Where did my 75D's acceleration go?

[Alset4S]

Sometime in the last 10 days or so the impressive, holy *sugar*, head snapping acceleration has disappeared.

I don't use it often but would like it back. It's almost like the car has been un-uncorked. Only worse.

She's a 2016 75D facelift AP2 that I picked up November 12th with 10,500 miles on the clock. The dealer had charged to 100% and range showed 259 miles so I figured it had been uncorked. The first time I floored the accelerator it was OMG.

Not anymore. Glad I didn't embarrass myself while showing her off.

Anyone have any idea what the problem might be?

Thanks

 

[PhilDavid]

Sometime in the last 10 days or so the impressive, holy *sugar*, head snapping acceleration has disappeared.

I don't use it often but would like it back. It's almost like the car has been un-uncorked. Only worse.

She's a 2016 75D facelift AP2 that I picked up November 12th with 10,500 miles on the clock. The dealer had charged to 100% and range showed 259 miles so I figured it had been uncorked. The first time I floored the accelerator it was OMG.

Not anymore. Glad I didn't embarrass myself while showing her off.

Anyone have any idea what the problem might be?

Thanks

Can you do a 0-60 run and post the results?

What's the maximum energy that you are pulling?

 

[Canuck9000]

Im going to guess it is the cold weather. Expect some noticeable power loss during winter months.

 

[Krash]

Do a performance run (0-60) recording the results on iOS PowerTools or Android Dashboard for Tesla. We can tell you if the torque or max power is off. Most likely you just got used to it.

 

[croman]

SoC matters a lot with 75D. To get the maximum amount of power, you've got to have a state of charge over 90%. That's when the 75D really goes quickly.

 

[ibdb]

Did you select "Chill Mode" or is the car in valet mode? Eliminate the obvious before moving on to the more complicated.

 

[Alset4S]

Do a performance run (0-60) recording the results on iOS PowerTools or Android Dashboard for Tesla. We can tell you if the torque or max power is off. Most likely you just got used to it.

Definitely not that I'm use to it. Don't do it often. Not sure it would beat my wife's Accord.

 

[Alset4S]

Do a performance run (0-60) recording the results on iOS PowerTools or Android Dashboard for Tesla. We can tell you if the torque or max power is off. Most likely you just got used to it.

Can't use those yet. Tesla hasn't added car to my account so no apps available.

 

[Alset4S]

Im going to guess it is the cold weather. Expect some noticeable power loss during winter months.

Don't think so 50ish here today. Was a beast when it was low 40

 

[ucmndd]

Check chill mode. Time the 0-60, even with a stopwatch, to get a rough idea of what we’re talikng about.

 

[Tanquen]

SoC matters a lot with 75D. To get the maximum amount of power, you've got to have a state of charge over 90%. That's when the 75D really goes quickly.

Is this true? It was faster for sure after the uncork but I've never had more than 50% charge.

 

[Asterix187]

Is this true? It was faster for sure after the uncork but I've never had more than 50% charge.

Do you mean you have never charged over 50%? Surely that’s not good for the battery?

 

[Tanquen]

Do you mean you have never charged over 50%? Surely that’s not good for the battery?

I wouldn't think so. Why have the 50% setting and no setting any lower if it wasn't better for the battery? I figured they stopped at 50 cuz there was no real benefit of going any lower. Speed, temperature, cycles and percent full can all be bad for the battery. That's why they make charging hundred percent full a special setting because it's really bad for the battery, takes more power to get there and keep it there. I also just charge it on the regular 120 because that's all I need and it's better for the battery. All this talk of faster and faster charging with cars and cell phones and what is not good for the battery.

 

[TSLA Pilot]

I wouldn't think so. Why have the 50% setting and no setting any lower if it wasn't better for the battery? I figured they stopped at 50 cuz there was no real benefit of going any lower. Speed, temperature, cycles and percent full can all be bad for the battery. That's why they make charging hundred percent full a special setting because it's really bad for the battery, takes more power to get there and keep it there. I also just charge it on the regular 120 because that's all I need and it's better for the battery. All this talk of faster and faster charging with cars and cell phones and what is not good for the battery.

No, no, no.

Tanquen, if you're charging with 120 volts you are actually WASTING energy. Yes, 120 volts works in a pinch, but you really want to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet for charging any Tesla over the long term.

