wheel bearing life. It will also hurt range due to more aero drag from the wheels being pushed out.

I'm currently running these 3mm spacers to clear the hub lip on my P3D. Personally, I'd recommend changing offsets with aftermarket wheels as opposed to spacers if you can.

I just bought some original Tesla model 3 19inch Sport-wheels for my Model 3 Performance for the winter. Although I think they have the extra cut-away for the hub-lip, they have an offset of 40mm compared to 35mm with the Performance 20" inch wheels. So i'm looking for 3mm spacers to correct this. Would I need other bolts for the 3mm spacers? Or is it okay to use the original bolts?
 
One more picture here from me. Side by side comparison of no spacer to 5 mm spacer.

View attachment 538376

I just bought some original Tesla model 3 19inch Sport-wheels for my Model 3 Performance for the winter. Although I think they have the extra cut-away for the hub-lip,

I don't think that is true. Assuming you have a P3D+ (e.g. non-stealth), these wheels will not work without some modifications.

So i'm looking for 3mm spacers to correct this. Would I need other bolts for the 3mm spacers? Or is it okay to use the original bolts?

Model 3 don't use "bolts" (like most German mfg), they use a stud and nut to secure the wheels to the hub. I don't believe you will experience an issue with stud length unless your spacers are >6-8mm in thickness. At that point you should really consider longer studs.
 
Setup in photos is 255/40/19 with 19x9+35mm wheel plus 5mm spacers. I am using the spacers as a temporary simulation of what the wheel/tire location will be when I switch to aftermarket brake rotors. Stock P3D+ rotor hat is only 2mm thick, while aftermarket rotor hat is 7mm. The car is at stock height in the photos, and the front tire is borderline on pokey. I will be lowering the car by 30mm, which will pull the top of the tire inward due to the suspension geometry.

I’ve been modding cars for 20+ years. My own experience tells me all the mod I’m doing isn’t going to cause any significant premature wear that shortens the lifespan significantly. I tend to replace wear and tear parts way before every last bit of life is squeezed out of them.

Just want to share my own actual experience.View attachment 375442View attachment 375443View attachment 375444View attachment 375445
Do you think 3 mm spacers will be enough? Thinking if running the exact same setup as you
 
Setup in photos is 255/40/19 with 19x9+35mm wheel plus 5mm spacers. I am using the spacers as a temporary simulation of what the wheel/tire location will be when I switch to aftermarket brake rotors. Stock P3D+ rotor hat is only 2mm thick, while aftermarket rotor hat is 7mm. The car is at stock height in the photos, and the front tire is borderline on pokey. I will be lowering the car by 30mm, which will pull the top of the tire inward due to the suspension geometry.

I’ve been modding cars for 20+ years. My own experience tells me all the mod I’m doing isn’t going to cause any significant premature wear that shortens the lifespan significantly. I tend to replace wear and tear parts way before every last bit of life is squeezed out of them.

Just want to share my own actual experience.View attachment 375442View attachment 375443View attachment 375444View attachment 375445
What's it called when the tires stick out past the wheels themselves like in your pictures? I've seen it on someone's Porsche, too. Does that also help prevent curb rash? Thinking about getting tires like that soon, if so I could probably remove the wheel bands I currently have.
 
Bumping this. Is the concensus that an 8mm spacer is safe for the M3P? I’m debating between a custom 8mm spacer with the hub lip machined versus a 12 or 15mm studded spacer. My preference width wise is the 8mm. Most resources I’ve found say 8 is safe with enough thread for the M3P. The alternative would be 5 but I think that’s probably not going to be very noticeable. Thanks.
 
This is the 20mm/25mm setup on my 2018 M3P. They're BLOX SPORT spacers and fit nicely over the lip on the hubs and countersunk to allow the stock lug studs to be used without issue. Easy to install, nice and snug, no issues and no other modifications were needed. A good, aggressive look without being overly done, IMO. Been running these for about 8 months total (had to take them off to switch over to my winter wheels/tires), no sign of hub wear but I'm not concerned about that as I can replace those myself if it comes down to it. The tires seem to be wearing evenly also.



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