The equation for energy loss is based on amperage. Note that power (Watts) = Volts X amps. If you charge via 240 volts your amperage drops substantially, and it's also far faster. The charging rate, relative to driving the car, is still very low and will not shorten your battery life. However, you can still limit your amps as desired (perhaps 10 or 15 amps--it will still charge overnight).

One thing to also note is you can actually feel the heat loss if your home garage wiring is exposed, perhaps in the attic? Check the heat after a charging cycle and you'll likely find the wiring almost hot to touch. Not the case with 240 wiring, especially at low amperages . . . .

 

[SSedan]

Don't think so 50ish here today. Was a beast when it was low 40

Battery is 1000lbs+ takes awhile to react to temps. If it was 25f overnight and you had only driven a few miles the pack could still be fairly cold. On the other end of things if when it was 40 you had driven a distance or supercharged the pack may have been warmer than you think.

Also the traction control is excellent, could have been clean roads before and salty now leading to traction loss and dialed back power.

On the "uncorked" 259miles that was 75d range, power uncorking was a different thing.

We also get accustomed to the power we have and a car can feel slower over time that way.

 

[ckoval7]

Why have the 50% setting and no setting any lower if it wasn't better for the battery?

You would set the charge limit to 50% if you're planning to plug in then head out of town for months at a time.
For daily driving, set it to 80% and you'll be fine. You gain nothing from setting the battery to 50%.

Speed, temperature, cycles and percent full can all be bad for the battery.

That's sorta true, but you're incredibly unlikely to hit the ranges that are actually bad.
Speed: You'd have to supercharge from a low SoC to a high SoC several times per week for the charging speed to matter.
Temperature: The car won't let the battery get hot enough for it to be bad for the battery. When it's really cold out, you'll notice a dip in performance, but drive like a normal person and you'll be fine.
Cycles: Don't worry about this, you'll be fine.
Percent Full: Don't charge to 100% and then let the battery sit there for days like that. If you're going on a long trip, time the charging so it gets to 100% around the time you want to leave. Charging to 80% on a regular basis is perfectly fine.

I also just charge it on the regular 120 because that's all I need and it's better for the battery.

This is absolutely false. Trickle charging has no real benefit to Li-Ion batteries. 40A at 240V is plenty slow enough to be divided up between the 7000ish cells in your battery pack.
Charging at 120V will make your electric bill be higher than you'd expect. Your battery pack is 300VDC and needs to be charged with a higher voltage than that. 120VAC yields about 170VDC. Doubling the voltage halves the current, and you end up with some losses in the converter circuit. 240VAC makes about 330VDC, which at that point can go straight into the battery pack.

Another good thing about hte higher charge current is that it will keep the battery warm in the winter months. If you schedule your charging to start about 4 hours before you plan on leaving, you won't have reduced regen and acceleration.

Tesla's battery management system (BMS) knows what's best for the battery and will do it's best to prevent the battery from being harmed. Set the charge limit to 80% and enjoy the car.

 

[SSedan]

The idea that 120volt 15amp I'd better because it is trickle is absurd, think of it as one cell not a pack would taking days to charge be reasonable or stupidly slow?

A 14-30 outlet is trickle charging.

 

[Alset4S]

Battery is 1000lbs+ takes awhile to react to temps. If it was 25f overnight and you had only driven a few miles the pack could still be fairly cold. On the other end of things if when it was 40 you had driven a distance or supercharged the pack may have been warmer than you think.

Also the traction control is excellent, could have been clean roads before and salty now leading to traction loss and dialed back power.

On the "uncorked" 259miles that was 75d range, power uncorking was a different thing.

We also get accustomed to the power we have and a car can feel slower over time that way.

SSedan why would they uncorked for range but not for performance at same time. Whatever was done it was before I got the car. But if it was not uncorked for performance .... Oh my. Before this issue started acceleration was very impressive.

 

[Kuhz]

What I’m more surprised at is your 2 year old Tesla still gets 259 miles to a full charge. I can barely get to 245 in my ‘17

 

[Alset4S]

What I’m more surprised at is your 2 year old Tesla still gets 259 miles to a full charge. I can barely get to 245 in my ‘17

I had never charged to 100% myself. Thinking I might have misremembered I it to full last night. 256 miles.